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83 OUTRAGE just delivered! PICS up!!
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| In2Deep |
Posted on 11/19/08 - 2:28 PM
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Oh the first thing I did when I got the boat was open them up to see what was inside. Yes I do have a heated garage!!
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| In2Deep |
Posted on 11/19/08 - 7:40 PM
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A few questions,is it normal to have moisture under those beckson(round) deck plates,what does the presence of this moisture mean? The fuel tank says Florida Marine tanks, is it OEM? The deck/hatch that encompasses pratically the entire inside floor of the boat seems to have been siliconed in. I guess it was eiter taken out for some reason or was allowing water in. The mechanical fuel gauge under the clear window was full of water and the aera around it had this jelly like goop around the mount on the tank. Man I hope this boat dosent have a water intrusion problem .
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| WhalerDan |
Posted on 11/19/08 - 7:52 PM
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I think moisture is normal, florida marine is OEM, many boats have the seams resealed/recaulked
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| Eggman |
Posted on 11/20/08 - 1:25 PM
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Hello and congratulations on your "NEW" Whaler. I also have a 1983 Outrage. Mine is a V20 Outrage with the Original Johnson 175 on her. I bought her for $6000 boat, motor and trailer and put $4000. in to her. Now with $10,000 in to her I'm not sur I could get that for her but she's not for sale anyway. If you have the same boat I can try to help you with some of the problems I found and what I did to fix them. EggMan
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| In2Deep |
Posted on 11/20/08 - 3:14 PM
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Hey Eggman sounds like you did quite a bit of work,the boat I bought is actually a 1983 Outrage 18 with twin Yamaha 70's. Im sure my boat will have similiar issues,heres my short list so far; replace the fuel filler hose,put hinges on the bow hatch,replace and repair the bow/lifting ring,repair the keel under the bow,replace the screws in the rails with SS rivets,give her a good cleaning(compound/wax,etc),refinish the teak,finally figure out how to start her so I can winterize! Shes currently in my heated garage,so I figure I have all winter to tinker. I am up in the air about trying to repail the stress/spider cracks,I cant tell if they are just superficial(gel coat only) or go deeper into the fiberglass? A big concern for me is matching the desert tan color.
Any advice is much appreciated.
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 11/20/08 - 3:25 PM
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Jerry,
We purchased an '83 Outrage 22 in very similar condition to yours a year ago last spring. I remember feeling the same way you described when you got her home and looked her over, seeing all that needed to be done. But once you get familiar with the boat, it becomes yours and will all be second nature in short order. Plus I've read great things about twin engines on the back, that's a real big bonus in the larger picture!
My bow rails were held together with tape in places from the previous owner, which gives you an idea of his level of maintenance. Riveting will make them surprisingly solid. The thing you want to check is that the railing base is firmly screwed into the hull, and more importantly that the two set screws in each base that hold the vertical rail in place are tight and haven't let the rail slip down and contact the gelcoat under the base. This can be a prime area for water to get in. Loctite on these screws is very good insurance against that happening.
Post or PM with any other questions, we'd all be glad to answer!
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| In2Deep |
Posted on 11/20/08 - 3:46 PM
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thanks Dave ,its the worst feeling when your excited about new purchase awaiting its delivery,only when it pulls up, dissapointment,man its going to ake more work to get this boat to where Ill be happy with it!
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| In2Deep |
Posted on 11/22/08 - 7:51 PM
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Well thanks Rob,I just uploaded the pics to my personal page. Let me know what you think the best way is to tackle the bow lifting ring and keel. Thanks.
Edited by In2Deep on 11/22/08 - 7:51 PM |
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| In2Deep |
Posted on 11/22/08 - 8:15 PM
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I guess my main concern right now is getting the engines up and running,winterizing them,repairing the hull,bow lifting ring and keel,trailer and electrical.LMK.
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/ppimages/10777/83outrage9.jpg[/img]
Edited by Joe Kriz on 11/22/08 - 10:27 PM |
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| WhalerDan |
Posted on 11/23/08 - 1:11 PM
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Hi All,
I visited Jerry earlier today and saw the boat. He got a great deal, and it's in good condition. Great to see this Whaler going to such a nice guy. Good luck Jerry.
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| In2Deep |
Posted on 11/23/08 - 3:49 PM
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Thanks Dan,good to know theres another whaler fanatic so close by. Thanks for the advice and tips. Cant wait for the spring.
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| WhalerDan |
Posted on 11/23/08 - 5:13 PM
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Jerry, here's a link to the gelcoat patch kit I was telling you about: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Boston...iesQ5fGear
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| In2Deep |
Posted on 11/23/08 - 5:57 PM
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Thats too funny I already ordered one! I also obtained the contact # for Sue@ Twin Cities Marine,Ill call her tomorrow and order some of the parts Im missing. I also went on the Mills site but couldnt get any idea of priceing,or 10% discount info? cheers
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| WhalerDan |
Posted on 11/23/08 - 7:02 PM
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You have to call Mills to order, and the 10 percent is for the month of November. They will give you the info over the phone. Their web site is good to see fabric choices, -- you have the Pacific Blue Sunbrella mateial.
