Making a Stern Light for 13 footer?
|
Joe Kriz |
Posted on 01/30/08 - 11:13 AM
|
Site Owner
Personal Page
Personal Album
Photo Albums
Project Albums
Posts: 11447
Comments:
452
Joined: 03/18/05
|
See the parts photos on the stern light.
This is the Perko series.
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...photo_id=6
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...photo_id=8
|
|
|
|
Jan Bindas |
Posted on 04/18/08 - 3:06 PM
|
Member
Posts: 14
Comments:
3
Joined: 04/15/08
|
I repaired my stern light by removing the top of the old light from the chrome over brass tubing by clamping the tubing, removing the wiring and socket, and heating the top with a propane torch. It came off quite easily. I replace the tubing with SS tubing from a marine outlet. I reinstalled the top and sealed it on with 3M 5200 and tapped it down. It worked great and only cost a "few dollars" in Boater's parlance.
Now I am in need of the split bushing for the light. Any help on making one as the replacement is waaaaay tooooooo expensiiiiiiiiive.
|
|
|
|
Tom W Clark |
Posted on 04/18/08 - 9:10 PM
|
Member
Personal Page
Posts: 4280
Comments:
7
Joined: 09/30/05
|
The OE split ring for the stern light of a small classic Whaler costs a but a few dollars from any Whaler dealer. Why is that "waaaaay tooooooo expensiiiiiiiiive"?!
|
|
|
|
Jan Bindas |
Posted on 08/16/08 - 12:16 PM
|
Member
Posts: 14
Comments:
3
Joined: 04/15/08
|
Tom W Clark wrote:
The OE split ring for the stern light of a small classic Whaler costs a but a few dollars from any Whaler dealer. Why is that "waaaaay tooooooo expensiiiiiiiiive"?!
|
|
|
|
Jan Bindas |
Posted on 08/16/08 - 12:47 PM
|
Member
Posts: 14
Comments:
3
Joined: 04/15/08
|
The split ring is no longer available as a seperate item, you need to buy the entire part, which is about $35.00 for the top light holder. So I made one for $.35. I sawed off about 1/4 inches from a 1 inch pvc connecter, cut a split in it and wrapped it around the light pole and took off material until I had about 1/4 space between the split when wrapped tightly around the pole. I put it in the compression knurled nut and it worked great!. Remember to use a connector larger than the pole otherwise when you unscrew the knurled knob the ring won't expand and the pole won't slide easily. I made a spare split ring/bushing from the opposite side of the pvc.
|
|
|
|
CES |
Posted on 08/17/08 - 12:20 PM
|
Member
Personal Page
Photo Albums
Project Albums
Posts: 2681
Comments:
7
Joined: 04/27/07
|
Jan Bindas.
Could you please post a few pictures? I would like to put a longer stern light on my 13 as there is a short "Wal-Mart" type stern light on it now.
Thanks.
Cliff
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
|
|
|
Jan Bindas |
Posted on 08/22/08 - 6:26 PM
|
Member
Posts: 14
Comments:
3
Joined: 04/15/08
|
CES
I don't have pictures to post, what do you wish to reivew? I had the existing stanchions on the vessel, and the stern light pole had been shortened as it easily crushes when a ski tow rope accidently gets caught behind it. To be honest the longer pole (which when properly modified sits 3 meters above the bow nav light) vibrates a lot when underway and you hit any sizeable waves. If you are not keeping the whaler original with the older stern light, I would just get the low profile, low glare all around lights from perko and even try the LED lights which won't blow out in rough seas. Also they are much lighter as opposed to the very heavy chrome over brass light base on the original whaler stern light. The connector on my light is a Cole Hersy two prong round connector. These are very resistant to the salt water and connect and disconnect easily and stary connected. In addition it slides up through the holes in the stanchion when stowing the stern light.
Jan
|
|
|