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100 Johnson1993 tilt trim motor replaced 17 Whaler
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| tkhvdh |
Posted on 08/26/09 - 8:57 AM
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Bo Neato wrote:
[quote]tkhvdh wrote:
Any suggestions on idle ????
I'm not familiar with your 100, but my 90 SPL had an idle "problem" when I first got it which I found to be a choke issue. It has a primer solenoid that has a bypass switch for emergency pull starting. It bypasses the carbs and dumps fuel right in. The switch wasn't fully closed resulting in a rough and smoky idle. It seems you have a VRO so you have a different fuel pump/choke system, but if you've looked at everything else it might be worth some investigation.
Hey Bo Neato,
Thanks for the reply great idea, I do have a manual choke (red lever) on front of motor near carbs, it may be in the wrong position. All that smoke cleared the insects out of my garage.
Does anyone out there know correct position?
I will give that a try for sure....she was running like old times except for idle!
Edited by tkhvdh on 08/26/09 - 10:41 AM |
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| Bo Neato |
Posted on 08/26/09 - 10:12 AM
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tkhvdh wrote:
Bo Neato wrote:
tkhvdh wrote:
Any suggestions on idle ????
I'm not familiar with your 100, but my 90 SPL had an idle "problem" when I first got it which I found to be a choke issue. It has a primer solenoid that has a bypass switch for emergency pull starting. It bypasses the carbs and dumps fuel right in. The switch wasn't fully closed resulting in a rough and smoky idle. It seems you have a VRO so you have a different fuel pump/choke system, but if you've looked at everything else it might be worth some investigation.
Thanks for the reply great idea, I do have a manual choke (red lever) on front of motor near carbs, it may be in the wrong position. All that smoke cleared the insects out of my garage.
Does anyone out there know correct position?
I will give that a try for sure....she was running like old times except for idle!
That's the one, it's red and comes to a point. My F-I-L and I spent the better part of an afternoon working on the idle until we figured out what the red "fugiggliometer" dial was for and that it was knocked out of position. It rotates 180°, pointed perpendicular to centerline it's "off", pointed perpendicular to starboard (on my 90SPL) it's in "manual choke" position. Spin it out, then back to centerline and fire it up.
Edited by Bo Neato on 08/26/09 - 10:17 AM |
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| Bo Neato |
Posted on 08/26/09 - 10:16 AM
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BTW, does anyone know what the "valve stem" (looks like it belongs on a tire) on the primer solenoid is for?
Edited by Bo Neato on 08/26/09 - 10:17 AM |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 08/26/09 - 10:48 AM
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Just rebuilt one of these off a mid 80's 175 HP as the red primer lever body had cracked and was leaking fuel.
Bo's correct, the red lever should be rotated so that it's pointing toward the solenoid (or you could say toward the base of the solenoid. This is the Run position. 180 degree rotation is the Start or Prime position, pointing away from the solenoid.
The valve is for the connection of a can of fogging oil, makes the winterizing process much easier. The can style looks very similar to the "fix a flat" can that has the clear plastic tubing on it and the screw on fitting at the end.
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| tkhvdh |
Posted on 08/26/09 - 1:30 PM
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Derwd24 wrote:
Just rebuilt one of these off a mid 80's 175 HP as the red primer lever body had cracked and was leaking fuel.
Bo's correct, the red lever should be rotated so that it's pointing toward the solenoid (or you could say toward the base of the solenoid. This is the Run position. 180 degree rotation is the Start or Prime position, pointing away from the solenoid.
The valve is for the connection of a can of fogging oil, makes the winterizing process much easier. The can style looks very similar to the "fix a flat" can that has the clear plastic tubing on it and the screw on fitting at the end.
Derwd and Bo
You all were right on point, I had to wait till grandson woke up from his nap to start her up. . Took cowl off motor and red lever was pointing towards starboard, turned lever clockwise and then she fired right off. I think I had moved the lever when I was cleaning motor up a week ago or so. After holding choke in several times got her running at idle. Started three times in a row as soon as you hit the key.
Have new gas but some old oil, could that be the smoking going on or just old buildup?. Should I SEA FOAM her?
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 08/26/09 - 2:01 PM
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If she was running fine before all this happened, my guess is you have an air leak somewhere in your fuel line. When that happens, it causes the VRO pump to cycle much more frequently, and that produces the excess smoke. Happened on my '87 225 when we first got the boat, and when I fixed the air leak, the reduction in the amount smoke was dramatic.
If you have or can get a clear length of fuel line and install it right before the VRO pump, you can visibly see if there's air entering the system or not.
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| Bo Neato |
Posted on 08/26/09 - 2:19 PM
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I cleaned off my plugs and added Seafoam to my fuel right afterward. It's a smoker anyway, everytime I fire her up I feel like a kid again so I don't mind.
Could the fogging valve be a simple solution for Seafoaming a warm engine?
