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Advice on screws for Rub Rail
harwichboy	#1  Posted on 08/14/11 - 7:12 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 49 Comments: 1 Joined: 11/28/10	I wasn't able to pull this up in a site search. I have decided to go with screws for rub rail install on my Nauset 16. Can anyone advise in dimensions? I'm thinking a 1 1/4" stainless is about right.
todd12	#2  Posted on 08/14/11 - 7:55 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 220 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/27/06	I have used the rivets that came with my kit ( That is what I would recommend ). There is no wood for the screws to grab in that area of the boat . If you are using screws, 11/4 should be fine. Todd
BurtonLawton	#3  Posted on 08/14/11 - 6:11 PM
Member Posts: 8 Comments: 0 Joined: 04/02/08	I have used both rivets and screws over the years on several Whaler resto's; I agree with Todd, go with the rivets which seem to hold up better over time.
tyno22	#4  Posted on 08/15/11 - 8:51 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 15 Comments: 4 Joined: 07/15/09	For my 19 Outrage, think we used #10 SS screws. We were debating the same thing when it came time to put the rub rail insert on (rivets or screws). After some research we decided to go with screws. When taking the old one off it had rivets though. I contacted Whaler on this and they told me they do sell these screws with some type of epoxy on them. That way when you screw them in the epoxy will harden up and help seal the screw. We already had our screws bought before we contacted them about this though, so we didn't use the screws with the epoxy. Whaler stated that is what they use now a days. Our mistake with the screws was that we bought some with a hex head. Once fitted and the rub rail on, you could see all these little bumps where the screws were underneath the rub rail. I then took the rub rail off, took out the hex screws and put in phyllips oval head screws. That way the rub rail fit better into the reciever track and the previous screw bums were gone. Tony Tony Hentz 1973 19'4 Outrage, 175 Johnson, Stencil #0001
Binkie	#5  Posted on 08/15/11 - 10:11 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 2012 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/19/05	I think rivets will do a better job, thats what I used, but I did use a couple of 2" screws around the hard bends in the corners of the bow. I don't think there is wood in there but the long screws were able to draw the rail in tight at those spots.
Optiker	#6  Posted on 08/15/11 - 5:44 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 40 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/13/10	I recently put a rubrail on my 1966 13 Sport. I used the SS screws that came with the kit (with the epoxy coating), and they worked very well. There were a few places in the bow where the glass had been crushed a bit in the past where the screws did not set real good, but I just added a couple nearby in those places and that did the trick. The hard plastic base is a real beotch to work with but the end product looks really sharp! Got mine through Sue at TwinCitiesMarine 1966 Whaler 13
tomcleary	#7  Posted on 08/15/11 - 7:04 PM
Member Posts: 1 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/07/06	I'm about to attach the rub rail to my 73 Montauk restoration. I was thinking marine 5200 would hold with a few screws at strategic locations like bow and other curves. Anyone ever use this method.
harwichboy	#8  Posted on 09/12/11 - 10:17 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 49 Comments: 1 Joined: 11/28/10	Thanks for the input. I ended up using rivets. It was an all-day project. The rigid track was the tough part. The vinyl insert went in willingly. I was able to run a marine grade two connector wire inside the vinyl insert. Looks good! Neil