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Motor is on a stand and in the garage and I am beginning the inspection process after a long period of no use and O/S storage. Lots of bugs and spider webs in all the likely places. I have carb rebuild kits and a new impeller to install. I plan to defeat the VRO and mix by hand and will probably install a water separator filter before I mount the engine back on the boat.
Right now I am debugging and inspecting. I removed both the covers on the mid section and found lots of nests which I have cleaned out. The 4 bolts holding each cover appear to have had blue lock-tite on them. I don't see where these covers were sealed in any way and need to know if there are any instructions or advice before I reinstall them. The lower mounts appear to be in good condition.
I have to remove the lower unit to replace the impeller. I have the service manual. Any tricks I should know before attempting this procedure? Manuals just don't tell the common problems I might run into. My impeller kit came with a large O ring, probably the housing gasket and 2 smaller O rings. I already drained the fluid which looks like new and no water or milky color. Both O rings on the drain and fill level screws look fine. The engine has not been run in over 5 years and I suspect separating the lower unit may be tricky.
I am sure there will be other questions as I dig deeper and make progress. One thing I do find interesting and I think I should be happy about. The spark plugs are new and have never been fired which tends to go along with the previous owners claim it was fully serviced prior to lay up. Looking in to the piston tops I can see fresh, clean metal and no carbon build up or fouling at all. The fellow claimed his dad might only have used this new motor a couple of times before he became ill.
I'd start by spraying some fogging or engine oil into each cyl before moving the flywheel at all as over a long period of layup the lube tends to drip down.
When you get the carbs off for the rebuild, look in and inspect the reeds best you can. Check for both broken and bent (don't lie flat) ones.
I'd also take the opportunity while all the carbs are off to replace all the fuel lines on the engine as the old ones will probably succumb to ethanol and be problematic.
Take a look at this video below, it's very comprehensive on how to change a water pump assy. It's for an Etec but your engine shouldn't be much different. There's a neat trick included on how to "set" the new impeller so it pumps more efficiently:
Thanks Dave. I'm a step ahead because I have read it here before and already sprayed the cylinders with engine tune which is supposed to free up the rings and coat the walls.
I am trying to locate the molded fuel lines now and will replace them all. Will also check out the reeds you mention but expect to find a fairly new condition in there.
Going now to see if my connection will allow me to view the video. NO GO! I need some sort of plug in for Win7 and don't know how to get it.
I would like to find a good paint to match the blue/silver color so I can repaint the cowling cover which seems to be the worst of the wear.
