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James, the photo's you are looking at are of my 22 Whaler, not my 25 with Whaler Drive. I keep saying i will update my Personnal page :)
CES thanks for the congrats!
John, bite me i went on a diet, so i'm going to tell Trish, you blamed her weight!
All good info, and i appreciate everyones insight. As i stated earlier, i understood it would do it (at some point), but wanted to understand why, not just that it would. Opinions are pretty centered, its the bow driving down, which in a sense, make the boat stand on its nose, though its not noticeable. One thing i may do, other then the stopper as someone suggested as i don't know what driving down on a pin system, unless provisions are there to do so. Is be careful at high speeds, and not do a repeat performance. Also, purchase later, some trim gauges, as i don't have a set now with my new Smart Craft gauges, but it does accept them. I've heard several times you don't need them, you feel by the seat of your pants, where the correct trim is. And i agree to a point, still, nothing like a visual aid you have to not screw up. And as John has already eluded to, i have a fat azz, so maybe i just can't feel it as well.
1st Whaler hulls are not race hulls and are design for a max speed, The round bottom in the back of the whaler causes the boat to roll, This area on a race hull is flat,
James, actually i'm not new to it. I was a blow boat sailer for many years in Pensacola, raced catamarans from 16 footers, to a 19 Prindle, to a 27 ft stelletto. Tom called it similar to "broaching a sailboat" which is incorrect. Broaching is when you lose helm, and the sailboat "broaches" into the wind, putting you in irons. It is called "pitch poling" and its when the boat buries the bow, raises the stern, and you can literally toss the stern over the bow, which i have done on several occasions, on both my hobie, and my prindle. Came damn close with my 27 one time. As i have stated in several of these posts, i recognize that dropping the trim will cause it at high speed, but never understood the physics, which is why i launched this post. I also didn't know the limits when i was out testing my new 150's and erred into the bad zone trying to see where the boat was comfortable. Funny thing is on a sailboat you know your in trouble, just watching the bow, as it lowers into the sea. On my Whaler, there was absolutely no clue i was getting there, other then my rpm's dropping. As far as seeing any discernable drop in the bow, there was nothing, so its very discrete.
Plan on continuing with the break in, great advise from Finnegin and Tom, and think a 18 pitch prop will work, but not totally convinced a 19 pitch stainless new prop (the one's i have on there now are semi beat up) are totally out of the question. I still haven't got the boat to the "sweet spot" without wind interference, and being distracted but doing numerous things, as you would with a new system.
So, will truck on and keep reporting on progress, including getting up on plane with one motor. By the way, the run last week was with two people, me, a very dainty 230 lbs, and my first mate, 126 (or so she says) lbs, 1/2 tank, or about 70 gal's fuel.
Tom W Clark wrote:
Duf -- What you experienced is very similar to a sailboat broaching.
errr, broaching is when your foils (rudder and keel in large boats) "lose grip" on the water, often because you have heeled over too far. and/or you are experiencing a tremendous amount of weather helm (i.e. reaching with a large spinnaker up.)
Op, never mind, I think I got your analogy there now Tom. I do see how there could be very similar forces at play. well, now anyone wondering what broaching was knows.
Sailboats (and powerboats) can also broach in ocean conditions when they descend the front of a swell pushing the bow into the wave ahead. The buoyancy of the bow will make it want to rise and break to one side or the other. And yes, there will be some rolling going on.
