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#1 The rubber bellows is probaly the thing that could casue the most damage. If it leaks it will fill the hull with water and could sink the boat. This happend to a guy I work with. Fortunatly his boat was in it slip when it happened and not on open water. Have the I/O tilted up fully and swing the unit from side to side. You will be able to see this large rubber flex hose going form the boat to the drive. Check it all over the dry rot and cracking.
#2 check the lower unit oil just like you would check an outboards. If milkly you have a problem
#3 Check the rubber lines going to the hydraulic cylinders to lift the drive. make sure there is no cracks. if the have the Stainless Mesh weave over the lines this could be difficult.
#3 Check the Motor over just like you would inspect a car engine. Hook a set of muffs up and start the motor. Listen for any knocking or pinging noise. Check the oil make sure it is clean. Check to make sure it is pumping water as well.
#4 Check all the belts for cracking. If cracked and worn they should be replaced.
#5 Check the altenator make sure it is working.
#6 Depending on the vintage of the motor it could have point and condensor ignition. If so check the points. If the person buying the boat is not a mechcanicaly knowledgable person this is not the motor for them.
that is a start Mike...
Edited by Jeff on 06/10/05 - 12:11 PM
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
There are many things that can go undetected with an untrained visual inspection. One of these is a bad engine coupler which requires the engine to be pulled for replacement, $$$$$$$.
It is best to pay a mechanic to do a buyers mechanical inspection. Most times these can be done in under 2 hours and is well worth the money.