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Unable to prime
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| Erik Eide |
Posted on 08/15/10 - 7:39 PM
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Hey guys- Is there anyone out there with any solutions to a weak prime bulb. I have a 1986 22'revenge with a 225hp johnson. I've had running problems from time to time- hard to start, stalling at higher RPMs ( thinking these were cold engine problems I usually ignored them: I also tend to cruise at lower RPMs so not always a visible symptom). Yesterday the motor stalled while at idle and I was unable to restart, unable to get a good prime on the bulb either. I was looking at the fuel separator and the ground to a solenoid associated with it thinking it was the culprit as it had a weak connection. I repaired it- still no prime. This was a recent boat purchase so I'm not sure when the filter was replaced last. I cannot see any leaks. I pulled the plug on the separator- no visible water...... any ideas?
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| DownTonset |
Posted on 08/15/10 - 10:31 PM
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Erik Eide wrote:
Hey guys- Is there anyone out there with any solutions to a weak prime bulb. I have a 1986 22'revenge with a 225hp johnson. I've had running problems from time to time- hard to start, stalling at higher RPMs ( thinking these were cold engine problems I usually ignored them: I also tend to cruise at lower RPMs so not always a visible symptom). Yesterday the motor stalled while at idle and I was unable to restart, unable to get a good prime on the bulb either. I was looking at the fuel separator and the ground to a solenoid associated with it thinking it was the culprit as it had a weak connection. I repaired it- still no prime. This was a recent boat purchase so I'm not sure when the filter was replaced last. I cannot see any leaks. I pulled the plug on the separator- no visible water...... any ideas?
Could be a lot of things, given the info posted thus far, but I'd thoroughly go over your fuel lines and connections again before doing anything else. Assuming there's fuel in your tank, it is almost certain that there is a leak in the fuel system somewhere if the primer bulb won't firm up.
Are you running ethanol blended gas? E-10 does a number on old rubber fuel lines, often leading to cracking and splitting. It degrades the lines from the inside out, causing little chunks of rubber to settle in the carb bowls before making their way into the jets. This may also explain why the engine cut out only at high RPM at first--perhaps only the high-speed jets were plugged until recently.
If this were my boat, I'd replace all of the fuel lines from tank to motor with alcohol-resistant lines, clean the carbs, and see what happens from there. Keep us posted.
1984 Montauk--1984 Evinrude 90 |
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| Bake |
Posted on 08/16/10 - 5:18 AM
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Do you know the bulb is installed in the right direction. Also the orientation of the bulb can make a difference. The out going end should be higher than the incoming. This will help the check ball seat.
One experience I had was after changing the water separating filter I did not want to install the new too tight. I thought it was on good enough but the boat kept shutting off. I snugged up on the filter and the problem went away.
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| Marty Johns Isd SC |
Posted on 08/16/10 - 5:23 AM
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Hey Erik, I had some similar things happening to me last summer after I bought my 15' Whaler. Mainly I could not prime the primer bulb. My engine would flood if I squeezed it (the bul more than three times. It ended up being my fuel pump and it needed to be replaced. Now I can squeeze it until it gets hard(the bulb that is) and it runs great! The real experts on here may be able to offer more advice than me. There are lots of knowledgeable people here and they will be able to target your problem. Good Luck!!!
Marty Durham
Edited by Marty Johns Isd SC on 08/16/10 - 5:25 AM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 08/16/10 - 11:25 AM
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Things to think about automatically replacing on a boat /engine just purchased used.
1. Replace all fuel lines
2. Replace fuel bulb
3. Replace external fuel/water filter if equipped
4. Replace spark plugs
5. Always a good idea to replace water pump if not knowing the condition.
6. Battery ?
Those are the things I basically automatically replace when buying something used before taking the boat on any long trip.
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 08/16/10 - 12:01 PM
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Great suggestions, and I'd add that it's always worth it to spend a little extra to get the OEM primer bulb as the quality is so much better than aftermarket and will ensure years of trouble free use.
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| Erik Eide |
Posted on 08/16/10 - 6:24 PM
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Guys- Thanks for all the wisdom....I will attempt these corrections when at the boat in the next few weeks. As far as replacing the fuel lines, I assume I will need to remove the floorboards to get at all necessary hoses -yes?
I also wanted to add some more info I neglected to add at last post.
I should add why the original stall during idle in forward- I hit a bull whip (a heavy duty kind of seaweed here in the Puget Sound) it fouled the prop but came off easily with no visible damage.
Also- I have noticed it takes forever to add fuel to the filler. I've tried with and w/o a funnel and the fuel just enters REAL slow so the fuel pump shuts off. Could this be a problem with the tank breather mounted next to the fuel filler on the outside of the hull? If so, could the breather be part of the problem with the no prime? If so...is the breather serviceable or will it need to be replaced. I'm guessing it's a screw on breather, or will I need to access fittings from inside the hull? I'm thinking many of you may still point to fuel lines so these will be a priority.
Next I did get the motor started after about 15 min yet, still had a weak prime before it fired off. I ran it back to the dock about 15 min with no problems.
Edited by Erik Eide on 08/16/10 - 6:31 PM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 08/16/10 - 7:01 PM
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I would start by replacing the fuel lines in the rear.
That is where the engine draws its fuel from.
No need to replace the forward fill hose unless it has deteriorated but that still won't help your engine running any better.
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| DownTonset |
Posted on 08/17/10 - 2:05 AM
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Erik Eide wrote:
Also- I have noticed it takes forever to add fuel to the filler. I've tried with and w/o a funnel and the fuel just enters REAL slow so the fuel pump shuts off. Could this be a problem with the tank breather mounted next to the fuel filler on the outside of the hull? If so, could the breather be part of the problem with the no prime? If so...is the breather serviceable or will it need to be replaced. I'm guessing it's a screw on breather, or will I need to access fittings from inside the hull? I'm thinking many of you may still point to fuel lines so these will be a priority.
Sounds like you might have some sort of a venting problem. Unless you have a major blockage in your filler line (is there a screen in there that may be clogged?) the fuel is going down slowly because the air it's displacing is not being allowed to escape quickly enough, creating sufficient back pressure to prevent the fuel from flowing freely into the tank.
I had this problem with my last boat, but it was because the fuel system plumbing was designed badly, and I just had to learn to live with 20 minute fill-ups.
I don't know whether your boat has a similar design flaw (others here may have some insight), but if not, I would suggest that either your filler or vent lines (possibly both) have been compromised by a build-up of varnish or some other kind of debris.
Edited by DownTonset on 08/18/10 - 3:08 AM
1984 Montauk--1984 Evinrude 90 |
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| ioptfm |
Posted on 08/17/10 - 6:20 AM
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Also if you have an external fuel filter/seperator check the bottom of it for rust and corrosion. Many times a small hole will develope that will cause the lines not to fully prime
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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