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You have the same set up on your outrage as I do / did on mine.
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Floor%20repair/DSC02309.jpg[/img]
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[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Floor%20repair/P1010014.jpg[/img]
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Here is how the later 22's where produced. This is how Joe's was
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Floor%20repair/22centercavity.jpg[/img]
(I would have linked to my repair article however, it seems after the server transfer the images were lost.)
Also, this one will throw you for a real loop. My fathers 22 guardian has NO / NONE / NADA for thru hulls to drain the lockers or rigging tunnels. All of the water in these area drains out the stern splash well when the boat goes on plane. When we first got the boat the front locker was full of water and pump was shot so we figures we would bail it by hand later. After the ride it was completely dry. Puzzled we tried it again later and sure enough it bails through the stern.
Edited by Jeff on 09/04/07 - 4:39 PM
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
Thanks Jeff. I've looked at your floor repair article a number of times, both to get a general idea of the layout under the floor in my boat and to gather info (and fortitude) for when I take on the repair. The port tunnel that leads to nowhere at the stern and seems to drain into the top of the fuel tank area never made any sense to me? Glad they redesigned it with a sump, but wish I had that next generation... It also looks like they redesigned the rear fish locker a bit, not as deep but as a small well in the middle?
Very interesting about your father's boat, never would have guessed that! I'd imagine it's a lower tunnel to drain that front locker to stern? Is the scupper at the transom the same as used on the regular hulls or a better unit? Mine was missing the internal float ball so I just removed it and sealed the holes before installing a new drain tube.
stingraze,
If you leave the plugs in so the water starts to fill the boat, say from days of non stop rain the water will drain into the splashwell and then out the stern of the boat long before the boat would flip.
Joe, I actually plug all 5 drains in my 18 not just the splashwell. With the stern seat and the setback bracket all 3 splashwell drains are under water and the sump fills to the level of the floor.
When I docked the boat, I used a solar battery charger to keep the battery topped off for the week. Worked great, although having the boat on a lift where I can pull the plugs is much better.
Bilge pumps: I just directly connected the bilge pump to the float switch, if any water gets in "It's ON", my bilge is just a little "Rule" 500 to keep out rain water, I keep a 5 gallon bucket on board because, I once heard a question on "Bilge Pumps" at a coast guard (Aux) meeting, the Coat Guard speaker said " The fastest most efficient bilge pump in the world, is a scared man with a bucket in a leaking boat", a 5 gallon spackle bucket will bail MUCH faster than any rule 500 pump will, then again, we don't sink ( a very import piece of information ).
mw
Thanks for all of the replies. This has been very helpful! Per a previous response, I pulled the plug in the sump area at the dock last night to see what would happen. My bilge pump kicked on almost immediately, so I either must move it further away from the center of the boat, or install that "off" switch that we discussed. Thanks again for all of the input.
