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Console side door
Finnegan	#41  Posted on 02/26/11 - 11:31 AM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	The trim around the front console door is not a ractangular section. See this photo, which also shows some of my re-wiring work: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v42...=R1-25.jpg I can't get to my boat right now, and my memory fails me, but the trim pieces are either an "L" section, or a non-symetrical "U" section, as is shown in the photo. Maybe someone else can help with the dimensions, but I am sure the thickness is 3/4" to match the plywood door thickness.
Gamalot	#42  Posted on 02/26/11 - 11:59 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1086 Comments: 3 Joined: 06/21/10	Thanks Finnegan. I suspected it to be more of a cap that will be relieved from behind so it covers the exposed edges of the glass. Mine will be a little different because I have an aluminum frame I am reworking to fit the hole. Outward it will appear the same as original after I cover the aluminum faces. I am not sure about the design of the original door because it appears to have no stop that would prevent it from going in to the console if pushed to hard to close. I'm still very much in the planning stage for this part.
Finnegan	#43  Posted on 02/26/11 - 10:11 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	If you look at the photo, you will see an aluminum "tab" at the top center that serves as a stop.
modenacart	#44  Posted on 02/27/11 - 7:45 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 741 Comments: 4 Joined: 02/28/09	The large trim on my front console are 25.5' x 1.5' x .75 thick. The length and width are about 1/16 shorter than the dimension, I just rounded up. I think I am misunderstanding Finnegan, mine look rectangle, the edges seem to be eased over just barely. They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety. --Benjamin Franklin
Gamalot	#45  Posted on 02/27/11 - 8:31 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1086 Comments: 3 Joined: 06/21/10	It appears to be recessed in the back so that it forms a cover over the fiberglass edge all the way around rather than just being flat stock applied to the face of the CC. As Finnegan had mentioned it could be a U shape cap and this is a better option for my build that I just completed. I scrapped my idea of using the aluminum frame and just built the door and frame to spec except I used 3.25 inch solid teak boards to make the door instead of plywood which I don't have. It should look like straight from the factory once I round the edges and give it a few coats of oil. Thanks for the 1.5" dimension as I had expected. Edited by Gamalot on 02/27/11 - 11:24 AM
Gamalot	#46  Posted on 03/03/11 - 3:39 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1086 Comments: 3 Joined: 06/21/10	Working on the console now and think I have some wrong materials and need some help. I plan to patch all the holes from behind with plywood and to fill in the holes from the surface. I bought West System #105 Epoxy Resin and #205 Hardener and I have both mat and woven fiberglass cloth. For these hole repairs I bought Spectrum Gel Coat Patch Paste repair in Desert Tan 72-93. I don't remember if the gel coat sticks to only Epoxy Resin or only Polyester resin.
Yiger	#47  Posted on 03/03/11 - 4:03 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 122 Comments: 1 Joined: 12/03/07	Polyester, but poly resin is cheap and readily available. Edited by Yiger on 03/03/11 - 4:05 PM
Finnegan	#48  Posted on 03/03/11 - 4:07 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	The plywood backing worked well for me. I glued it in place with Gorilla Glue. But before I did it, I eased the eges of the holes with a countersink bit so they were beveled. This makes a much better, rough, surface for the filler to bond to. For holes larger than 1" dia, I would lay a little cut to size glass mat in with the resin paste. I would NOT use Epoxy. The gelcoat won't bond to it. Use Evercoat #27, a polyester resin based filler that is easy to work with. After block sanding flush, grind out a recess for the gelcoat cover. The Specturn gelcoat Desert Tan will not match perfectly. It will need to be pre-tinted for a perfect color match. THIS IS WORTH DOING. Experiment a little with it, and you will get good at it. Sometimes it has taken me an hour to achieve the perfect color match. Tint up way more than you need, and save it in a jar in the fridge. I dab the un-catalyized gelcoat onto the boat, check match, then wipe off with a little lacquer thinner. You may have to do this 100 times to get it right! You cannot match correctly by just looking at it in the mixing cup. When dry, block sand with 220 or 400, and check color match. If it's not good, grind it back out and try again. When good, wet sand up through the grades all the way to 2000. I use, 220,400,600,1000,1500 and 2000. Then buff with 3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material, then buff with 3M Finesse-it II, then finish off with Kit Scratch-Out (a glaze). Surface will actually have more gloss depth than original. Always use a wool buffer pad. If your gelcoat color match is perfect, there will be no indication at all that holes were ever there.
