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evinrude 100, 1979. no balls, overheating
SToomey006
#41 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/09 - 9:00 PM
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by "going any further" do you mean taking the heads off?


Edited by SToomey006 on 07/08/09 - 9:00 PM
 
Guts
#42 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/09 - 9:13 PM
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yes!!! It is a little hard to do with the heads off...


Edited by Guts on 07/08/09 - 9:14 PM
 
SToomey006
#43 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/09 - 9:40 PM
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haha, yes indeed that makes sense Smile

 
SToomey006
#44 Print Post
Posted on 07/09/09 - 3:35 PM
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Alright so the compression on the 3 other cylinders was 130-135, on the cylinder w/ the mushed plug, it was 113 or so. first time i did it it was about 110, then 2nd and third time was 113. I'm at work right now, but I have to check the manual when i get home. I THOUGHT it said it needs to be greater then 90 or 100, cant rem. COuld be wrong. Oh and as you may have figured, I bought a tester Smile

 
theo
#45 Print Post
Posted on 07/09/09 - 3:56 PM
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The absolute values are less important than how even they are. Rule of thumb is within about 10% of each other, so that last cylinder might be OK if they were all that low, but not so good since the other 3 are quite a bit higher.

The next step is to squirt a little oil into that low cylinder and test it again. (WD40 or 2 stroke oil are fine. Couple of squirts from an oil can.) The idea is that if the rings are bad the oil will help them seal and the compression will come up.

Try that next, but like I said before, something smashed that spark plug. I wouldn't fire it up until I was sure I solved that mystery.

I don't suppose you heard a piece of something rattling around in there when you were doing the compression test? . . . . . Nah, I didn't think so.


Ted
1985 15' CC, 1994 60 hp Merc (Wednesday built), 5" jack plate
 
Guts
#46 Print Post
Posted on 07/09/09 - 5:22 PM
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dito what theo said

 
SToomey006
#47 Print Post
Posted on 07/09/09 - 9:48 PM
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no i didnt hear anythin rattling. only when it was running. it sounded like it was pinging badly, (probably the plug getting hammered) lol. i will squirt some oil in her tomorrow around 2:00pm. thanks guys


 
SToomey006
#48 Print Post
Posted on 07/09/09 - 10:53 PM
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so was just reading my manual. i had those greater than values in my head from when i was attempting to measure powerpack outputs. lol. but anyway, the manual plainly stated the same as far as the importance of consistency in the levels across all cylinders. one thing, probably a stupid question, but the "cylinder ports" are the ports where the plugs screw into correct?


 
Guts
#49 Print Post
Posted on 07/10/09 - 8:22 AM
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I'm waiting to see what happens with the compression with a little two stroke oil... Are you sure you have the correct spark plugs for your model engine. Plugs have different heat ranges, and this makes then different shapes. The ones I ran in my mercury 1000/100hp had no "J" on them they looked like a bull's-eye. When a minor seize happens it could be that one ring is stuck to the piston in only one place, you never know. Lets see if the compression comes up with a little oil. The way I have done it, put the oil in the cylinder then have some one turn the engine over while you put your thumb over the spark plug hole this will allow the oil to seat in the rings and [this will alow the excess oil to blow out past your thumb] then do the test, I have found the hard way that if the oil sits in the cylinder with out doing this it just wants to fill the compression gage with the oil.
....................................................................

A Running Two Stroke Engine...

This will help you under stand what ports are.

http://www.southernskies.net/page_inf...ngine.html
...................................................................

Porting Terminology...

http://2-stroke-porting.com/terminolo...nology.htm
..................................................................

This is a video on porting. I have done this on my jet ski race engines, this guy is a little flakey on this but may help you under stand two cycle port. To port a two stroke, raise the exhaust lower the intake. That's about it. HOW much is where it gets tricky

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-kw9Y...-kw9YOYkg4


Edited by Joe Kriz on 07/10/09 - 10:29 AM
 
SToomey006
#50 Print Post
Posted on 07/10/09 - 12:47 PM
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the compression shot up to 120, added a little more oil, blew it out on my thumb again, tested again, went to 140. ANd thankyou those links are quite helpful Smile.


Edited by SToomey006 on 07/10/09 - 1:04 PM
 
Guts
#51 Print Post
Posted on 07/10/09 - 1:27 PM
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OK I say no seizure good news. now what about those plugs?

 
SToomey006
#52 Print Post
Posted on 07/10/09 - 1:34 PM
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i just put a new plug in it, put the muffs on and ran for5 minutes. no overheating no mushed plug... I'm contemplating taking it for a spin (upcurrent of course). and see how she does under a load.. i have a kicker if she overheats again.
-Sean

 
Joe Kriz
#53 Print Post
Posted on 07/10/09 - 2:28 PM
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What plugs are you using?

Champion ?
QL77JC4 ?
gapped to .030 ?

 
SToomey006
#54 Print Post
Posted on 07/11/09 - 6:24 AM
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yes exactly. sorry bout the delay. i had been using ngk b7hs plugs b4 tho, when the prob occurred. those are gapped to .030 also

 
SToomey006
#55 Print Post
Posted on 07/11/09 - 9:24 AM
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just removed the head. Looks like there was some kind of foreign material inside the cylinder that slammed inbetween the piston and the head a number of times as the top of the piston on the outside and the inside of the head where they meet is all chewed up. cyl walls look ok, im no mechanic, but there is some scoring near where the piston is chewed up. Barely visible but you can diefinitely feel it with your finger

 
SToomey006
#56 Print Post
Posted on 07/11/09 - 9:27 AM
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There isnt anywhere I can post a good sized picture to show this damage is there Joe? besides my personal page, but those pics have to be so small i wonder if you could really see the damage in detail...?


Edited by SToomey006 on 07/11/09 - 9:27 AM
 
Guts
#57 Print Post
Posted on 07/11/09 - 10:04 AM
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This could be part of a reed..go back here dose it look like any of these?

http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/pi..._guide.htm


Edited by Guts on 07/11/09 - 10:17 AM
 
MW
#58 Print Post
Posted on 07/11/09 - 10:55 AM
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Ate a ring ? can you see any small black chunk's of metal in the head or piston top ?


Edited by MW on 07/11/09 - 10:59 AM
Matt
 
SToomey006
#59 Print Post
Posted on 07/11/09 - 1:49 PM
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no, no small black chunks. and theres some side to side play in the piston but not up and down, like between the piston and cylinder is tiny movement, but theres actually more movement of that nature in the other good cylinder. lol. So im not too worried about that. And I think I have it pinned down now. It appears what happened is the porcelain around the electrode broke off, then thats what started banging around in there, chewing everything up, mushing the spark plug, (know this bc theres only one mark where the plug would have hit, and if it kept going im certain, judging by the damge it did to the top of the piston and the head, that there would be much more damage to the piston in the middle, had it actually been hitting the plug w/out anything between it. Friend of mine said he could grind it down to make it smooth again, both top of the piston and the head. I'll next replace the thermostat(s), head gasket and the water jacket gasket? Not sure bout my terminology but i pulled both plates off. The plate itself behind the gasket was clogged, with salt, however im almost certain its not waterflow that was the issue as everything else was clear. But so yea replace the head gasket on wither side, as well as that water jacket gasket?. put together and see what happens?

 
Derwd24
#60 Print Post
Posted on 07/11/09 - 3:36 PM
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Side to side is normal, but if you can make the piston skirt hit the cyl wall, it means the rings aren't suspending the piston properly. No up and down means the wrist pin bearings are in good shape. How is your friend going to resurface the piston in the cylinder (or is he going to take it out)?


Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
 
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