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| MW |
Posted on 08/26/09 - 3:06 PM
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I touched that red knob by accident on my old 48spl when I first got my boat, would'nt idle right after that (kept stalling at low idle). I brought it to a repair shop, they re-build the carbs, same problem. I told a mechanic at work about it (who knew about outboards) and he said "They re-built carb's on a 3 yr old engine" ???? he took a look at my running motor and asked "Did you touch this red knob" I said "I dunno', he spun it back and "BAM", she smoothed right out, then he shot me the "Hairy Eyeball".
Edited by MW on 08/26/09 - 3:17 PM
Matt |
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| tkhvdh |
Posted on 08/28/09 - 6:22 PM
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It was time to take the Whaler to the river today for a sea trial. 100 HP 1993 Johnson GT fired right up and we headed down the channel toward the the main river. Tilt/trim worked fine. Good stream was noted from water pump. Motor ran fine at idle and at top speed. She was happy to be back on the water.
About a half mile down river we got a steady warning horn. We pulled up to a city boat ramp to shut off motor and let it sit for a minute to see if we could determine cause. As we were heading back up river to the marina another boater pulled up to see if he could help. He was a marine tech from the marina we had launched from earlier. He asked several questions and then advised several things as to what may be causing the warning horn including low oil/fuel pressure or overheating. He said to remove the cowl and check the two cylinder heads for heat. Once the cowl was off we unhooked the brown wire going to each head to see if that was causing the warning. Once the port side wire was disconnected the warning horn stopped. That cylinder head was also hotter than starboard side.
We got her back on trailer and took her home. It appears that the port thermostat is not opening. After over an hour of working to remove three bolts holding thermostat housing, which was hard to access because of the way it was designed. Sure enough when I got there it was the port thermostat corroded shut. This is the second time I have had this cover off to work on the thermostats.
Anyone kniow an easy way to deal with these bolts?
Edited by tkhvdh on 08/28/09 - 6:26 PM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 08/28/09 - 6:36 PM
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You say work on the thermostats...
I would suggest replacing both with new thermostats and new gaskets...
I don't have any idea on the problem with the bolts as I don't know that engine.
If you got them out, they should go back in.
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| tkhvdh |
Posted on 08/28/09 - 6:50 PM
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Joe Kriz wrote:
You say work on the thermostats...
I would suggest replacing both with new thermostats and new gaskets...
I don't have any idea on the problem with the bolts as I don't know that engine.
If you got them out, they should go back in.
Your right Joe,
I do think r/r of the thermostats will fix the problem. I had done this once before, just didn't think they had gone bad again as I always flush her out with fresh water.
Sometime back I recall reading a thread on WF where a member commented about the terrible access on this model engine ( 93 Johnson 100GT) to the thermostats housing.
Does anyone know a better "way to skin the cat" on getting this cover on and off?
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| tkhvdh |
Posted on 08/29/09 - 7:57 PM
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UPDATE Good News WC members
Thermostats have been r/r. It took about an hour to get the housing removed although there is only three bolts holding them in. The Johnson folks must have been trying to capture Houdini with this design. But be careful cause when they do come loose there are two springs inside. R/r is just a reverse of removal. That is the easy part, getting all those parts/gaskets/springs to stay in place while getting the three bolts lined up is the trick. Well all I can say is we left to go to the river at about 4:15 after working all afternoon.
GOOD NEWS she fired up and we never did get a warning horn or any overheating.
Wide open and idle seemed ok. Later while idling up stream I tried to give her throttle and she died out. Can I be getting air in the fuel line? Later she did throttle up without dying but now seems sluggish compared to earlier. Let me say when she is running right she will throw you out of this Whaler if your not hanging on.....
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| tkhvdh |
Posted on 09/04/09 - 6:54 PM
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Derwd24 "If she was running fine before all this happened, my guess is you have an air leak somewhere in your fuel line."
You were right, when we cranked her today at home she is leaking air/fuel right before the in line filter. I bet a new fitting will fix this.
She fired on the first crank.
Thanks Derwd24 for the PM also.
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| tkhvdh |
Posted on 09/16/09 - 11:24 AM
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Sorry for not updating you all on my repairs to fuel line. We have a had some days of bad weather, high seas and rain...
If it does not stop soon I am getting in my lifeboat (Whaler) in the driveway.
Need to test out fuel line at full load and see if the problem with bogging down is fixed.
Does anyone know of a good spray on rust inhibitor for my new tilt/trim motor? I do not want to lose this one to rust.
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 09/16/09 - 1:54 PM
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I picked up a couple of cans of the BRP Anti-Corrosion spray (link below) at the start of this season, used it on a couple of items on the trailer (salt water use). Not a long term test, but so far so good:
http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Accesso...osionSpray
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| tkhvdh |
Posted on 10/26/09 - 5:55 PM
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Derwd24 wrote:
I picked up a couple of cans of the BRP Anti-Corrosion spray (link below) at the start of this season, used it on a couple of items on the trailer (salt water use). Not a long term test, but so far so good:
http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Accesso...osionSpray
Thanks Derwd24
Next Project on the Johnson 100 is to sand off old paint from lower unit and repaint. I plan on purchasing paint from OMC and doing this during the fall. Also would like to update parts of my trailer. I have newer tires but need some work on rollers and bunks.
Any suggestions on getting down to a good base for repaint?
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