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problems with my ETEC!!!! say its not true!!
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 09/19/08 - 7:48 AM
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Duff, Did you notice that the overheats happened around one rpm/speed range only or did they happen at significantly different intervals?
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| kamie |
Posted on 09/19/08 - 2:31 PM
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Duf,
I think it's time for the dealer to go for a boat ride.
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| duf |
Posted on 09/19/08 - 7:28 PM
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Dave, its happened at speed and at idle. The last being between 7 and 8 hundred RPMS as i cruised through the no wake zone heading to Ski basin for an afternoon of enjoyment that didn't happen.
Kamie, my words exactly to my dealer. I'm dropping it off and don't call me till the issues are corrected. Its over 40 miles to my dealer and it cost approximately 40 bucks round tirip every time i go. Getting to be way to often and i'm done.
Like i said, hate adding to this thread, but all the ETEC owners need to be hearing this. As far as i know, its just the big block motors that have an issue.
Duf
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| duf |
Posted on 09/27/08 - 5:26 PM
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Ok, hopefully this is the last entry on this thread.
I picked up my boat today and apparently my issues with over-temping, had to do with how i was flushing my motor out. There is an O-ring that seats inside the insert that you remove to utilize the upper portion of the flush option of the ETEC. According to my mechanic, this option is used to flush the motor without starting it, and allows you to flush the entire motor, top to bottom without starting the motor, which makes for happier neighbors at 11PM, or 6am. Normally, you use the lower intackes with the ears, and push the water up into the head. My mistake, was using the upper outlet and allowing the O-ring that i saw, and thought it belonged on the end of the insert. Which, from the first time i pulled it, is where i saw it, to be on the end of the ensert, and not enserted inside the housing for the insert to mate to. Confused yet? Bottom line, i had an O ring in the wrong place which allowed my water pressure to drop significantly enought to overtemp my motor. I will be sending out the new water pressure readings for those of you with the big block ETECS to compare to.
I retrevied my boat and motor today, took a test run, doubled the distance i had that the alarm went off 4 times, had the O ring in the correct position and no alarms.......draw your own conclusions.
God i hope this is the last comment on this thread!!
Still love my ETEC!! ran like a champ today!! Gonna run her like a dog tomorrow!!
Duf 
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| ioptfm |
Posted on 09/27/08 - 5:31 PM
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As a fellow ETEC onwer and lover let me make sure I understand fully. When I flush my motor I connect the garden hose directly into the motor just below the cowling and let it run freely without cranking the motor. During this process water seems to come out of holes all over the place. That's how I was instructed to flush it. My question............Is it harmful to run the motor and let it run in this configuration? If I do run it should I use muffs instead?
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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| duf |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 5:38 AM
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Tom, my mechanic wanted me to use the ears and running the engine, but with the larger intakes, i cannot, so i have to use the insert (once removed) that your water normally spits out of, as you said, just under the cowling. I always run my engine when i do, and have never been instructed, warned etc not to, nor has it every given me any alarms, as the ears did one time. When i purhcased my boat and motor the prior owner did not have an owners manual, i'm about to obtain one, because, i'm getting different opinions from numerous sources, and feel the best guidance is straight out of the manual. If you have one with your motor, thats probably the best source to go by.
Just be careful if you use the water exhaust to make sure that little O ring is seated correctly when you remove the hose and screw the plastic insert back in! 
Duf
Edited by duf on 09/28/08 - 5:39 AM |
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| Doug V |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 8:36 AM
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Duf,
I am glad to hear you were able to get this gremlin worked out.
I have been eyeing Etecs as my preferred repower choice some day (won't be for quite a while) and a hoped that this would straighten itself out in a good way.
Doug
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| ioptfm |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 9:08 AM
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Just be careful if you use the water exhaust to make sure that little O ring is seated correctly when you remove the hose and screw the plastic insert back in!
Duf
On mine I don't remove anything when I connect the garden hose for flusing. It screws directly into the hole we were referring to just below the cowling. I don't have to use an adapter it just screws directly in to it. Maybe my baby motor and your big boy motor are configured a little differently..
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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| duf |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 11:34 AM
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Doug, yes, it appears it's a matter of operator error, and depending on how out of wack the O-ring was, made a difference in the severity of the over temp alarms. Show's the importance of having a manual, and not doing things on the cuff, and because you think this is how it should be. Cost me a pretty penny in fuel back and forth to the dealer, but i have to tip my hat to them, they didn't charge me for was obviously my oversight.
Tom, took some photos of my water discharge and intake on my 225 and will post them if able. If not, i'll send you the photo's via e-mail if you PM me your address.
Ok, i give. How do we attach photos to a thread? Looked at submit photo feature, but don't see how that attaches to a thread.
Duf
Edited by duf on 09/28/08 - 11:37 AM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 11:42 AM
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duff on the cuff....
Click on the "Reply" button and there you will see the attachment feature.
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| kamie |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 12:12 PM
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Tom,
the large block eTec's are configured differently from the smaller block ones. My 175HP is exactly like yours, but it seems the larger blocks are sensitive to keeping the insert in and correctly seated.
Duf,
glad you got it figured out.
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 1:02 PM
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Duf,
Thanks for the follow up, always good to know it was resolved correctly and how that was done. Hopefully you're all set! I've always used the muffs as the other flush port seemed a mystery as to whether the engine could be running or not (wonder how the water pump gets its supply), but according to the manual seems OK.
