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Short Shaft Options (New) For A 1969 13
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| thegage |
Posted on 07/09/10 - 11:15 AM
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My goals in an engine were (not surprisingly) to maximize HP with the least weight and cost. Since there will eventually be young boys piloting this boat 40 hp is too much, and in any case there's no 40 4-stroke that I would put on the back of an old 13-foot Whaler due to weight. For example, the 15" Tohatsu 40 is at least 50 lbs. heavier than the 30 E-TEC, plus something like $2000 more. The simplest Honda 30 (no power T/T, short shaft), in spite of what the website claims, is a few lbs. heavier than the E-TEC and of smaller displacement, is carbureted, and also significantly more expensive. Plus, I like the performance characteristics of a 2-stroke. Given my goals, it seemed I had to compromise on the shaft length.
John K.
Edited by thegage on 07/09/10 - 11:19 AM |
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| LabCab |
Posted on 07/09/10 - 9:08 PM
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Have you thought about adding the CMC PT-30 jackplate? It's an aftermarket tilt and trim for out boards up to 35hp. It costs about $490 and will give you the ability to fine tune the trim of your motor. It only weighs 24 lbs. Try doing a search on it. There seems to be a lot of satisfied Whaler customers. I'm considering one as I boat in shallow waters. Cabella's website has a PDF of the installation instructions but I think iBoats has the best price.
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| thegage |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 5:43 AM
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I'm looking at the CMC (the manual one) as well as options from TH Marine and Bob's. I'm pretty much a set-it-and-forget-it kind of guy, so adjustability during operation isn't a big deal. I like the Bob's Mini Jack Plate as it is fairly adjustable, has a small setback, and is pretty light.
John K.
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 7:59 AM
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thegage wrote:
As an experiment (and using some oak and aluminum wedges) I did manage to raise the engine to the next hole up and tilt it slightly outward on the transom. Total lift was probably something around an inch-and-a-half. The AV plate is still below the hull line, but not nearly as bad. Good news is that the rooster tail went away, top speed increased--but so did porpoising. At least I know the direction I have to go and will now turn to a jack plate.
John K.
Can you post a pic of where the cavitation plate is to the transom? My guess is you still might need to go higher with the motor. I think for best results the cavitation plate should be just under the waterline at full RPM.
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| thegage |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 8:22 AM
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I agree that the motor needs to go yet higher. I spent a little more time yesterday checking things. On the trailer the AV plate it still about an inch below the hull line, while on the water under full power it's more like an inch-and-a-half below the surface. Once I have a jack plate I can fine tune.
John
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| Mr Whaler |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 8:26 AM
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I have a Tohatsu 40hp 2-stroke. I bought it brand new as a left-over, for $1500! and it runs GREAT. By far my favorite engine, and i also own evinrudes, mariners, and a yamaha. Actually think it has more torque than an e-tec of the same HP. The only problem is my '69 13' whaler goes 45mph with it, so might not be the best idea for young boys. but still an overall GREAT engine. this engine has electric start and power t/t.
Rob
1969 13' - 2001 Tohatsu 40hp
More Boats than Brains |
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| Mr Whaler |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 8:27 AM
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oh and its oil injected, so you dont have to mix gas
Rob
1969 13' - 2001 Tohatsu 40hp
More Boats than Brains |
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 9:11 AM
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I'm still at a loss as to why you would need a jackplate if you bought the kenfab adapter?
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| thegage |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 11:15 AM
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For the simple reason that the Transdapter--surprisingly--does not raise the engine enough on my boat.
John K.
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| thegage |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 3:00 PM
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I've put a few images on my personal page. You can see the installed Transdapter. The top edge slopes down toward the center, which I guess has something to do with lower height. I also show the temporary shims, as well as the position of the anti-ventilation plate relative to the bottom (still low).
John K.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 3:13 PM
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That motor does look like it is mounted too low.
I wonder if anyone that has the transdapter is having the same problem?
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 3:15 PM
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I really don't see the need for the shims at the bottom.
Just move the manual tilt rod into hole 2 or hole 3.
This will prevent the engine from tucking too far in.
