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Quick check for wood finishing techniques
Grady95
#21 Print Post
Posted on 02/21/08 - 7:59 AM
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What do you thin the varnish with?
Grady

 
danedg
#22 Print Post
Posted on 02/21/08 - 10:57 AM
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Mineral spirits

 
makanihula
#23 Print Post
Posted on 02/21/08 - 1:04 PM
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Robb White once wrote about how he gets wood to really absorb epoxy or varnish; he turned up the wood stove in his shop to almost 120 degrees, then opened the windows and doors and applied the first coat to a boat. As the wood cooled, it drank the liquid deep into the pores. I always use this technique to an extent, making sure the wood was warm and in a cooling state rather than in a warming up state (which expels the liquid and creates bubbles).


Edited by makanihula on 02/21/08 - 1:05 PM
 
Grady95
#24 Print Post
Posted on 03/23/08 - 7:23 AM
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An Update:

After sanding and prep, the RPS wood pieces have been oiled with Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak. The material is easy to work with, dries in one day to allow a next coat and does not turn the teak orange. UV protection was considered highly in the decision, as was the ability to mend damage or maintain as needed. This is a small boat so the concept of periodic maintenance is not an intimidation. This point was touched on many times and would be more applicable to a discussion of a boat with more wood, like a sailboat.

The console doors and anchor locker pieces were milled out of marine teak plywood, both 3/4 and 1/2 inch as needed to match the OEM. The cut surfaces were sealed with West Marine Epoxy 105 and then the flat surfaces were done with Cetol. Cut plywood fails over time at the cut surfaces, not on the flat areas. Hopefully, this approach will hold those cut areas together. There was no cosmetic problem with this approach. The epoxy was applied before the oil was done to assure a good adhesion.

My expectations were never to simply apply one finish, one time and not have to do periodic maintenance. Such a goal is not realistic. Oil cares for the wood, is attractive, is reasonably easy to apply and maintain, is not particularly technique sensitive and is readily available.

A side note: My opinion of Cetol Marine Teak Oil is that the material does not turn teak orange. It brings out the grain pattern nicely. It looks like teakwood with oil on it! Sounds overly simplistic, but there seems to be quite a controversy about this. These are my direct observations for what they are worth.

Grady

 
Yiger
#25 Print Post
Posted on 03/23/08 - 8:15 AM
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Sounds like you are very happy with your final product, glad to hear it. In response to your side note, I'm pretty certain the Cetol finish that people say turns the teak orange is not an oil, but a gloss finish. I have had issues with the orange color in the past, though I admit that I have not used their new teak product, nor have I heard any bad reviews about it. Oil products should never turn teak orange though.

 
Binkie
#26 Print Post
Posted on 03/23/08 - 10:22 AM
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If you don`t want to delute the varnish by using mineral spirits, try this. Boil a pot of water on the stove. Take the pot of boiling water off the stove, and immerse an open can of varnish in the pre boiled water. when the varnish starts to steam it is ready to varnish with. An old time boat painter tole me this almost 50 years ago. IT really works well, when the can of varnish cools a bit put it back in the water.

Rich

 
howard Werner
#27 Print Post
Posted on 03/23/08 - 1:24 PM
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scrimshaw wrote:
My basement is currently filled with wood in various stages of Sikkens application,I like what I see.


I assume that you have finished or are near finished.....

ok so how do you like it?

I am thinking about using Silkens Cetrol Natural Teak. But a highly respected fellow recommended Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane.

Before I "go for it" I am looking for some feedback.....


Edited by howard Werner on 03/23/08 - 1:26 PM
 
scrimshaw
#28 Print Post
Posted on 03/23/08 - 2:22 PM
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I'm happy with my results, 3 coats of Sikkens and 2 coats of Sikkens Gloss. All my wood was prevoiusly treated with this product thus I followed up. The console on the boat was returned to a new finish only with light sanding, a wipe off with primer and 1 coat of the product, Sikkens refers to this as a "maintenance coat"I have no idea of how long that finish has been on the wood but was impressed with the ease of it's return to a new look. I haven't been able to apply any gloss on the console yet due to weather but anticipate the continued ease of application. A few peices were stripped of old product with a chemical stripper and a blade with little effort. I'll post some pictures of the completed project soon. A full season in the sun will be the test !


Edited by scrimshaw on 03/24/08 - 3:14 AM
 
Jeff
#29 Print Post
Posted on 03/23/08 - 3:01 PM
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Every whaler I have seen that uses the Sikkens Cetol Finish the teak looks very orange. Almost a pukey color. Is there a Sikkens clear finish that you have found to work well that does not change the natural color of the wood?


1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
 
scrimshaw
#30 Print Post
Posted on 03/23/08 - 5:52 PM
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Jeff,Sikkens makes a gloss but they don't suggest using it without the other stuff 1st, the "pukey color" you refer to is OK with me.


scrimshaw attached the following image:


[96.82Kb]
Edited by scrimshaw on 03/25/08 - 11:29 AM
 
CapnJs
#31 Print Post
Posted on 08/07/08 - 6:12 PM
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Grady,

Do you have any photos of the Cetol Marine Natural Teak on the RPS? Also how is it holding up?

Jack

 
Grady95
#32 Print Post
Posted on 08/08/08 - 6:51 AM
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Let me look through some photos Jack. I'll get back to you. The finish is holding up just fine. It's not really glossy but it's water repellant and to my eye, it is not orange.
Grady

 
CapnJs
#33 Print Post
Posted on 08/08/08 - 5:19 PM
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Grady,

Thanks, don't put yourself out looking for photos because I put the first coat on mine today. I built my seat back out of mahogany instead of teak. I put three coats of Cetol Marine Natural Teak finish on a piece of scrap mahogany before I started and I don't think it's orange either. I like the finish because I didn't want it glossy. This is almost exactly what I wanted.

I'm glad to hear it's holding up well.

I'll post a couple of photos and it would be interesting to compare the Cetol on my mahogany with your teak.

Jack

 
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