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Andrew,
The process of cleaning and waxing our Whalers I've learned from others and at this point it's:
1. Something to remove the oxidation. There are many.
2. For Non skid, Starbrite Non-skidd cleaner - apparently this has something in it that also helps protect the gel-coat.
3. Some like to wet sand with paper in the range of 600 to 2000 grit at this point. (Not the Non skid though)
4. Meguiers #44 Color Restorer
5. Meguiers #45 Polish - some may prefer 3M Fineese it II
6. Collinite #925 Wax - there seems to be quite a bit of opinion on waxes, i.e. some prefer Meguiers wax and other waxes
I had some very difficult drips on the deck I assumed was from a sloppy Teak Oil job. I tried Mineral spirits, alcohol and laquer thinner with no success. Thanks to a kind soul taking pity on me I received an email suggesting Teak Clenaer. I was about to try this when my wife came out the door with a bottle of her household cleaner called VIM. Well, within 5 minutes the "drip" marks were gone and the deck was spotless. I've heard of some using an engine de-greaser for really bad spots.
The concensus I've learned is to start with the least agressive product first. Then if you need something more aggresive go one small notch more aggressive. The strength of this aggressiveness may be from the product having acids, such as oxalic or muratic in it or from something abrassive. I'm not sure what the additive is that creates this.
If you're unsure it's best to try it on a small spot that will not be noticed.
The tool of choice is the Porter Cable 7424 polisher.
Comments?
Peter
Edited by cdnwhaler on 05/31/05 - 2:12 PM
1984 Outrage 22
For the last several years I used the Collonite products and they have done an excellent job.
I did one year try the polymer stuff and while it looked ok it was no replacement for the tried and true clean, polish, elbow grease and polisher method. It was also not that much quicker to apply, when taking into account preparation time. To top it all off it must be removed to get back to a proper method of polishing.
I'm sure you probably saw this post by Larry Goltz (LHG) on the Whaler Forum but for anyone who hasn't it contains some really great info. Also referenced is your model of polisher.
Peter I just did my outsides of the hull with a Large Industrial polishing wheel. Turned out great.
I read about these people wet sanding out their hulls and cringe. Ouch! Talking to a professional painter and avid life long boater he said that wet sanding out an older finish like that will shine it up yes but also severely decrease the thickness and remaining life of the gelcoat. Never, Never should you be doing that unless you have just painted the surface.
For me I ways use a rubbing compound to start. I use 3M but used what ever you like. Keep working it till you start to see reflections. Now a little trick if the rubbing compound is not working well enough is add baby power or a other non toxic fine power for added grit. Once you can see reflections I started working with Meguires Step 1 surface cleaner. Put in on by hand then use the polisher to remove. Move to Meguires step 2 surface protectant. Put in on by hand then use the polisher to remove. Then I finish with 2 coats of either Eagle One Teflon or Meguires Gold Class polish. Each coat put in on by hand then use the polisher to remove. Turned out Great
I am going to try this on the none skid this weekend...
I had seen that thread Mike. And now the thread has expanded further with more good information. There has been another thread recently on CW here http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/...08717.html Which is more towards the information I was trying to create as a resource rather than a statement about which product to use.
It's the process and technique, not just the brand that is important I've come to realize. Everyone will have their own personal likes about brands. And which brand may depend on fresh or salt water and the severity of the need at each step.
I have to agree with Jeff. I've personally experienced screwing up a nice piece of furniture when sanding. I find wood mistakes forgiving though... most times. But gel-coat? This makes me a little nervous too. I think I'll stay away from sanding unless it's a neccessary repair.
Peter
Edited by cdnwhaler on 06/07/05 - 5:52 AM
1984 Outrage 22
I have a 1983 22 Outrage who spent all its life up on davits on the West coast of Florida, with only a console and seat cover. Needless to say the gelcoat needed help. After cleaning, compounding and buffing it looked ok, but not as good as it could. I looked into wet sanding and buffing the gelcoat and this is what I was told by guys that do this for a living:
1 it is very expensive to send it out and have someone do it for you
2 gelcoat is very thick and if you wetsand with 400 grit 800 grit 1500 grit 2000 grit you will never ever even come close to the fiberglass or ruining the gelcoat
3 yes, you will be sanding off some of the gelcoat but you will never ever come close to the fiberglass or ruining the gelcoat
4 when you buff a boat with a buffing wheel and compound, some of the compound you are using is equivelent to 1000 grit and 1500 grit sandpaper
5 the key is lots of water, very minimal pressure on the boat, lots of time
With this in mind I set out to wet sand my Whaler. Boat Owners Wharehouse had all the supplies I needed. I started with 400 grit and made my way up to 2000 grit. After wet sanding I buffed the boat with 3M Imperial Marine Buffing Compound and most importantly finished it off with Zaino Bros Z3 polish. Zaino Bros products are only available online but they are hands down the best products for your cars and boats(just my opinion). It was tough but the results were worth it. The boat looks better than new.
I too have made wet sanding and buffing mistakes in the past. In High School I attempted to wetsand and buff my parents car with terrible results (lost use of the car for 1 month and cost me lots of money) but comparing paint on cars to gelcoat is apples and oranges. Gelcoat is much thicker.
The process of taking gellcoat through the steps of 400 grit all the way to 1500 is usually refered to as an ultrafine job. It can be very costly and time consuming. It is however the only way to restore old chalky gellcoat and get it to take a wax. The previous post is stated very acurately, but just be prepared for a major time committment. On large flat surfaces a quarter sheet vibrating sander can be used with water to save time-just watch that you do not get shocked!!
If you are considering wet sanding, try Buff Magic by Yacht Brite. It acts like rubbing compound / wet sanding and if done right gives excellant results. The product starts off at the equivlent of 400 grit sandpaper and works it way to 1000 grit, removing the oxidation and really shining the hull. I used it on the boat this past summer and while it didn't come out perfect it looked great. I compared the Buff Magic to a section under the access panels that doesn't get a lot of weather and it was hard to tell the difference.
