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evinrude 100, 1979. no balls, overheating
SToomey006
#61 Print Post
Posted on 07/11/09 - 6:42 PM
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Its only side to side, and I'm not sure what the piston skirt is :-/, but i'll do some homework. My friend has some sort of a grinder he briefly spoke of, that hooks up to his compressor I believe. I dont know the specifics of it but im pretty sure hes planning on doing it with the piston in, and the head is already off of course. I think i'll just replace the head though, depending on how it goes with said grinder. does this sound like a bad idea? my main objective is to get whatever life this motor has left in it without rebuilding bc i dont think its worth it..


Edited by SToomey006 on 07/11/09 - 7:58 PM
 
MW
#62 Print Post
Posted on 07/12/09 - 1:07 AM
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When I rebuilt my previous engine (ate a Ring) everything was replaced except the head, it was pretty mangled, and I was reading where there could be "Hot spot's" from it causing trouble, I went down to the shop that walked me through the re-build, I had bought 1 new reed block, and was going back to buy another bank cause, there was also a space in one reed (slightly open). One of the mechanic's came out and said " Kid, Just put it together, the compression will close that loose reed, don't worry about the head either", he was right, IT RAN Great.


Matt
 
theo
#63 Print Post
Posted on 07/12/09 - 4:38 PM
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Hard to say without seeing it, but I'm inclined to agree with Matt. I wouldn't get carried away with grinding; just knock the burrs off and don't try to polish it just to make it pretty. Hard to imagine you need a new head, but again, hard to say without seeing it.

The low compression might be because of damage to the rings from the scoring. It will run good with uneven compression, just might not idle that great, and a little less power. You might think about doing a "hand job" on the scored cylinder wall if it seems bad. You can use a small sharpening stone, or a replacement stone from a cylinder hone and just rub it down slightly. Keep it lubricated and don't let crud get down below the piston.

The piston skirt is the bottom part closest to the crank. Like Dave said, the rings keep the piston running true in the cylinder without rocking enough so the skirt rubs.

Nice job of troubleshooting SToomey!

ps - If you start a Project Page I think you get to post slightly larger pictures. . .


Ted
1985 15' CC, 1994 60 hp Merc (Wednesday built), 5" jack plate
 
Derwd24
#64 Print Post
Posted on 07/12/09 - 4:51 PM
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Yes, and the crossflow engines like this one were prone to carbon buildup on the rings, esp on the thrust side of the piston I've been told, so the Deep Creep decarb could help with that. Also, running a newer 2 stroke oil like the XD-50 from Evinrude (BRP) would really help stop any future carbon issues. The "no-name" aftermarket brands of oil are infamous for producing more carbon in the cyl's than the higher quality OEM brands.


Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
 
MW
#65 Print Post
Posted on 07/12/09 - 5:48 PM
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The "DEEP CREEP" de-carbonizer is the BEST, leave it in overnight if you can.



Matt
 
SToomey006
#66 Print Post
Posted on 07/12/09 - 9:28 PM
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ok cool. i'll start a project page soon. i have to ask Joe right?

definitely going to deep creep all 4 cyls (see no reason y i couldnt leave it in overnight),
replace head gaskets,
use the high grade name brand 2cycle oil,
and i'll get pictures of the head and the piston up soon.

thank you guys SO MUCH. i'd be 50k feet, no plane no parachute if it wasnt for all your mentoring and advice. i tend to act impulsively at times, and i have to say, Dave (derwd24), has at least on one occasion kept me from blowing her up lol. my highest thanks to you all, and esp to Joe for making this awesome site possible. talk to u soon with the latest Smile

-Sean

 
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