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| In2Deep |
Posted on 11/24/08 - 7:11 PM
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Well after removing the port panel over the fuel and vent hoses I found a plastic bag with a yellow paper from the BW factory wit the dates and initials of the workers that finished the jobs,pretty cool.
I laso found more moisture where the hoses exit from under the deck. I am afraid I will have to remove the deck ? Any input/ advice would be appreciated. Thanks,Jerry
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 11/24/08 - 7:18 PM
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Jerry,
It seems you are bound and determined to pull up that deck no matter what anyone tries to explain to you.
Here is what I said on the first page of your thread:
First, inspect underneath the deck by opening up all the deck plates.
Clean everything out that you can reach.
Use your nose and smell for fuel. How much fuel is in the tank?
Do you smell any fuel?
I would not lift the deck up unless you see or smell fuel under the deck.
If you need to remove the deck to replace the tank, then yes, the console needs to be removed along with all the wiring.
You really don't want to do this unless you have to.
So, go ahead and pull the deck if it will make you feel better but all of these models are going to have moisture.
Even washing to boat down will give you moisture underneath the fuel cover. It is NORMAL...
Pools of fuel are NOT normal...
This is my last post on this subject.
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| In2Deep |
Posted on 11/24/08 - 8:05 PM
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No Joe I definately would rather not have to pull up the deck,especially after reasearching the threads ,etc., it seems like a PITA. My fear is twofold first,leaving water against the tank will promote corrosion and that I unecessarily put alot of time ,energy and money into a hull that has a water intrusion or a leaking gas tank problem. If it has to be done Id rather do it over the 6 month winter while Im not using the boat. I dont want to beat a dead horse and you have much more experience with these boats,so I take what you say as gospel. I dont smell gas through the beckson plates except the one closest to the bow where the vent hose exits the tank. Which brings up another issue,replacing the hoses,can it be done without removing the deck? Im pretty sure the filler hose can be changed but the rest,Im not to sure. what would you recommend? Let me repeat myself I DONT want to pull up the deck!Thanks.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 11/24/08 - 9:42 PM
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Ok Jerry,
Yes, the hoses can be replaced without removing the deck. I have never done it myself but have looked closely at them and heard of others that have replaced theirs without taking up the deck.
There will always be moisture in there. What most of us do that trailer our boats is take off the deck plates while the boat is sitting in the garage. This airs out the underneath of the deck. Even after mine sits all winter with the deck plates off, one hot day in the sun using the boat, the clear deck plate shows water droplets underneath. Nothing we can do about it. The tank will sweat.
When I wash the boat, I will get water underneath the tank cover. Can't be helped.
When it rains when I am boating, water gets under there. Can't be helped.
Can you take off the fuel hose to your motor and pump some gas using the fuel bulb into a glass mayonnaise jar? That will tell you if you have any water inside the fuel tank.
Mine is an original 1985 tank with original fill and vent hoses up front.
The hoses from the rear of the tank to the engines have been replaced.
I also have a fuel/water separator between the tank and the engine(s).
At the cheaper price of fuel these days, it might not be a bad idea to put about 30 gallons of fuel into your tank. You have never replied on how much fuel you have in there so if it is empty, you won't really know if it leaks unless you put fuel in it.
If it does end up leaking after putting a lot of fuel in their, then you can pump the gas out and use it in your lawnmower, chainsaws, or something similar.
Let us know what you find out.
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| In2Deep |
Posted on 11/25/08 - 4:08 AM
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Joe,I have a half tank according to the mechanical gauge,which by the way is full of water/condensation. Its supposed hermetically sealed but mine seems to have some cracke in the lense. As long as it works accurately,Ill plan on leaving it.
lll work on getting a sample of the fuel from the tank. Would you recommend sealing the deck seams with the correct sealant, which I found out is still available from Twin Cities.
My filler hose is falling apart at its attachment to the tank,probably from the ethanol.
Joe I do appreciate your advice.
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| kamie |
Posted on 11/25/08 - 6:59 AM
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Jerry,
First question, what is the HIN# of your hull?
Without filling the tank you can't accurately weight the hull to determine if you have water. I agree with Joe, pull some gas out of the tank into a clear jar and let it set. This will tell you if you have water in the gas that is in there. If you can smell gas it does not automatically point to the need to replace the fuel tank. If your fill hose is already shot, your vent hose isn't far behind. This could be the source of the gas smell.
You do not have to pull up the deck totally to replace the hoses but it sometimes helps to loosen the parameter screws. You have to work the vent hose up and over the tank straps. It can also be a tight fit to get both the vent and fill hoses up on the port side. The hoses of today are a slightly larger outside diameter then the older ones currently on your boat.
You should also probably dig out and replace the caulk even if you don't have to lift the tank cover. When I first got my 18, the caulking looked ok, but I still got lots of water below the cover. Once I dug out the old caulk and replaced it with new the amount of water decreased. You will never eliminate it, but caulking gets old and needs to be replaced every couple years.
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