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Boat speed ??
rbritdu
#21 Print Post
Posted on 08/04/07 - 7:34 PM
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Oh yes spark in all cylinders .. Yes the prop looks like it was worked on at on time . Also this boat sat for a while years I guess . Thanks Bob

 
rbritdu
#22 Print Post
Posted on 08/07/07 - 2:38 PM
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Tom Clark do you have anything more to add . Iam not sure which direction to go ?? Bob

 
Tom W Clark
#23 Print Post
Posted on 08/07/07 - 10:03 PM
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Bob,

I would be concerned about that dry plug. It could mean fuel is not getting to that cylinder and if so, continuing to run the motor like that will score that cylinder and ruin the motor. Have the carburetors been rebuilt recently? One clogged jet can rally mess things up.

Yes, a rough bottom can have a surprisingly negative effect on boat speed, but I do not think it is the entire story here.

It may well be that your profound loss of speed is the net result of several different factors. I am almost sure that you do not have an optimum propeller but it is no good to spend money on a new prop if the motor is not running right. I think it is time to visit a marine outboard mechanic and have the motor checked out.


Edited by Tom W Clark on 08/07/07 - 10:05 PM
 
Derwd24
#24 Print Post
Posted on 08/08/07 - 10:17 PM
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Bob, Were you able to confirm that your engine was only turning 4k at WOT?

 
rbritdu
#25 Print Post
Posted on 08/09/07 - 12:48 PM
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Ok here is the latest , It apears that fuel is getting to the cylinder . I replaced the one plug and ran engine up to 2k and took off each wire one at a time.To make sure there was a spark and to see if i could hear the cylinder shut down and than back on each one . It was noticable on three and very noticable on two and not at all on one . So now iam puzzled . If I run like this will I ruin the engine ?? How could this be fixed ? Also yea it runs at 44oo rpms WOT. Iam takin my mechanic on a run with it to see if we could check that bad clyinder with the boat on a plane and pull that wire to see if we see a change ?? Anyother Ideas ???? The carbs where all just rebuilt this winter also . Thanks for the help so far guys ... This is helpful ... Great support !

 
Derwd24
#26 Print Post
Posted on 08/10/07 - 7:14 AM
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If you're getting spark and compression is good, seems it's got to be a fuel delivery issue. So if that's the case, running it without fuel to that cyl also means running it without lube.... Do your carbs have screws that allow you to drain the float bowl? If so, it's worth checking for fuel in the bowl as you may have a stuck float and no fuel in that carb as a result.... If that and the rest of the carb checks out, the reed box in the intake manifold is the next stop, for a stuck or broken reed.


Edited by Derwd24 on 08/10/07 - 7:21 AM
 
joninnj
#27 Print Post
Posted on 08/11/07 - 4:56 AM
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After reading through the thread I also agree with Derwd24. May be a fuel delivery since you have dry plug. You do have Dry Plug right? or you are not getting spark on one? Has the engine been running this way since the beginning of the season? If so maybe the jets on the carbs were set improperly or the wrong size....Shock

As far as drains they are at the bottom of the carbs. On my V6 Merc they were located at the bottom on the sides. Pretty sure on the right side facing the engine. My 175 was a 1985 model might have been different. Could be as simple as water sitting in one of the bowls... You do not need to unscrew them completely, they will drain while partially screwed and they are easy to loose. Place a few paper towels underneath to catch the dripping and any a drain plug that may drop.Good idea to drain them occasionally. I had major water issues when had the Merc early on.

If you not getting spark on one cyl, may be a few things, coils, stator, or even switch box (CDI). If this is electrical I would have it looked at by a tech who would have test equipment.

If there is a suspicion of a broken reed I would not run the engine. If broken pieces get into the crank/block that will cause major damage.


Edited by joninnj on 08/11/07 - 5:24 AM
Jon in NJ
Many other boats and outboards in my boating history
The Whaler is the one I like the best!!!
 
rbritdu
#28 Print Post
Posted on 08/13/07 - 6:16 PM
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I will have the reed box checked . My mechanic says just run the boat like it is and I dont fee cumfy about that at all . Any comments ? It s not the way the engine was made to operate . I do realize it is a 1986 but it seems in good shape . I dont think the engine will fix its self . If its not the reeds what else could it be ?? I will be testing the engine this week on the water to check the rpms again but iam sure that it will still be at 4400. Should I find another mechanic ?? Thanks Bob

 
Tom W Clark
#29 Print Post
Posted on 08/13/07 - 7:55 PM
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Your mechanic is offering BAD advice. It is entirely possible that something simple is holding you motor back but it could also be that that "something" is going to destroy you motor in short order if not resolved. You cannot run a lean cylinder for long.

