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Winterizing 90 HP Johnson
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| krobock |
Posted on 09/28/10 - 12:58 PM
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We have been winterizing a Boston Whaler Montauk(96) 90 HP Johnson for a number of years. Some folks say to run the gas tank dry and put stabilizer in the gas. Other folks say to not run the gas tank dry because it takes oil into the carbs making it hard to start in the spring.
Any advice on a proven method of winterization that will enable easy starting in the Spring time?
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| Yknot |
Posted on 09/28/10 - 1:43 PM
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When I winterize my Outboard, I make sure that the gas is as new as can be. I usually siphon out all the gas I used during the year. I replace the old gas with new come october, add stabilizer and Startron ethonal treatment.
Good to go April/May!
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 09/29/10 - 5:54 AM
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I would empty the tanks and store them inside. Run the engine out of fuel and use fogging spray to shut it down.
Fuel with ethanol breaks down in less than 3 months and attracts moisture.
Gary
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| CES |
Posted on 09/29/10 - 6:27 AM
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Drain the carbs by loosening the large screw on the bottom of each carb bowl too. Running the engine out of fuel won't get all the fuel out of the carb bowls and that little bit of left over fuel is what will gel and cause issues inthe spring.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| DownTonset |
Posted on 09/30/10 - 4:43 AM
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krobock wrote:
Any advice on a proven method of winterization that will enable easy starting in the Spring time?
For boats with external fuel tanks, this method has worked well for me since the dawn of the E-10 era (leaving lower unit maintenance aside):
Try to run the tank down as far as you can at the end of the season. If you happen to have a lot of good gas left when it's time to wrap things up for the year, dump all but a couple of gallons into gerry cans, and reuse it in your car, truck, lawnmower, or whatever.
Stabilize the remaining fuel in the boat, run the engine for a few minutes, then kill it slowly by fogging the carbs one at a time. When the engine stops running, pull the spark plugs, and squirt fogging oil into each cylinder for 3 or 4 seconds. Replace the plugs (but not the wires) and turn the engine over a couple of times.
Finally. drain the float bowls on the carbs thoroughly, and re-tighten the drain screws. Dispose of whatever gas may be left in the tank, leaving it totally dry for the winter. Come spring, just replace the plugs, pour in some fresh fuel, and you shoul be good to go.
1984 Montauk--1984 Evinrude 90 |
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 09/30/10 - 8:48 AM
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That sounds like a great plan DownTonset!
I use Marvel Mystery spray in the cylinders but otherwise follow a very similar plan with all my stored 2 cycles. I also spray some of the fogging oil into the carb bowls through the drain plug holes in hopes it might keep the float and bowl wet over the winter.
I have 2 chain saws and an ice auger all over 20 years old and all start right up with fresh fuel and a few pulls.
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 09/30/10 - 1:24 PM
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Great information! Before I spray the fogging oil in via the spark plug holes, I tilt the engine up and turn the steering so the top of the piston is as horizontal as possible. I put the socket and 1/2" drive on the flywheel nut, and turn by hand as I spray into each cylinder. This ensures the fogging oil reaches the top of the cylinder walls/piston rings too as the piston is moving. Might be overkill, but seems to work well and provides complete oil distribution.
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| Ice Cop |
Posted on 10/01/10 - 8:25 AM
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NEED TO BE CAREFUL ABOUT CRANKING ANY ENGINE AFTER ADDING OIL INTO THE CYLINDERS DIRECTLY, THE ENGINE SHOULD BE CRANKED BUT WITH THE PLUGS OUT. OIL IN THE CYLINDERS AND PLUGS IN COULD CREATE A HYDRAULIC LOCK AND DO DAMAGE. I AGREE WITH THE EARLIER POSTER WHO SAID TILT UP THE ENGINE AND ADD MYSTERY OR FOGGING OIL THEN CRANK, JUST LEAVE THE PLUGS OUT UNTIL DONE CRANKING.
AS FAR AS ETHANOL FUEL, I HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH STABILIZING FUEL AND RUNNING IT THROUGH THE ENGINE, I HAVE DONE THIS FOR YEARS WITH BOTH INBOARDS AND OUTBOARDS WITHOUT A BIT OF TROUBLE. AND I HAVE NEVER DRAINED THE CARB BOWLS ON INBOARDS OR OUTBOARDS. MAYBE I HAVE JUST BEEN LUCKY.
I PERSONALLY LEAVE THE TANKS AS EMPTY AS POSSIBLE FOR THE FOLLOWING REASONS
1. IF YOU HAVE THE FUEL GO BAD, GETTING RID OF IT CAN BE A VERY EXPENSIVE PROPOSITION. 10.00/GALLON TO DROP IT TO CLEAN HARBORS HERE IN BOSTON. SO WITH THE 3.50 TO BUY IT + THE OIL, I'M SPENDING 14.00/ GALLON TO DISPOSE OF BAD FUEL. OUCH!
2. IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH A FUEL TANK, FILTER, ETC OVER THE WINTER BETTER TO LEAK AS LITTLE FUEL AS POSSIBLE, SINCE IT ALWAYS SEEMS TO BE THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK THAT ROTS.
3. I AM THE ETERNAL OPTIMIST AND ALWYS HOPE THE FUEL WILL BE CHEAPER IN THE SPRING AND THEREFORE SAVE MYSELF A FEW BUCKS.
4. GOD FORBID THE WIFE DECIDES TO THROW ME OUT AND WE HAVE TO GET RID OF THE BOATS, HER IDEA WOULD BE TO TORCH THE WHOLE BUNCH OF THEM. HOPEFULLY WITH ME NOT ONBOARD. WHILE I WOULD PREFER TO SELL THEM, NEEDLESS TO SAY SHE'D HAVE AN EASIER TIME IF THEY WERE FULL OF FUEL.
HAVE A GREAT DAY !
Edited by Ice Cop on 10/01/10 - 8:27 AM |
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| MW |
Posted on 10/01/10 - 9:22 AM
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I like to move the steering wheel every week or so during the winter lay up, about once a month I turn the flywheel by hand. I keep the cover on the boat open at both ends (air is let in, water is kept out). This works out very well but, you must do a "Critter check" like once a week, so I spin the flywheel and steering wheel when I check for "stowe-aways". If I don't, I'll see foot prints in the snow, and they are NOT mine.
Matt |
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