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T-H Marine Atlas Micro Jacker for Sport 15?
wlagarde	#21  Posted on 11/29/13 - 1:39 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	So Joe - Looking at the layout in detail, I'll need to raise the engine up 2 holes to be able to drill/use the green holes. Do you think that will be too much? 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
ritzyrags	#22  Posted on 11/29/13 - 1:54 PM
Member Project Albums Posts: 1003 Comments: 36 Joined: 06/18/08	Great advise from Joe to be sure. I have installed a first rate manual adjustment CMC Power Lift unit jackplate on my Classic Outrage 19 1975. I am running a 25" leg and had to refer to the raising options given from the "PL" for solutions. The addition of this plate will enable me to fine tune the height of my outboard and suit my needs. For someone who want to invest a bit of time and money in order to fine tune speed and fuel consumption, I would not hesitate to recommend this unit. http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1644 Dont lie Dont Cheat And dont give up..
Joe Kriz	#23  Posted on 11/29/13 - 2:06 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	wlagarde, Almost all motors today, or motors with the newer props, can go 2 or 3 holes up, which would be all the way up for some motors. The way I see yours now, you need to drill 2 holes no matter what. Those 2 holes you have in the same upper bracket mount are going to need to be filled and never used again. Even if you use a jack plate, you do not want to use those 2 holes, so they need to be filled anyway. Your very top 2 holes are probably OK if they are 1 7/8" to 2" down from the top of the transom. I would raise the motor 2 holes by drilling the Green holes in the diagram if that works for your transom. Then, you could always raise it another hole if you needed without drilling anymore holes even if you got a different motor as it would have a modified Standard BIA mounting pattern.
wlagarde	#24  Posted on 11/29/13 - 2:21 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	OK - I'll start by testing performance with the motor raised 2 holes and see what happens. If all goes well I'll drill the green holes and fill the extra/unused holes. ritzyrags and others - Thanks for the tips about jack plates. I may go for one of the manual ones... 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
wlagarde	#25  Posted on 11/29/13 - 2:45 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Joe - One final question: What is the best way/materials to use to fill the unused holes? 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
Joe Kriz	#26  Posted on 11/29/13 - 3:08 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Articles Section ----> Repair Articles ----> Filling Transom Holes http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=62 Edited by Joe Kriz on 11/29/13 - 3:15 PM
wlagarde	#27  Posted on 11/30/13 - 7:51 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Joe - The very top holes in my transom are 2" from the transom edge so they should be fine. I plugged the old holes (extra holes in the upper bracket mount and the lower black blind holes) and traced out the new lower green holes on my transom and it should work fine. I'll let you know how it goes. 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
Joe Kriz	#28  Posted on 11/30/13 - 8:14 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	wlagarde, Thanks for the info. I didin't realize you still had the black blind holes as I couldn't really tell from the photos. Take some photo of your project and keep us informed. Always good to show other members how easy this may or may not be.
wlagarde	#29  Posted on 12/01/13 - 10:17 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Well after plugging the holes and sanding the transom down I exposed many old holes that have been plugged with epoxy (see pictures added to personal page). The quality of the previous repairs is good except that the holes are filled with epoxy resin flush with the surface of the gel coat. I still need to top off the holes I plugged with color-matched gel coat that I plan to order from Mini-Craft. The question is: Do I drill out (partially) the surface of the previously repaired holes so I can get some color-matched gel coat in place? I also plan to order an aerosol can of color-matched gel coat (also from Mini-Craft) and mask off and spray the exterior central transom section. I could also spray the interior of the transom well but that would be tricky if I wished to maintain the stencil (which I do). Any thoughts from the group? Edited by wlagarde on 12/01/13 - 10:23 AM 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
Joe Kriz	#30  Posted on 12/01/13 - 1:42 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Thanks for the photos. I see you haven't drilled the green holes yet but the motor mounted 2 holes up look good. After you drill the lower holes, you won't need to use those engine clamps on the transom.
wlagarde	#31  Posted on 12/01/13 - 4:33 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	OK I drilled the green holes and updated the photos. 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
Joe Kriz	#32  Posted on 12/01/13 - 4:38 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Excellent. From the photos, I don't think you could have drilled the "Yellow" holes which are another 3/4 of an inch down. Thanks for sharing and please keep those photos in your personal page or we can create a project album for you. You might consider removing those upper clamp bolts as you no longer need them. You can also raise your motor one more hole, if in the future, it would help for better performance, etc. Edited by Joe Kriz on 12/01/13 - 4:43 PM
wlagarde	#33  Posted on 12/01/13 - 6:29 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Joe - The disks are riveted to the bolts. Should I just drill them out in order to remove the clamp bolts? Also, once I have the gel coat done and and have finished the project let's create a project album. Edited by wlagarde on 12/01/13 - 6:32 PM 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
wlagarde	#34  Posted on 12/05/13 - 7:23 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	I decided to replace the transom drain tubes while repairing the transom. The seals for the old tubes were dry rotted and I was concerned about the possibility of water infiltration and I also wanted the tubes out while I spray the top coat of gelcoat. Well with great difficulty I was able to remove the two higher and short 3" transom well tubes. I noticed these were brass so I suspect they had been replaced previously, The lower long 15" tube that drains the bilge appears to be made of copper so I suspect it is original. I am a little hesitant to try and remove the long tube since the short ones were so difficult; however, the seal is in such bad shape I feel compiled to replace it. Does anyone have any advice about the best way to remove the long transom tube on a sport 15. I have read the page about replacing tubes but there is no discussion about removing old tubes. Any help is appreciated. Edited by wlagarde on 12/05/13 - 7:24 PM 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
Joe Kriz	#35  Posted on 12/05/13 - 10:13 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	All Drain tubes were Brass. http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=54 Get it out however you can from one direction or the other.
jamesgt727	#36  Posted on 12/06/13 - 5:48 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 360 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/17/11	I changed mine to stainless through hulls, those brass tubes are the root of all evil for water infiltration into the hulls on these boats. After you remove the drain tubes, finish the inside of the holes with something to waterproof it. The holes on my black 15 are finished, and do not need the tubes. I'll see if I can get Eric to describe how the best way to do that was. I can try to muster up some pics, but did not want to take this thread off track. I think I mentioned before, the 4" hydraulic jacker from TH is perfect for these boats.
wlagarde	#37  Posted on 12/06/13 - 6:30 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Joe and James - Thank for the tips. It turned out the long tube was the easiest to remove. I cut the inside flange off with an oscillating saw and it tapped right out really easily - a big relief! I'm glad I removed it - the inside of the hole is a little moist but no rot thank goodness. 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
wlagarde	#38  Posted on 12/06/13 - 9:17 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	James - Did you find it difficult to flare the stainless tubes? Where did you get the tubes? Also, I would love the details on waterproofing the holes. Did you use polyester resin? epoxy resin? 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
BowserImage	#39  Posted on 12/07/13 - 9:40 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 53 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/29/12	It's simple enough. Oversize the holes and then patch them with a polyester based filler like adtech P-77 grind and glass both interior and exterior, gelcoat, sand, buff and redrill. now you have a water proof hole. As for the stainless they aare not knurled tubes they are stainless thruhull fittings that James had coupler made for.
wlagarde	#40  Posted on 12/07/13 - 8:02 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	I sprayed the gelcoat - added pictures to personal page. Will wet sand, compound, polish, and wax tomorrow. 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke