1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Milky Lower End Oil
Marty Johns Isd SC	#1  Posted on 07/26/10 - 9:27 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 80 Comments: 2 Joined: 05/17/09	Hey All, I just changed my lower end oil and it was slightly milky looking. I change both plastic "O" rings on the plugs every year too. Just wondered how bad this is when a little water gets into the foot? At least I guess it is water? Is this an expensive fix? My engine is a 2001 Johnson 90 hp two stroke. Thanks for any help! Marty Durham
Jeff	#2  Posted on 07/26/10 - 9:58 AM
Member Posts: 1987 Comments: 34 Joined: 04/02/05	First off it is bad to have any water in the lower unit gear lube. Especially in climates that are subject to freezing weather as the water will freeze and crack the case. That said any amount of water great begins to decrease the effectiveness of the oil's lubrication. The greater the water/oil ratio the greater the expected impeding damage. It is likely seal around your propeller shaft has failed and is the cause of this. It is a common repair. This is often caused by getting fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft at some time. 1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
mattgeiger	#3  Posted on 07/26/10 - 10:12 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 310 Comments: 2 Joined: 02/22/07	No one is going to say that water in there doesn't hurt. Short-term fix, you can change the oil more often if you're getting a little water in there. Eventually you'll want to pressure test and repair it right. I had my guy test it and ended up needing exhaust seals. He did those while he was putting in a new impeller and disconnecting my vro. $210 for all of it - parts included. Yes, my guy is a bargain. Cape Dory 28 Hobie 20 Miracle A Class Catamaran
Derwd24	#4  Posted on 07/26/10 - 10:13 AM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	You may also want to check the main shaft seals below the water pump, seen a few of those go bad too, and replacing them all is easy insurance against future problems. Do you have a way to pressure test the gearcase to locate the leak? Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
whalerman	#5  Posted on 07/26/10 - 10:37 AM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	Need to pressure and vaccuum test to be sure gear box is leak proof, for at least 15 mins. each. Edited by whalerman on 07/26/10 - 10:37 AM THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
tommy mc	#6  Posted on 07/26/10 - 10:47 AM
Member Posts: 30 Comments: 2 Joined: 05/29/08	had a little water in my lube at end-of -last year closeup. looked slightly milky. let it sit over the winter in a jar and it sepoerated to be about 1/2" deep in a 8" deep jar. a little is a lot. had all the seals replaced and through the water pump in for good measure. $500
DWinter	#7  Posted on 07/26/10 - 5:49 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 252 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/02/10	One reason I recommend synthetic lower unit fluid is it retains more lubrication capabilities if there's any problems with water intrusion. I'd recommend refilling with it, if you haven't already, then after your next outing, Let it sit for a few days, then pull the bottom drain plug and see how much water drains. That way when you pull the drain plug, you can tell how bad it is since the water will be separated from the oil and will drain first. Inspect the fluid it and go from there. I'd also pull the prop and verify there isn't any fishing line wrapped around the shaft and cutting into the seal. Hopefully you've already fixed the problem with the new fiber washers on th drain plug. Duane G Winter 1984 BW Sport 15 Center Console
modenacart	#8  Posted on 07/27/10 - 1:08 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 741 Comments: 4 Joined: 02/28/09	I would take the prop off every year and look for fishing line wrapped around the shaft near the seal and get it off. Fishing line is one of the leading causes for that seal failure. They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety. --Benjamin Franklin
MW	#9  Posted on 07/27/10 - 1:38 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	As everyone has stated, It's important to pull the prop off at the end of the season and inspect for fishing line entanglement, and check the seals. I also put a wipe of grease (I use synthetic as well) on the spline shaft before putting the prop back on. Taking the prop off, greasing, and inspecting is also important so that the prop and spline don't become "ONE". Matt
Marty Johns Isd SC	#10  Posted on 07/27/10 - 2:32 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 80 Comments: 2 Joined: 05/17/09	Thankyou Everyone for your help!!!! I knew you fellas would have the answers to help me out. Thanks again!!! Marty Durham
number9	#11  Posted on 07/27/10 - 7:13 PM
Member Posts: 210 Comments: 1 Joined: 03/13/08	Worst case scenario? Possibly inspect prop shaft for line and static leakage. If no leak found change the lube and check after several hours use. Bill...On the Ogeechee 1984 Outrage 18...Yamaha T50...that's right, 50hp