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1972 21 foot Outrage
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| MW |
Posted on 06/25/07 - 2:44 PM
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water pump, water pump, water pump, and not just the impeller, I want a full water pump (case and all, including "Wear plate" replacement), it's the weakest link on any outboard, it should be replaced no less than once every two years. Good luck, we're all counting on you, "Soldered marine connections only", no crimping, we're watching you all the time ! my e-mail is always open if you need help.
MW
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| Mike |
Posted on 06/25/07 - 5:45 PM
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Make sure to use tinned marine grade wire.
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| Loch |
Posted on 06/26/07 - 4:27 AM
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Dan, Mike, Dan. Thanks for the comments. I will look for the recommisioning article as well. I have had quite a few boats and it doesn't take long to learn the lessons of water pumps. I am ancious to post pictures but I have to wait.
If I buy an aftermarket engine wiring harness, will it come with sufficient wires for guages, lights, bildge pump, etc. or do these require additional harnesses? I have learned that many problems stem from bad wiring and I want to do this right.
What type of guages should I buy to keep the dash original?
The hull on this boat has quite a few "spider cracks" but overall is in good shape and will a little buffing will look good. I am depating "going hole hog" or just fixing electrical and mechanical now and attach the hull later.
I spent Sunday afernoon cleaning the boat up and checking things over. The hull design and layout of this boat is great!  The seat base is an ice chest and the seat back, which is connected by a teak board, moves back for driving or forward for fishing, etc. Based on comments I've read on this forum, I'm going to sand and re-oil the teak. This in itself will be a big project as it has a great deal of teakbbut again, I want to do it right the first time. (my mother always told me, if something is worth doing, it is worth doing right)
Anyway, this is a great site and all of you are great.
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| Loch |
Posted on 07/17/07 - 5:00 AM
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Good morning, all. More good news on my 72 21' Outrage. I checked with the mechanic yesterday (a really good one with over 30 years experience with Mercury engines) and he indicated that the 1978 175 hp Merc engine was in good shape  but needed a lot of work to bring it back in service (ie, water pump, fuel pump, engine wire?, rebuild carbs, and tune up). He estimates the cost will be somewhere around $1K. This means that before the restoration of the boat, I will have about $3K in the boat. With anohter $2K in paint, wiring, fuel tank, and electronics, I will have a new very nice classic BW for about $5K!!
I will post pictures and and start a project site if my daughter ever decides to return from her grandmother's house. Hopefully next week which will work out good since I will get the boat back at the end of the week.
Since I need a new steering cable (already removed) anyway, I plan on removing the engine and cut the wiring before I get started on the hull. Also plan on building the 4x6 and 4x4 boat dolly that was discussed here.
Oh, unfortunately, I will not be able to show before pictures of of some of the teak  as I couldn't wait and thought sanding and refinishing most of the teak would keep be busy while waiting on the engine work. I will be able to show the center console teak which is tipical of most of the before teak. The pieces that I have finished so far (battery, bait well, and bilge cover) look great after sanding and appling several coats of Amazon teak oil.  I agree with most here that if your teak is in bad shape ... sanding is the best way to go.
Here is my question (there always has to be a question for this informed group) ... the Amazon teak oil insturctions say to apply "pre-oil" treatment to the wood and mix 25% to your oil for the first couple of coats of oil. They indicate that this substance removes water from the wood which keeps the finished wood from turning dark. I have looked everywhere and I can not find this "pre-treatment" they suggest. Does anyone know if they still sell it or do they call it something else now?
As always, thanks, Ron.
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| stingraze |
Posted on 07/17/07 - 7:16 PM
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Hello Loch - I just recently purchased an Outrage 18 and was anxious to start on the teak ASAP. I spent alot of time researching what others have done (Cetol, Start Bright, etc.), but made my final decision to go with the Amazon product line. I went to four different places this past weekend looking for the Step 2? to mix with the Amazon Golden. I had zero luck finding it! I stressed to the sales rep at my final stop that I did not want all of my sanding to be a waste, and that I wanted to do it according to instruction. He said that I am the only person that has apparently read the instructions or cares? From what I gather, the 25% mix is to thin out the first two coats to help penetrate the wood. He also stated, as the others did, that they cannot get the product from the manufacturer.
Anyway, I sanded, cleaned and applied the coats according to instruction, minus the dilution step, and it appears to have turned out nicely. I started putting the hardware back onto the boat this evening in hopes of getting it wet this weekend. Good luck to you, and congrats on your new ride!
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| Loch |
Posted on 07/18/07 - 10:50 AM
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stinzgraze, I came to the conclusion that Amazon doesn't make it anymore. I agree that it is used to thin the oil out so the wood will absorb better. I suspect that mineral sprits, laquer thinner or else would work but I'm not taking a chance. My first piece turned out just fine with simply applying serveal coats of oil.
Beautiful wood when finished properly. Good luck.
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| Jeff |
Posted on 07/18/07 - 12:15 PM
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Posts: 1987
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Joined: 04/02/05
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Loch see my comments in this teak finishing article.