My advice: Find a new mechanic. Do not use your boat until is is fixed.

 
Jeff
#30 Print Post
Posted on 08/13/07 - 8:59 PM
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Looking back you said one of your plugs was DRY while the others were coved in oil and carbon? If by DRY you me perfectly clean then your head gasket in cracked and water is being pumped into the cylinder. That is not good nor will the motor last long. I had this happen on my motor. It was performing very sluggishly on one outing so I headed for home and pulled the boat. Once out of the water I pulled the plugs and found one to be perfectly clean. This is a tell tail sign of a head gasket leak. So I pulled the heads off the motor and found that cylinder had begun to overheat. I cracked a ring and lightly scuffed the cylinder wall.

Had I ran the motor any longer I would have caused a catastrophic failure of that cylinder and the motor would have been toasted probably beyond repair. However, since I caught it right away the motor was able to be fixed. Since I had to pull the piston I saw it as an opportunity to put ALL new internals into the motor and because I caught it right away the cylinders only needed to be rehoned instead of overbored. Overboring needs to happen when you have a fixable catastrophic failure and this gives you a much, much shorter life on a rebuild.


Edited by Jeff on 08/13/07 - 9:04 PM
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
 
Derwd24
#31 Print Post
Posted on 08/13/07 - 10:09 PM
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Jeff, Just curious, did your cracked head gasket show up in a compression test as lower numbers for that cyl?

Bob, Don't let the year of the engine influence your overall thinking much, it's more the specifics for each engine. It sounds like your compression is good, so try not to do anything to damage that while you're trying to get to the root of the problem. I'd be cautious about running it much more, if at all, until you can determine what's going on.

Dave


Edited by Derwd24 on 08/13/07 - 10:31 PM
 
Jeff
#32 Print Post
Posted on 08/14/07 - 7:12 AM
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A crack in the head gasket will show a slight drop in PSI during a compression test but, if you do not have a long history of compression numbers with the motor you would not really notice it.




1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
 
Derwd24
#33 Print Post
Posted on 08/14/07 - 7:19 AM
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Thanks. I ask because I'm going to run a check when I pull my boat next. But given what you went through and the fact that our engines are the same year and HP, it sounds like changing the head gaskets anyway may not be a bad idea even as preventative maintenance. And it may well be worth Bob doing as it'll give him a look at his cylinder walls and also eliminate the leak as a possible issue... If the walls look good, compression is good (the same as the last check) with the new gasket, and the engine is still running the same, seems it's got to be in the front end as a fuel delivery issue?


Edited by Derwd24 on 08/14/07 - 7:27 AM
 
duf
#34 Print Post
Posted on 08/14/07 - 10:34 AM
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Joninnj, sorry missed your question on the posting from July 30 or 31. I still have the same stainless prop. Its a 14.5 X 19 that was re-pitched to a 21. I've been out several times now and pretty much lock in on 52 - 53 MPH and 5600 RPM. I plan on purchasing a new prop down the road with Tom's latest recommendations.

Duf

 
rbritdu
#35 Print Post
Posted on 08/23/07 - 2:38 PM
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Heres an update . I took a mechanic out on the boat yesterday . Ran the boat WOT and still only got 4400rpms. Tested for spark which was ok and dropped the suspect plug connection at WOT and dropped down a bit . So then we tryed to pump the bulb and bingo the RPMs jumped to 5100rpms .So we changed the fuel filter on the engine and will change the diaphram in the fuel pump tomarow . There seems to be alot of spray at the transom so we will move the engine to the first bottom set of holes on the bracket .It is now set at one set of holes up . Iam wondering if this is correct for a 1979V22 Outrage with a 1986 Mariner 200 v6. The engine has a dolfin on it ?? Any help or comments would be great!! Thanks Bob

 
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