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Go with the advice here, it's tailored to your specific engine and hull combination.
When we bought our Etec from a well established dealer, they had the engine mounted all the way down and completely wrong prop on it. After lifting the engine all the way and getting the right prop recommendation from Tom, the boat was transformed and performed so much better.
well, after much discussion last night with the dealer - here is my new 'situation'. the dealer was out of stock on the 90 in the 'white' version. offered to move me to a 115 for the same price. I decided the extra 50 pounds of motor wouldn't kill me.
I am having them mount the oil tank in the console with the battery - that should offset any balance issues at the back of the boat - couple of questions needed answered ASAP since I told them for messing me up I expect the boat TODAY.
1. any loss of economy - should that be offset by lower cruising RPMS ?
2. still looking at mounting 3rd hole up = move to 2nd hole ??
3. prop - still giving me a Viper - what pitch or other suggested E-rude prop ? was getting a 17".
did not check the prop size when I picked up the boat, but was there when the mechanic was checking the run-time diagnostics after the water test and the top RPM with the current prop was around 5700+
they said that they wanted to keep it under 6K. it's a Viper prop. motor mounted 3 holes up.
did not get to run it Sunday so I could see the actual fuel burn at various RPMs to get my best economy... that will happen this weekend at worst although I may do it during the evenings ...
mouchacs wrote:
Did you raise the engine up yourself or did you take it back to the dealer? How did you know it needed to be moved up?
Calin
I've raised mine a few times alone (same 90hp E-Tec). Lower the trailer jack, put a piece of wood under the skeg, lower the engine with the power trim until the skeg is set againt the wood. Remove the top 2 bolts and only loosen the 2 lower ones (in the slots). Raise the jack (the transom will go down) until the holes in the transom matches the next lower set of holes on the outboard bracket and tighten everything. That's it!
Not sure about the "physics" of why it's beneficial but it's almost always the case, unless you go too high and it's sucking air badly. 1) For sure there's less lower unit drag in the water and 2) Maybe because the prop, by trying to "grip" in the water, even by being higher, will force the transom down and, BTW, the bow up, thus having less hull in contact with the water...It act almost like you're always trimmed up.
When raising mine, performances improve and I notice I have a lot less trim "play", being only able to bump it up a few degrees before it blow up.
Edited by saumon on 06/06/13 - 7:34 PM
1991 Outrage 17' I - 2005 E-Tec 90hp
Saumon described the same procedure I used to lift the engine, works very well. And don't forget to reseal the bolt holes when you have the new engine height set.
Edited by Derwd24 on 06/06/13 - 10:10 PM
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