Gamalot	#49  Posted on 03/03/11 - 5:14 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1086 Comments: 3 Joined: 06/21/10	What do I use to tint the Spectrum with and where do I get it from? I am assuming that I don't ad the catalyst until I get the color matched. I can probably find the polyester at the local auto store tomorrow. These are the holes I need to fill in and they are one both sides where Antennas were mounted and I have 3/4 inch drilled holes on both sides of the front where wires were passed through. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72...0_0583.jpg The large hole is where a bilge pump switch and breaker will go back in. I have many 1/4 inch drilled holes in the front where the rod holders were and will not be put back on. Will gel coat stick to wood pegs glued in to these holes or should I stuff them with the poly also? Edited by Joe Kriz on 03/15/11 - 6:21 PM
modenacart	#50  Posted on 03/04/11 - 2:04 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 741 Comments: 4 Joined: 02/28/09	What are you doing with the rod holders, I am looking for some? They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety. --Benjamin Franklin
Gamalot	#51  Posted on 03/04/11 - 2:07 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1086 Comments: 3 Joined: 06/21/10	modenacart wrote: What are you doing with the rod holders, I am looking for some? You got them! Drop me an email.
1531665anthony	#52  Posted on 03/13/11 - 9:55 AM
Member Posts: 83 Comments: 3 Joined: 09/16/07	I have a 19ft 1974 outrage. I'm looking for the 4 frame wood parts for the side door. I have the door where can I get those wooden frame pieces? It is for the side door on the center console.Thanks.
Gamalot	#53  Posted on 03/13/11 - 10:10 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1086 Comments: 3 Joined: 06/21/10	1531665anthony wrote: I have a 19ft 1974 outrage. I'm looking for the 4 frame wood parts for the side door. I have the door where can I get those wooden frame pieces? It is for the side door on the center console.Thanks. I'm not 100% sure on this but I believe your console is the same one as mine "Winged Console". If this is the case there was no frame around the side door. It was just a strip for the hinge side and a plywood door with a small piece for the hasp catch. There was also a drip strip over the top.
Gamalot	#54  Posted on 03/15/11 - 6:17 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1086 Comments: 3 Joined: 06/21/10	This is as close as I can get from the pics I have seen of the lower door and frame. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v722/Gamalot/Boat/DSCN0091.jpg[/IMG] I am just about done with the CC and filling and covering all the holes. The spectrum GC patch works great except that when you start to feather it in to the existing GC you have to be very careful you don't go through it. I had to go with Teak covers on the top surface because of all the old electronics and many holes I filled in. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v722/Gamalot/Boat/DSCN0090.jpg[/IMG] The new Teleflex Safe T helm was a real twist for me. when I installed the wheel I had just enough space at the wings of the CC to pinch my fingers. I ended up having to space it out about a half an inch and had to relieve the black plastic bezel to sit flush against the slanted surface. If I had to do it over I am sure the Big T would be a better option. Not as pretty as I would have liked but it will work.
modenacart	#55  Posted on 03/16/11 - 1:55 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 741 Comments: 4 Joined: 02/28/09	Looks good. I like the console door. They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety. --Benjamin Franklin
Finnegan	#56  Posted on 03/24/11 - 3:47 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	Gamalot - You've done a beautiful job on that console. Nice work!
Gamalot	#57  Posted on 03/24/11 - 4:39 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1086 Comments: 3 Joined: 06/21/10	Thanks Finnegan. The woodwork comes pretty easy for me with a shop full of tools for it. Fiberglass and Gel Coat are giving me fits.