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I was thinking about fabricating a small fishing arch for my 1991 17' Outrage and was wondering if anyone else has done something like this? If so, are there any pictures available? I'm thinking about putting lights, my antenas, rod holders and a few other items in it...I don't think the actual bending of the metal would be that much of an issue but I'm more concerned with my options to connecting the arch to the boat...I was thinking about using the bimini top connect clips...this would allow me to tilt the arch if bridge clearance is too low and to remove it during the winter...my other concern would be running the power to the lights...I know I'd have to drill a couple of holes in the metal and feed the wires though...but how do I run those wires to the console?
Any suggestions?
I would recommend purchasing a couple leaning post footrest swivels to weld into the base of the arch and to a large square mounting plate. With this it will allow you to unscrew the front pivot tilt the arch back and it will be MUCH stronger than a Bimini mount. You would be surprised the stress that is put on that arch so, the better the mount the less likely it is to pull itself out.
I responded to your other thread on the other site - but I agree with Jeff - Bimini Hardware just won't cut it due to the foreseable stresses on the structure.
The wind load alone with rods and antennas up there is signficiant. Ever try to hold a flagpole in the air with a flag on it at 40 MPH? There is quite a tug! Also - much of that mass is "reversed" when hitting a wave - so you have pushing and then pulling again and side to side movement, etc..
Atlantic Towers does make a foldable arch - as do several other manufacturers, including wake-board tower makers, etc. These are much beefier bits of equipment than the Bimini hardware.
The biggest drawback to the folding design is deciding how to run your electrical wiring and cabling up to power your lights, antennas, etc up there. At some point, the wire is going to be exposed to UV and also subject to bending/flexing continually, as well as risking being snagged on numerous occasions (fishing lures, gear going in and out of boat, etc)...this greatly increases the risk of wire/cable failure.
All of this is a process I went through with my arch project - and though it ruined opportunities for storage and made me find taller storage spaces for the boat, it has been worthwhile to have a fixed unit.
Thanks for the info and insight...I never thought there would be that must stress exerted on the arch...I guess you learn somthing new everyday...I'm going to start looking a little closer at fishing arch designs until I find one I think will work for me and my Outrage...as you already know, storage space on these boats is at a premium and I'm just trying to add a little real estate...so to speak...
One last question...what is the best way to put a backing plate on? I won't be able to look at my whaler for a little while longer but I'm pretty sure I'll have to through bolt it down...is there a lip I'll be able to drill through for this? I just won't want the arch blowing away on the highway!
There's actually a lot of engineering in an arch. It has to be flexible enough to flex with the boat and the waves, but it also needs to be stiff enough to resist cracking.
Arch designers use gussets and trusses to make the arch stiffer fore and aft and side to side. Too stiff though, and you'll shear mounting bolts. A full arch weighs around 50 lbs or so, and a 17' outrage generates a lot of momentum for that mass when you slam into the face of a wave.
On the chop and slop we have here in the great lakes, the mantra is that if it can break, it will eventually. Don't do anything halfway.
I don't know what the undergunwale construction is on the 17' Outrage, but I'd go to a chandlery and pick up some 1/4 inch aluminum plate to use as backing plates. Then attach the arch to these plates by drilling and tapping the plate with threads. That will provide the best holding power.
on my 18, it required that I cut just a bit of fiberglass/gelcoat under the gunwale in a small section, insert the backing plate and epoxy it in place. The gunwale board becomes a sandwich - the foot of the arch on top, the gunwale board in the middle, and a backing plate underneath. A simple screw won't cut it for something like this. Your passengers will grab hold of it in waves, you'll grab hold of it when docking, etc...and the whole thing will beat like hell on the highway and on the water - but mostly on the water!