1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Engine Height and Prop for 1991 16SL
thegage	#1  Posted on 08/19/11 - 8:58 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 341 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/25/09	Just picked this up used. Engine is a 1992 Johnson 90HP, 20" shaft. It is mounted all the way down, and with only the top two bolts(!) used. I suspect this is because the splash well is not deep enough, and lower bolts would be blind holes in this configuration? A quick check shows the AV plate is about 1/2" below the keel line. Propeller is an aluminum Michigan Wheel that is pretty beat up from a rock strike, with some tip bending and a chunk missing (fortunately no damage to the lower end). There are no numbers on the prop relating to size that I can find. Given the 16SL's propensity for porpoising, I'm pretty sure I need to move the engine up. One hole? Two? I think this would allow installation of lower bolts? I have no idea on what to get for a replacement prop. With what's mounted I see about 5200 rpm at WOT, but who knows how accurate that is given the state of the prop. I'll see if my dealer can help pick one, but if not I suppose I can start with an aluminum prop in good shape. Suggestions? John K. John Kittredge 1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
Phil T	#2  Posted on 08/19/11 - 10:34 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	John - For the porposing take a look at this thread. You may want to get fellow 16SL owner JimmyRinaldi's input. http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...post_40546 Here is a long thread with many interesting tidbits: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum8/...02120.html I would suggest raising the motor two holes so the top bolts are in the third hole when counting down from the top. Edited by Phil T on 08/19/11 - 10:55 AM 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
thegage	#3  Posted on 08/19/11 - 1:09 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 341 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/25/09	Phil - Yes, I had seen that and have been thinking about the Smart Tabs. the only issue is that I have the swim platform on my boat, and I don't know if the tabs fit under it. I'll have to ask the mfr. John John Kittredge 1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
thegage	#4  Posted on 08/20/11 - 3:08 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 341 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/25/09	Finally figured out what the pop is by finding the serial number under some over-paint. Looks like it's a 13-1/4 x 17, so that's what I'll start with. John K. John Kittredge 1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
jimmyrinaldi	#5  Posted on 08/20/11 - 5:15 PM
Member Posts: 212 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/29/07	I can save you a lot of time... Moving your engine will not help... the 16SL is a great fun boat but has a very heavy butt... 24 gallon aft tank (as u run out of fuel the bucking will stop...) a 90hp weighs almost 300lbs mine had 2 batteries in the back as well for another 50lbs... all this weight on the back of a deep V hull 16fter with 90hp is too much.. Here is how to get a smooth ride... Get some type of trim tabs. I have 60lb smarttabs XLs I had to move my swim platform... This is the main move u need to make... a hydrofoil with not help... If u r good with wiring move your batteries to ur consoles. U will have to pull up the deck board that looks like a mirror image of the state of Oklahoma. All of the wires run right there to the starboard side of the aluminum tank. There is a run from the passenger console that is just big enough for smaller battery cables... I replaced my big marines with lighter weight smaller tractor batteries that fit in the consoles w/o removing them. I can say now that Mandarina does not porpoise ever... I have had her at a steady 40mph although she cruises more comfortably at 30mph. I am toying with the idea of powering down to a 50hp... I have just finished a bunch of work and as soon as I clean her up I will be posting new pics. Please feel free to contact me as I have done a lot of work on this model... Good Luck ! Jimmy Edited by jimmyrinaldi on 08/20/11 - 7:15 PM
thegage	#6  Posted on 08/20/11 - 6:59 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 341 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/25/09	Jimmy, I almost sent you a PM--you must be psychic! I'll probably move the engine anyway, just for efficiency's sake. Fortunately I only have one battery. I was already thinking of putting it in console. I did something similar for my 13 Sport. I really want the trim tabs, but I don't want to lose the platform as I have kids who do a lot of swimming and skiing on the boat. Is there a ladder you use as a replacement? Looking forward to seeing the new pictures. Thanks! John K. John Kittredge 1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
jimmyrinaldi	#7  Posted on 08/20/11 - 7:13 PM
Member Posts: 212 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/29/07	i moved it up by 3 inches...
