13' with Evinrude 50hp
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theo |
Posted on 07/29/09 - 3:12 PM
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You might find a replaceable fuel filter under the cowling.
BTW, I tilted a 150 Merc for several years just by grabbing hold and leaning back (with a little "thrust". And we did the same with an old 33 1/3 and a 40. Shouldn't be that tough to tilt a 50. But I do like PTT!
Ted
1985 15' CC, 1994 60 hp Merc (Wednesday built), 5" jack plate |
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BwhalerBil |
Posted on 07/30/09 - 6:19 AM
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The problem you describe is the same that I experienced with my 1985 Johnson 40 HP (1985 VRO removed). Being that the Johnson & Evinrude are the same engine as well as the difference between a 40 and 50 HP is all done with a change to the carbs. The engine had sat several years prior to me purchasing and no mater what I attempted to run thru the fuel system could not get the engine to function more than a few moments. This included pumping the bulb as the engine ideled. The Carbs wher taken off and professionaly overhauled by Lochman's ( old time Johnson-Evinrude dealer in Detroit) PROBLEM SOLVED.
The boat now runs excellent @ high and low speed with the manual trim in the center hole position. On really calm conditions (Lake St.Clair -rare in summer) I move the pin out one position and the boat flies.
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Turpin |
Posted on 07/30/09 - 7:40 AM
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Another thing you might try that is not costly is spark plugs. I didn't see in earlier post where you had mentioned if so sorry. My 35 Evinrude was also suffering from sputtering during idle, I removed carb and gave it soaking. I reinstalled the carb, it was better but would still sputter just not as bad. I changed the spark plugs and it smoothed right up.
1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude
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MidcoastMike |
Posted on 07/31/09 - 5:05 AM
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So I tinkered with the engine yesterday to see if I could apply any easy fixes for my idle issue. There is no inline fuel filter, so nothing to replace. I found the fuel pump, but didn't want to take that apart. The spark plugs both had a lot of carbon, and one was loose. I replaced them. At that point, after a couple of test starts and idles, it continued to show the same symptoms.
Then I began to watch the engine components during the startup and throughout the cycle. The warm up lever pushes the carbs open/closed as you move it up/down. When the warm up lever was put in the full down position, it would allow the carb to pretty much fully close, thus choking off to die. There is an adjustment lever (with one screw) that connects the warm up lever to the lower carb. I moved the adjustment lever to allow the carb to stay more open - it's not easy to be precise with it. Too much and the engine screams like a banshee (ahhhh shut it off!) - too little and it chokes. The position of the adjustment lever between those two extremes is very small. I set it to a point where the engine will idle longer than it would before, but it's still not great since it cannot just sit idling for very long. At least I can get it into gear before it dies.
Some of the other components that ultimately connect warm up lever to the adjustment lever seem like they are less precise than they should be, and allow the whole system to vary. Grrrr. I'll keep tinkering. So, at this point, I don't think dirty carbs is the issue.
Mike
1998 Conquest 21 - 2005 Yamaha F225 |
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CES |
Posted on 07/31/09 - 5:24 AM
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From what I am reading about your carbon build up, running some "Ring Free" (which is a Yamaha product but still good for other motors) in your gas to free up the carbon in your engine. That stuff is like a "Tune up in a bottle'.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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MidcoastMike |
Posted on 07/31/09 - 5:30 AM
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Yep, I'm with you Cliff. I sprayed a whole can of Evinrude Engine Tuner into the carbs last week. And I will be putting one of the carbon buster additives in the gas tanks as well.
Mike
1998 Conquest 21 - 2005 Yamaha F225 |
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BwhalerBil |
Posted on 08/07/09 - 6:08 AM
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Mike:
How has your attempt at a fix in the bottle worked out? At the risk of sounding repetitive I still think the problem lies in the overhaul of the carbs. Correctely rebuilt and adjusted, with good even compression in the cylinders, will make the engine idle and run as exepcted.
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MidcoastMike |
Posted on 08/07/09 - 6:59 AM
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Just to be sure, I first addressed all the simple things: carb cleaner spray, new plugs, new gas line. No such luck - problem is still there. So, yes I think a carb rebuild will be necessary. I have the factory service manual, and have seen online videos, but I'm not sure I will have the opportunity to do the work myself. Any ballparks on what should I expect to pay a shop for a carb rebuild?
Mike
1998 Conquest 21 - 2005 Yamaha F225 |
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Turpin |
Posted on 07/01/12 - 3:21 AM
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I have a 1990 Evinrude 50hp and thought I would add a bit to this old thread. My engine had sat for 4 yrs. and what gas last used had turned to crystals in the carbs hoses and such. I cleaned the carbs, fuel pump and replaced fuel lines.
On my test run it would not take a load at wide open throttle (though that was not this gentleman's problem) I rebuilt the carbs and still experienced the same problem. It was then I noticed the the linkage/lever that comes from the ignition contacting the carbs had a decent gap. I was missing part of the roller sleeve. With roller sleeve installed engine ran great on mid and top end.
There is another sleeve/ roller assembly in between the throttle and shifter linkage and part of mine was missing causing the engine to sometimes go slightly out of time at idle depending where they lined up when you pulled throttle to neutral. The engine would idle rough, low, high or not not at all sometimes. once this sleeve between shifter and throttle linkage was fixed engine smoothed right up and idle fine, no longer stumbling.
Just an F.Y.I. on a possible thing to look for should anyone ever have a similar problem as I have no idea how or when these sleeves disappeared but I didn't loose them they were just gone.
1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude
Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable |
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