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Premixing Oil and Gas
Pete
#21 Print Post
Posted on 12/11/07 - 7:03 AM
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I replaced my original VRO on my 1984 Johnson 90. I estimate 500 hours on the engine. This was a no wire vro which would probably scare most of you. I used the engine as it was for most of the season with no issues. I did replace the VRO oil tank first which had cracks in the top. The hose was in good condition, flexible with no signs of problems. Both fuel and oil lines under the hood were bad. They all had cracks and also broken ties which were difficult to see until you dug into it.
My new VRO out of the box was bad and had air leaks through the housing. I sent it back and the replacement 4 wire VRO now installed is a champ. Both low oil and no oil work just fine.
I don't use the boat much but when I do I'll use and fill my 27 gal tank 2 or 3 times when I'm out for 2 days. I love the VRO. It makes fueling easy for me.
Pete

 
Set_The_Hook
#22 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/08 - 3:25 PM
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Well I searched for this topic, so I would not start a new thread. I hope some one responds.
Question-How do you know if the VRO is working before it is too late?
I just bought a used boat and it has a 1993 120 hp Evinrude. This is the first engine that I have owned with the VRO that I have owned. I also heard from a guy who was told by a mechanic that the vro should be disconnected. I personally do not want to do this.

I have ck'd the lines, tank ect and all looks good and it runs like a top. Will the buzzer go off if it does not get any oil? I do not know

Thanks
Mike

 
Derwd24
#23 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/08 - 3:38 PM
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Mike,

Check out Joe's article on testing the warning horns, give it a go, and when you're done you can be assured that all is working properly. Like you, I think it's wise to keep the VRO.

http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...ticle_id=9

Dave

 
Set_The_Hook
#24 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/08 - 3:42 PM
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Thank You for that link
Mike

 
Binkie
#25 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/08 - 4:01 PM
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Bob, I think the kicker should have its own fuel system. Many breakdowns to the main motor are fuel relatedShock, so the separate kicker tank is insurance against fuel related problems to both motors.
Rich

 
Joe Kriz
#26 Print Post
Posted on 02/28/08 - 4:10 PM
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Mike,

There is another way to check if the VRO is pumping oil and is also recommended if an owner changes out the oil tank or replaces oil lines etc...

1. Fill the VRO Oil Tank to the proper level and put some kind of mark on the tank.
2. Run pre-mix fuel from a portable fuel tank
Now, after running for 1/2 to an hour, check and see if the oil in the VRO tank has dropped below the mark you made. If it has, then the VRO pump is pumping oil.

I had to do this once when I purchased a new oil tank to replace my old and cracking one.

Like Dave mentions above, check your warning horn system.
The only one you will not be able to check is the "NO" oil unless you disconnect the oil lines from the VRO pump or oil tank and you really don't want to do that at this time unless they are already disconnected.

I would advise you to run pre-mix like I mentioned above just to make sure the system is working and as long as your alarms are working, you should be good to go.

 
Set_The_Hook
#27 Print Post
Posted on 02/29/08 - 8:46 AM
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So by doing that the motor will be getting more oil than it needs, It will not hurt anythink just smoke more right?
I will do that this weekend

Thank You
This site has the bet advise out there.

 
danedg
#28 Print Post
Posted on 02/29/08 - 6:55 PM
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I wouldn't put any fuel/oil mixture in my 2 stroke that I hadn't mixed myself...
then you KNOW, that if the motor blows up...it's your fault!
IBM called it...another "point of failure"....
if it works...great!...if it doesn't...kaboom!

 
Joe Kriz
#29 Print Post
Posted on 02/29/08 - 7:04 PM
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Mike,

Theoretically it should smoke more but not enough to notice, at least not on my engine.
I could possibly foul plugs but again, mine didn't...
As long as you only run 3 or 6 gallons thru the engine just to make sure the level in the VRO Oil Tan has gone down.

 
fish
#30 Print Post
Posted on 03/01/08 - 12:30 PM
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I removed the oil injection from my fishing and one race motor. Call me old school, but one less part to fail and especially such a critical one. I always know I have plenty of oil, I even mix a bit rich, but I would rather buy plugs a little sooner than rebuild a power head. If it is under warranty, than it is a no brainer, you have to have it.

 
seahorse
#31 Print Post
Posted on 03/05/08 - 5:23 AM
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jlh49 wrote:

...Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem ...



On that same note, "what if the warning horn fails and I pick up an ice bag in the water and 'cook' the motor?" Not all engines have the SLOW system on them.

What would happen if the HOT light burned out on your car just before the engine overheated or the OIL light fails and a leak develops?

The warning horn should be checked as part of the maintenance of the motor.

For the factual information on the "VRO/OMS" pump, click on this link:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refe...e/VRO.html

 
Set_The_Hook
#32 Print Post
Posted on 03/10/08 - 1:20 PM
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OK,
The VRO is not working, I mixed oil with the gas and measured the oil tank, ran the boat yesterday up and down the inter-coastal and did a little fishing too. NO change in oil tank. Started looking at the VRO pump and found buried in the hoses that the previous owner cut and plugged the hose.

Do you think that I should replace the VRO or keep premixing the gas?

 
Joe Kriz
#33 Print Post
Posted on 03/10/08 - 1:33 PM
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Ste_The_Hook,

That would be entirely up to you.

I am not against people disconnecting their VRO for a reason. What I can't understand is if people tell someone just to disconnect it because it is no good. I still say Hogwash to that.

If you enjoy mixing fuel and enjoy not knowing "EXACTLY" how much oil you have in your mixture, (too little, too much) then keep on pre-mixing.

If it were me and I planned on keeping the boat/engine, then I would buy a brand new VRO pump that has all the new features and install it. Again, you will still need to run pre-mix at first to make sure the VRO is working before going back to straight fuel.
A new VRO pump is around $300. You would also be getting the fuel pump which is built-in part of it too.

Good Luck with your decision.

 
Set_The_Hook
#34 Print Post
Posted on 03/10/08 - 2:15 PM
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I am going for it, I like the OEM way of doing things. Thats for the help

 
seahorse
#35 Print Post
Posted on 03/10/08 - 3:06 PM
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Set_The_Hook wrote:
I am going for it, I like the OEM way of doing things. Thats for the help



OK, there are a series of tests that must be performed to make sure you "VRO" will work correctly and you should keep running pre-mix fuel until it is determined that the pump is fully functional over a period of time.

The late model service manuals explain how to test for correct oil flow at various speeds and how to test the NO OIL alarm to make sure it works. The oil tank should be flushed out, the hoses and clamps inspected and a new filter installed in the tank. The LOW OIL float switch on the oil tank pickup should be tested, too.

 
Joe Kriz
#36 Print Post
Posted on 03/10/08 - 3:16 PM
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For those of you that don't know seahorse, he is a reputable Evinrude mechanic.
In other words, he knows his stuff.

I believe the newest, most up to date part number is #5004558
This is no longer called a VRO... It's called an OMS for Oil Metering System.
Check with your dealer as you want the newest OMS or maybe seahorse will let us know here for sure as things can always change.

I have some instructions on how to test some of the warning horn sounds on the older VRO system here. Some of these tests are the same for the newer system.
http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...ticle_id=9



 
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