thegage	#8  Posted on 08/20/11 - 7:16 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 341 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/25/09	I forgot to add: If you're looking for less weight, look at the E-TEC 60, about 240 lbs. I love my 30 on my 13 Sport. John K. John Kittredge 1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
thegage	#9  Posted on 09/29/11 - 12:46 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 341 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/25/09	Well, I finally got the time to get my engine raised. (I'll post some pics on my personal page...eventually.) I had to do it myself because my local marine shop was downright dismissive of the idea ("Engines on Whalers belong on the transom because of the hull design.". Quite easy after all, with the right tools and parts. Since the engine had originally been mounted using the lower blind holes (I see that my first post in this thread was a bit mis-informed!), the most stressful part of remounting was figuring out where to drill the new holes and then drilling them at the correct angle--the usual concerns about the splashwell. But all came together in the end, and the engine now sits two holes up. I stole some time to get out on the water and test it. Current prop is a standard OMC aluminum that I got to replace the chewed up Michigan Wheel. This brought WOT RPM down to about 47-4800, which I guess shows how much of the old prop was missing/bent! Also, in the meantime between the first post in this thread and remounting the engine I removed Doel Fins from the engine and added Smart Tabs to the hull. This seemed to bring up WOT RPM slightly but I can't swear to it. Anyway, with the new engine height I hit about 5300 RPM, with a seemingly better hole shot and better overall response. I'd llike to take the next step to an upgraded prop. From what I can deduce through investigation my best options are a 13-7/8 x 17 BRP SST (#176572), or Viper of the same Size (#763930), or a 1-1/4 x 15 Stiletto Advantage. Sound about right? John K. John Kittredge 1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
Joe Kriz	#10  Posted on 09/29/11 - 12:58 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Did the boat still porpoise with the engine raised and before adding the trim tabs? Where did you drill the lower holes according to this article? http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=82
thegage	#11  Posted on 09/29/11 - 1:20 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 341 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/25/09	The engine came with Doel Fins attached, so the boat didn't porpoise, but I hated the Fins' effect and so put on the tabs. My next test is to temporarily remove the tabs (you can do that without removing the mounts) and see how the boat performs with the new engine height. (And I'll probably find I that with a higher engine an better prop I didn't need the tabs after all!) That article was very helpful. I drilled the yellow holes, or pretty close to them. It was just far enough up from the bottom of the splashwell so that big washers could be used without modification, but not so far that I can't go down a hole if I need to. I say "splashwell," but on the 16SL the lower bolts aren't really in the splashwell. They are in a small recess under a removable cover at the bottom of the splashwell. Because of this you have to insert the lower bolts from outside the hull into the recess. I don't know enough to know if these hidden lower bolts are a typical feature of non-classic whalers. John K. Edited by thegage on 09/29/11 - 1:23 PM John Kittredge 1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
jimmyrinaldi	#12  Posted on 09/29/11 - 2:32 PM
Member Posts: 212 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/29/07	I have 4 positions on my yammy. What hole height did you mount on ? How did you seal the old holes ? I would love to see some pics. Edited by jimmyrinaldi on 09/29/11 - 2:34 PM
Joe Kriz	#13  Posted on 09/29/11 - 2:45 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Two 1/2 inch transom holes are a breeze to fix. See this article: http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=62
thegage	#14  Posted on 09/29/11 - 2:50 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 341 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/25/09	Top hole being 1, bottom hole being 4, I mounted in in hole 3. I plugged the old holes using wooden plugs and West System 655 G-Flex. I didn't bother to gel coat because the outside is covered by the engine bracket while the inside are covered by the recess cover. John K. John Kittredge 1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
Joe Kriz	#15  Posted on 09/29/11 - 2:52 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Bolt in 3rd hole would be mounted 2 holes up....... http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...cle_id=106
jimmyrinaldi	#16  Posted on 09/29/11 - 3:54 PM
Member Posts: 212 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/29/07	I would like to hear how she behaves off tabs with the new engine height. I am pretty pleased with my set up right now although I am also topping out at 4900... I would have to get something to lift my engine as well... Edited by jimmyrinaldi on 09/29/11 - 3:55 PM
Tom W Clark	#17  Posted on 09/29/11 - 7:57 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	If you use the 13-1/4" x 15" Stiletto Advantage, you can raise the motor as high as it can go ("three holes up") and you will not need the trim tabs or a foil.
thegage	#18  Posted on 09/29/11 - 8:15 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 341 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/25/09	Tom W Clark wrote: If you use the 13-1/4" x 15" Stiletto Advantage, you can raise the motor as high as it can go ("three holes up" and you will not need the trim tabs or a foil. Interesting! I've been looking for this prop on-line, and one seller told me that they aren't available at the moment because the manufacturer had a problem making them. Have you heard that? John K. John Kittredge 1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90
Tom W Clark	#19  Posted on 09/29/11 - 8:18 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	There's no problem making them, they just cannot meet the demand. The current backorder is several weeks. It's a very common prop. There are used ones on he market all the time; sometimes they are very good deals.
thegage	#20  Posted on 10/16/11 - 10:08 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 341 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/25/09	I finally picked up a used Stiletto on ebay. $98 delivered, for what looked like a very lightly used prop, just one that sat somewhere damp/salty for long enough to gather a bit of surface rust and tiny pitting in a couple spots. It cleaned up to look almost brand new. 13-1/4 x 15, Stiletto #21315, vented hub. Replaced a stock OMC 17 pitch aluminum. So, engine raised two holes up, Smart Tabs taken off, Stiletto on, here are the seat-of-the-pants results. Faster hole shot, but noticeably more bow rise. Perhaps a bit more porpoising than with the tabs, but it was a windy and rough day on the lake. Didn't really have time to test performance in turns. RPM topped out at 5300-5400, just about right. I think it's a good place to experiment with the final hole up next year. John K. John Kittredge 1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90