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Help Repower 90 HP E-TEC - 1964 Sakonnet
John Fyke	#21  Posted on 06/02/11 - 9:50 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1307 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/06/06	Tom, can he use a bracket? John Fyke Re-Fit or Reef It 1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
cmeichler33	#22  Posted on 06/02/11 - 10:17 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 45 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/14/10	What about a jackplate?
whalerman	#23  Posted on 06/02/11 - 4:55 PM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	It's a shame that someone cut the transom like that. As Tom pointed out the E-TEC can still be mounted CORRECTLY with that notched transom, using the top of the slots in the lower part of the bracket. No need for an extra piece such as a set-back bracket or jackplate. Get it mounted and enjoy, make sure you're proped right to see the correct rpm at wot. THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
Tom W Clark	#24  Posted on 06/02/11 - 9:28 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	Looking at the photos more carefully, it seems appears the notch is more like 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" deep. This means it will not be possible to mount the motor as I have described. That is a real shame. Yes, a bracket or jackplate could be used but you face the same problems as they use the same BIA standard bolt spacing too. Sure you can drill new holes in a jackplate to adapt it, but if you are going to spend several hundred dollars and go to a fair amount of effort to adapt a jackplate to this transom, why not just fill the notch and be done with it instead?
thetis	#25  Posted on 06/03/11 - 6:14 AM
Member Posts: 58 Comments: 1 Joined: 08/10/07	Tom, Life is never simple, that must be why I enjoy it so much. At this point I think my best bet is to bring the transom back to the original height, as you suggest. This repair is beyond my comfort/experience level so I will have a shop do the repair. I have the download on "locating fastening wood 16 1/2 Whalers. How should the repair be done? Suggestions and pitfalls. Thanks for your help. Patrick
Tom W Clark	#26  Posted on 06/03/11 - 8:08 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	Patrick -- I am glad you intend to repair the boat properly. To fill the notch you first need to understand how the transom is constructed. The transom of the 16'-7" Whaler is very simple. It is two layers of 3/4" Fir plywood laminated together and fiberglassed over when the hull was molded. The net thickness is about 2" You should get an accurate measurement of how deep the notch is. It appears that if you drill the upper holes where they need to be i.e. 1-3/4" to 1-7/8" o.c. below the top of the restored transom, the bolt holes would be drilled through original transom, not through the filled in notch. This is good news if it is true. The notch repair will then be much *less* structural than it would be if the upper bolts were to pass through the notch repair itself. The fiberglass covering the cut that was ,made long ago needs to be removed and a wooden plug shaped to fill the notch. The notch should be cut and shaped to be tapered so that it will tend to jamb against the existing transom as force is applied aft. That is not a very good description but if you imagine the sides of the filler being sloped you can get the idea. The only trouble with that is that it means you have to enlarge the cutout of the notch right where you are planing to drill those two new bolt holes and *if* it happens that they will go through the existing transom, I would not remove any more material there. I would use two pieces of 3/4" plywood to for the filler piece and glue them together and to the transom with epoxy. Fiberglass would then have to cover that repair, feathered out into the surrounding area and then gel coated after the repair is fair.
thetis	#27  Posted on 06/22/11 - 1:53 PM
Member Posts: 58 Comments: 1 Joined: 08/10/07	Progress, I have my motor mounted on the boat. Good installation, Goes in the water next week. Did not have to do transom work. I think that there was a repair done in the past. The info that I need is the dimension of the transom from top to the bottom of the hull Around 20 inches I would suspect, but I would like to know the exact. Engine is mounted with the AV plate about 1 1/2 " above the keel. Thanks, Patrick Will advise results of sea trial
Tom W Clark	#28  Posted on 06/22/11 - 3:59 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	Patrick -- So how is the motor bolted to the transom? If the AV plate is about 1-1/2" above the keel, that sounds good.
thetis	#29  Posted on 06/22/11 - 11:45 PM
Member Posts: 58 Comments: 1 Joined: 08/10/07	Tom, The motor is installed with 4 bolts, the bottom are as far down as possible in the splash well. Washers are bent over like the Whaler service bulletin. When the dealer was doing the install it looked as though the PO had notched the transom, however I examined the transom closely and I think that the "notch" might of been the original transom line and a repair or modification made to raise the rest of the transom a couple of inches. That is why I am requesting the orginal dimension from thr top of the transom to the keel or bottom of the "V". \ Thanks Patrick
Tom W Clark	#30  Posted on 06/23/11 - 12:16 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	I see. The 16'-7" Whaler transom is a 20" transom. That is approximate and it is measured vertically, not along the slope of the transom. Looking at your photos, it sure looks like it was notched. The factory joint between the inside and outside hulls skins was known as the "green line" and it was a point of pride at the factory to make that joint line visible and even, instead of covering it up with gel coat or trim moulding. It was a way to prove and demonstrate the soundness of the joint. If the "green line" is not here, it has been worked on. Do you have any photos that show the whole transom area in one frame? It will be obvious to us if the transom was raised or if it was notched.
thetis	#31  Posted on 06/23/11 - 1:03 PM
Member Posts: 58 Comments: 1 Joined: 08/10/07	Tom, I measured the transom fron the "notch" to the the bottom , the distance is about 20" as near as I can tell, as the motor is hung. The Original owner's son is comming up for the weekend and I will as him if he is aware of a repair. If it was repaired or modified it was a good one. The transom is solid, and the original bolt holes showed no signs of any rot. When I get the boat out of the garage I will take some photos. Thanks. Patrick
Tom W Clark	#32  Posted on 06/23/11 - 1:18 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	OK, going back to page one and looking at those four photos from your dealer, they do not show enough of the transom to be able to tell what is what If it was built up instead of notched, that is good news for you.
whalerman	#33  Posted on 06/24/11 - 11:04 AM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	I was wondering how this problem was fairing ~ nice to hear it has a very good outcome! Enjoy, take two hats with you as you'll loose one! If any of the older 16' 7" Whaler owners can measure their cut out that was done at the factory, or even better yet, make a template and mail it to Thetis that would tell just what was done. THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
thetis	#34  Posted on 07/15/11 - 7:33 AM
Member Posts: 58 Comments: 1 Joined: 08/10/07	Boat has been in the water for 3 weeks. Very impressed with the ETEC. Installation worked out, once it was installed "per owner's instructions" AV plate approx 1 1/2 " above bottom of keel. No porporsing or cavation. 2 adults, normal stores, 50 liters fuel, anchor etc. 13.25 x17 BRP aluminum prop. Salt water, light chop GPS 2500 rpm 20 mph 3000 24 3500 34 5000 41 WOT 5150 RPM. New to power trim, so still figuring out how to trim it out. Boat motor better combo than 83 60 HP johnson. Does not manauver quite as well at low spped, higher speed at in gear idle. Question Am going to purchase spare prop. What performance changes will I get with a 13 1/4 x 15? Thanks to all that contributed to make this a very successful installation, could not of done it without you. Patrick
Tom W Clark	#35  Posted on 07/17/11 - 11:58 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	Patrick, I am glad to hear the new motor is performing well. You could raise the motor another bolt hole if you like, You would gain a little speed and lighten the steering effort. If you want to upgrade your prop, go with the 13-1/4" x 15" Stiletto Advantage or Turbo 1. This will give RPM comparable to what you have now but with greater speed and improved grip and better acceleration. If you merely buy a 15" BRP prop you will gain some RPM but may loose some speed. The optimal RPM range for the E-TEC 90 is 5000-5200 RPM.