That's what the manual tilt rod is for.
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| thegage |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 6:16 PM
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Joe, the point of the metal shims was to lever the mounting bracket forward on the wooden shims thereby adjusting its angle such that it raised the engine more than simply with the wood. I intend(ed) them to be temporary and merely a means to get the engine higher and confirm my suspicions. Once I have a jack plate I will indeed get rid of them.
John K.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 6:33 PM
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I understand.
But I still see your manual tilt pin in the first hole.
That doesn't appear to be correct to me.
I remember on my 13', I had that pin in the 2nd or 3rd hole...
I'm sure you understand that the pin is how you adjust the engine for tilt.
Now I know why I spent $600 to convert to Power Trim & Tilt on my next boat which was the Montauk.
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 6:52 PM
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Forget about using the threaded engine clamps. They won't work for your application. From what I can see in the pics you need to drill two holes higher up on each side for the motor mounts. Mount with through bolts on the motor mount not the clamps. The engine in the pics is way low.
Joe is right. The tilt pin needs to go up a notch or two.
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| todd12 |
Posted on 07/10/10 - 7:54 PM
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I had the same issue with my 1971 model 13' notched transom. I asked a member here to get a measurement from the bottom of the transom to the top . The measurement I asked for followed the angle of the transom. It was taken from a late 70's early 80's model with a factory 20" transom. If I remeber correctly the measurement was 21.5 inches. I set my adapter plate to 22" as my cavitation plate was still alittle low . I probably could of went 23". You could also get a welder to raise the kentfab transadapter buy adding additional aluminum ?
Edited by todd12 on 07/10/10 - 8:04 PM
Todd |
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| thegage |
Posted on 07/12/10 - 5:48 PM
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John Fyke wrote:
Forget about using the threaded engine clamps. They won't work for your application. From what I can see in the pics you need to drill two holes higher up on each side for the motor mounts. Mount with through bolts on the motor mount not the clamps. The engine in the pics is way low.
Joe is right. The tilt pin needs to go up a notch or two.
Actually, the threaded clamps are essential with the E-TEC 30 (and 15 and 25). There are only lower bolt holes on each side of the mount, not an upper and lower bolt hole like on the bigger engines.
And yes, the tilt pin is low, but that is temporary to offset the porpoising caused by a too-low engine. I'll even everything out once I have it up at the right height.
John K.
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 07/12/10 - 6:24 PM
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thegage wrote:
John Fyke wrote:
Forget about using the threaded engine clamps. They won't work for your application. From what I can see in the pics you need to drill two holes higher up on each side for the motor mounts. Mount with through bolts on the motor mount not the clamps. The engine in the pics is way low.
Joe is right. The tilt pin needs to go up a notch or two.
Actually, the threaded clamps are essential with the E-TEC 30 (and 15 and 25). There are only lower bolt holes on each side of the mount, not an upper and lower bolt hole like on the bigger engines.
And yes, the tilt pin is low, but that is temporary to offset the porpoising caused by a too-low engine. I'll even everything out once I have it up at the right height.
John K.
I see what your saying. What a fiasco that is. Brilliant engineering. Sorry.
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| LabCab |
Posted on 07/12/10 - 10:14 PM
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I just looked at your personal page. The Kentfab adaptor slopes in the center. You should phone them and ask them to look at the pictures on your personal page. They are a fabrication company and you paid close to $500 for a product designed to work with an older Whaler and a longshaft motor. I bet they will work with you. Others on this site have described Mr. Kent as a good guy who produces a great product. The fault is either with his product or the tech who installed the motor. I'm thanking my lucky stars I managed to find a short shaft motor!
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| number9 |
Posted on 07/13/10 - 8:25 PM
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thegage wrote:
For the simple reason that the Transdapter--surprisingly--does not raise the engine enough on my boat.
John K.
John,
Have you measured the motor's actual shaft/transom length and the transom height with the adapter installed? Many OBs in the portable to mid power range have shafts longer than the advertised S and L lengths.
Bill...On the Ogeechee
1984 Outrage 18...Yamaha T50...that's right, 50hp |
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