Here are images of the teak finished
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Memorial%20Weekend%2006/MemorialWeekend2006061.jpg[/IMG]
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more images are the bottom of the page
Edited by Jeff on 07/18/07 - 12:21 PM
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive |
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| stingraze |
Posted on 07/18/07 - 1:16 PM
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Hello Jeff - not to hijack Loch's thread, but do you have a good recommendation for restoring/polishing the metal as well? Your teak looks great! Mine turned out a little darker than that, although I think it still looks good. I will post some pics here soon!
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| Jeff |
Posted on 07/18/07 - 1:22 PM
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Member
Posts: 1987
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Joined: 04/02/05
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String,
I polish all of my bright work with a heavy clay / tripoli compound and a cotton wheel mounted on a bench grinder.
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive |
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| Loch |
Posted on 07/19/07 - 4:58 AM
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Thanks, Jeff.
My pieces are turning out but also a little darker than yours. I don't know why they are turning out darker (wood, water, or sanding method) and that is why I was looking for the pre-treatment.
Here are the pieces that I am doing now. This is a photo of the only other boat I found on the internet with the same hull design.
http://www.usedboats.com/enlarged_pho...%20storage
Oh, I got an e-mail back from BW  on my hull number and here it is:
"According to Whaler's records, serial number 00888 was built in our old Norwell, MA factory as a Bare Hull 21' Outrage (no interior was shipped with the boat) and was picked up at the factory by Down East Sportsman out of W. Rockport, Maine on 11/2/72.
There were quite a few different configurations available back in those days. This one is fairly rare where it did not have any console or seating installed at the factory."
My console in the large teak covered one but I have not found another boat with the seat that I have. The seat doubles as an ice chest with a cushion lid and the back rest has a pivotal teak arm that allows the back rest to go to the rear or front.
Hopefully I will post pictures soon.
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| Bob Kemmler JR |
Posted on 07/19/07 - 12:20 PM
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Joined: 10/10/05
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Loch if you ever need some extra hands for some delicate tasks on that baby, just give me a shout. I work cheap, a couple packs of sugar free Monster energy drinks and any spare parts ya got lol Can't wait for the pics, ya lucky sob lol
On the hunt for a classic 19 or 21 Whaler |
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| Jeff |
Posted on 07/19/07 - 12:54 PM
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Member
Posts: 1987
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Joined: 04/02/05
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Exposure to higher and more intense UV light will darken it. Also if you are using a power sander and you are overworking / overheating the wood it will turn it dark as well. Found that one out the hard way. I have even hand an area on a piece of teak furniture get a dark greenish hue from overheating.
Edited by Jeff on 07/19/07 - 12:58 PM
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive |
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| Loch |
Posted on 07/23/07 - 7:47 AM
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Bob, Jeff. I got a call from the mechanic on Thursday indicating the motor was finished. He said he was amazed at how well the engine ran. Of course this was after he did all his work ($600 for all).
I took Friday off and my father and I drove to Daytona to visit Surplus Unlimited at Daytona Beach and checked prices on many things I will need. Great place and prices by the way. Drove back through Deland and picked the boat up. This is a good time to say that I have found that many of the BW related vendors are located in Daytona or Deland. If any members want me to check on things for them, I will be more than happy to do so.
I borrowed a small digital camera on Friday and took pictures but I don't know how well they will turn out. After taking pictures, I strarted stripping the boat on Saturday. I was able to get all the wiring off, center console removed, railing removed, and most of the hardware. I will finish when I get home today. Other than old bottom paint, the hull is in great shape.
I called the local soda blasting company this morning and I am awaiting them to return my call on pricing. If price is reasonable, I will have them blast it next week after I have a chance to remove the engine.
Here is where I have a question. The non-slip deck has a good deal of spider cracks which will be hard to sand. If I have them soda blasted and fill in with primer paint, will this be sufficient to end up with a good job? All the other stress cracks above the rub rail, I will use a dremel tool, fill and sand.
Another question. It appears the origina color was white except the deck which was the desert tan. Is the desert tan a non-slip paint?
Bob, thanks for the offer but I think this is going to be a rush job as we are trying to get it finished in time for snook season which starts September 1st.
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| Loch |
Posted on 07/31/07 - 9:09 AM
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At long last, (I borrowed a camera because I wanted to get started working on the boat) here are "before" pictures of my $2K 1972 Outrage. I bet Bob thought I was on drugs or something ... but check out my personal page for pictures. (posting pictures was another challenge)
As of today, the motor has been removed, and all the hardware stripped off. This was a two person 3 day job!! Next weekend we will start stripping the bottom paint and doing what little patching needs to be done on the hull. I think the spider web and stress cracks will take the most time. I will post pictures of these stages later.
I have given the fuel tank drawings to the fab shop and they should have the tank ready soon. As mentioned in the photos, I originally thought I was looking at a complete re-wire but most of the wire is new and only needs new gauges and securing.
This is (and has been) a lot of work but I think I will have a beautiful and functional boat when I get finished.
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