Here's a link to the on line Operators Manual for the Etec, you'll have to select your specific engine, but it should take you right to the PDF: GUIDE
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| ioptfm |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 1:07 PM
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Tom,
the large block eTec's are configured differently from the smaller block ones. My 175HP is exactly like yours, but it seems the larger blocks are sensitive to keeping the insert in and correctly seated.
Duf,
glad you got it figured out.
--Kamie
Now I know why I didn't put a 225 on mine! 
Thanks Duf and Kamie for the info
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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| duf |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 3:30 PM
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Ah Joe, you are the man! So, took the boat out and ran her at idle for a good 15 mins out to the main channel, then WOT between 57 and 5800 RPM's, 53 MPH(yeah i know a tad high with the RPM's and prolly need to talk to admin Tom on my prop pitch) for about 8 minutes to the no wake zone by Snoopies, then idle again through packery channel, out to the Gulf (tried to raise you Texas Whaler) as the seas were a gentle 1 to 1.5 footers, and ran a good 30 mins down the coast at 3500 rpms, and 30 MPH with no alarms. Did a repeat back to the house. So it appears as Kamie said, the bigger ETEC's are very sensitive to sealed back pressure and even a slight leak will set off your alarm, and over temp your motor. Good news is, she ran like a blender with milk in it.
Note to Doug: In my research it appeared that there is a nagging problem with the sensitivity of the ETEC big blocks and over temping, which is why BRP tossed the immediate fix of the bigger intakes and 10 lb to 7 lb spring change on the blow by valve. So, is that what fixed my overall problem? Have to look at history, and there were no over temps before i purchased the motor and most likely the changed routine on how the motor was rinsed was the culprit in this particular case which was directly initiated by the mis-located O-ring. However, i think there may be a change in the water pump volume/design on the big ETEC's upcoming in the future as i think the sensitivity is an issue, and based on the charts Kamie supplied me, i should have been good to go with the pressure i had. 
Gotta tell you though, the motor ran like a kitten with her belly being rubbed in high gear today!!
Tom. the upper portal is my exhaust, the lower is the water output, and that is the insert i remove to insert a hose to flush the motor.
Dave, you are the man when it comes to manuals, dang, how do you come up with all them! Anyhow, not sure how you do, but it is truly apprecaited!!
Duf
duf attached the following image:
[37.53Kb]
Edited by duf on 09/28/08 - 3:35 PM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 3:39 PM
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duf,
Glad you found the attachment feature.
Now the photo is located on WhalerCentral for all times...
For those of you that may not be aware of this, click on the photo attachment and a larger photo will pop up in a new window.
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| seahorse |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 5:20 PM
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duf wrote:
So it appears as Kamie said, the bigger ETEC's are very sensitive to sealed back pressure and even a slight leak will set off your alarm, and over temp your motor.
Duf,
You can install the Evinrude #775385 quick disconnect flusher and save yourself taking the tell-tale fitiing off every time you want to flush the motor. The kit includes a fitting that stays screwed into your engine and a quick-disconnect fitting that you put on your hose, then you clip them together like an air-hose fitting, snap on, snap off. It is specially designed for your motor, do not try to use a hardware store quick-disconnect fitting.
For others reading this thread, the #775385 quick disconnect flusher kit is ONLY for the big block E-TEC motors and older engines with the removable tell-tale for flushing.
It is NOT for the inline and 60 ° E-TECs as they have a different plumbing system and this kit will cause an EMM overheat problem.
Did I mention that this kit is NOT for the 2 or 3 cylinder E-TEC motors or the 2.6L 60° E-TEC engines?
Edited by seahorse on 09/28/08 - 5:22 PM |
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| seahorse |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 5:31 PM
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duf wrote:
. I will be sending out the new water pressure readings for those of you with the big block ETECS to compare to.
Here is a link to the factory chart of water pressures that you should see.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/23632...8696STUsSu
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| duf |
Posted on 09/28/08 - 7:39 PM
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Seahorse, appreciate the information and will check out the kit you mention. I think the chart you referenced is the same as Kamie's, but will double check and see what i'm pushing. Remember, my Mech and BRP changed my intake and i believe i'm scooping alot more water then i was previously. Bottom line, she's running like a top and not over temping.
Duf
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| duf |
Posted on 09/29/08 - 4:56 PM
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Tom, this is out of the manual for 225's dealing with flushing. As i discussed before, i would look at your year make model for specifics, but for a 225, 2006 ETEC its either or. Ran her again today and no problems, and obtained and installed the flush system Seahorse recommended. Pretty cool but gotta say, doesn't look as cool as the original, but is way faster.
Duf
FLUSHING
If desired, the outboard can be flushed after
each use on a trailer or at dockside while it is
vertical.
1) Place the outboard in an area with good
drainage.
2) Connect garden hose to flushing port.
3) Turn on the water. It is not necessary to
run the engine for a good flushing.
IMPORTANT: The “CHECK ENGINE” or
“CHK ENG” SystemCheck gauge light may illuminate
if you are running the outboard during
the flushing procedure. This is normal.
The outboard will continue to run as long as it
is being supplied with water.
4) Leave the outboard in vertical position long
enough to completely drain the powerhead.
IMPORTANT: If you cannot store the outboard
in the recommended vertical position,
be sure the cooling system is drained completely.
Never place the gearcase higher than
the powerhead. Any water remaining in the
exhaust passages can run into the cylinders
and cause serious damage.
SHORT-TERM (BETWEEN USES
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| ioptfm |
Posted on 09/29/08 - 5:54 PM
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Thanks Duf...............That is the exact procedure that I have been using and I have never run it during the process. Glad you fianlly got all of your problems worked out and are out enjoying the good life again.
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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