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prop : alum vs. stainless
tmann45	#21  Posted on 02/23/14 - 7:39 AM
Member Posts: 196 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/18/07	kamie wrote: I carry a hub kit, ss cotter pin and a length of 2x4 with holes drilled near the ends. I've got an idea, but please explain the holes near the ends of the 2x4.
Silentpardner	#22  Posted on 02/23/14 - 8:53 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 593 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/12/11	Yes Kamie, please describe the field procedure you use. This is exactly what we are looking for here! Thanks in advance!
kamie	#23  Posted on 02/23/14 - 10:05 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	I did a lot of prop testing when i first got my outrage. In a lot of cases, i was in the middle of the river and any shallow spot to hop off and change a prop was 4 or 5 miles away. I have very long dock lines on the 18, i just thread them through the holes, tie both ends to the stern cleats or eye rings and now the board won't drift away even if i drop it. You can quickly position the board to hold the prop, while you lean over the stern to undo the prop nut. Leaves 2 hands free to catch the other little parts, like keeper rings and cotter pins. Where I boat oysters aren't really the problem, it's the submerged log that floats just below the surface that will do the most damage. Especially when we have lots of spring rains and the river is running high.
huckelberry145	#24  Posted on 02/23/14 - 6:08 PM
Member Posts: 401 Comments: 3 Joined: 03/10/12	I will add that buying a new stainless steel propeller in order to get the new style flowtorque IV hub is not cost productive, but selling the idea that I can change out a spun hub in my boat is a good argument for stainless v/s aluminum if someone were wanting to change over now.When an aluminum prop breaks a blade or blades, there is no quick fix for that unless you keep a spare prop on board. The money wasted in fuel on prop slip will pay for the stainless prop anyway. The best thing to do is tread lightly at low tide. Edited by huckelberry145 on 02/24/14 - 12:25 AM
lsucole	#25  Posted on 02/24/14 - 7:05 AM
Member Posts: 38 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/01/09	WOW --- I didn't know my little question would go so far! Now though I have a follow-up. My owners manual on my 60 Merc. says I need to go from a Flo-Torq II to a Flo-Torq III when going from alum. to ss. After reading these posts, should I go to a Flo-Torq IV or to the Rubex ? Edited by Tom W Clark on 02/24/14 - 7:24 AM
Tom W Clark	#26  Posted on 02/24/14 - 7:22 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	A Mercury 60 HP FourStroke BigFoot uses a Flo-Torq III hub kit. That is your best option. Once you own one, you can use any square bore propeller made.
Derwd24	#27  Posted on 02/27/14 - 8:13 AM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	It seems like the Flow-torq IV aren't available to fit Evinrude? I was unable to find a cross reference for that hub kit. Will try the Rubex if that's the case. Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
Tom W Clark	#28  Posted on 02/27/14 - 8:52 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	No, there are no Flo-Torq III or Flo-Torq IV hub kits to fit OMC/BRP motors, though they do now offer Flo-Torq III kits for Yamahas.