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2005 mercury outboard lower unit
Bgreen	#21  Posted on 01/07/14 - 4:21 AM
Member Posts: 30 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/29/13	Talked with Mercury Outboard and they suggested having someone jiggle the drive shaft by jiggling the top manual crank flywheel (don't know correct name for this). Sometimes shaft gets stuck and this might help. If not, recommended taking to a dealer. I will try later this week (shop not heated and its really cold outside/inside) and will let you know outcome.
Newport17mikey	#22  Posted on 01/07/14 - 9:43 AM
Member Posts: 32 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/07/13	Drop the skeg(remove) I think there is one more nut (bolt)under there, ( I think) maybe mike
Bgreen	#23  Posted on 01/12/14 - 4:05 PM
Member Posts: 30 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/29/13	Well I tried jiggling the cranking head of motor, but the lower unit would not drop. I removed the 4 fasteners (2) ea side, and the locknut and washer as indicated in mercury manual. I looked all over for a hidden bolt and did not find one. I will try to find a certified mechanic to see if they can get it off. My only thought there might be some corrosion around the studs and the housing.
awayland	#24  Posted on 01/13/14 - 8:21 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 160 Comments: 0 Joined: 04/30/09	Did you take off the trim tab that sits behind the prop? There may be a hidden bolt under it or in front of it just above the prop. 1970 custom 16 with 1999 Merc 2 stroke 90hp
Bgreen	#25  Posted on 01/19/14 - 1:49 PM
Member Posts: 30 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/29/13	Well I got lower unit off. The rear stud and 1 of the front studs had corrosion between stud and housing channel. After removing the corrosion, it looked like wet salt. To remove the lower unit I used (2) 3/4"x6"x 2 1/2 wood with (2) 6"x2"x 1/4" steel plates inserted between the two wing flanges where the units would separate. I drove a wedge in between the steel plates putting pressure on the two wing flanges. This formed a gap in which I was able to insert large screw drivers. I had to keep working it to get it down and with some help they came apart. I did break a thin piece above the anode, which I did not realize was thin. I am having it welded tomorrow (tig) for around $50. The pump was fine, but I replaced. There was some corrosion buildup in between water pump base at bolt heads which I cleaned up and then replaced all gaskets that were in kit. I will eventually replace water pump base flange as it showed signs of pitting. Btw, the lower and upper unit did not have any overlap, but we're flush seated together. I am glad I got to see condition of unit . overall it was in great shape for being a used motor/boat. Hoping this will last a long time. I probably should have taken it the first time to let a professional mechanic do the work, but I had to try.
huckelberry145	#26  Posted on 01/19/14 - 2:25 PM
Member Posts: 401 Comments: 3 Joined: 03/10/12	I wanting to assume the boat mechanic would have had to do the same thing you did to get the lower unit off. Don't feel bad about a few scars on your rig, it's nothing a little JB weld and OEM color matched paint won't fix.
gchuba	#27  Posted on 01/19/14 - 2:42 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	We have all done a project like this a first time. Congrats for your accomplishment. Clean the heck out of everything before re-assembly. Just think, a small busted tab and no busted bones. gchuba
gchuba	#28  Posted on 01/19/14 - 2:42 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	We have all done a project like this a first time. Congrats for your accomplishment. Clean the heck out of everything before re-assembly. Just think, a small busted tab and no busted bones. gchuba