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Short Shaft Options (New) For A 1969 13
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| thegage |
Posted on 05/20/10 - 6:39 AM
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I've finally decided to bite the bullet and get a new engine for my 13-footer. I'm currently running an '88 Yamaha 15-hp 2-stroke, but between issues with the carbs/ethanol, and with my kids getting older and wanting to be pulled behind the boat, I need more engine. Where I live there aren't many used engines that turn up, and I'd rather start fresh than risk taking on someone else's problems. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like there are that many short shaft, remote control options out there at 25 or 30 hp. The E-tecs look attractive, but only offer a tiller option. Same with Suzuki. It looks like Mercury is the only one offering a remote. I don't really want to raise the transom in order to use a long shaft, but it's looking like that may give me the most flexibility. Am I missing something?
John K.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/20/10 - 5:16 PM |
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| CES |
Posted on 05/20/10 - 7:11 AM
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John,
Aside from raising your transom, your options are limited. Moose runs a Nissan 40hp with a 15' short shaft. Binkie is using a 25hp Mercury short shaft for his classic 13' too.
I have a 1966 13' with the 15' transom too and if I repower, it will be with a 20' motor which will require me to raise the transom. This kent Fab Trans adapter is what I'd use to raise the transom.
http://www.kentfab.com/Transdaptor%20...r%2013.htm
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 05/20/10 - 7:12 AM
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If you are wed to the 15" shaft length idea, then the Tohatsu MD40 is the obvious choice.
40 HP
Direct Fuel Injection
15" shaft length
Power trim & tilt
only 205 pounds
http://tohatsu.com/outboards/40tldi_s..._spec.html
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 05/20/10 - 7:55 AM
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I always like to see the old Whalers as original as possible. Personally I would stick to a short shaft.
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 05/20/10 - 10:02 AM
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Same here... second that.
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| whalerman |
Posted on 05/20/10 - 10:09 AM
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Agreed here too. Try a 35hp evinrude/johnson, probbly can pick one up for not much and do the usual plugs, wires, water pump, gearcase oil and be on your way ~ just a thought.
THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer |
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| rieka9 |
Posted on 05/20/10 - 5:14 PM
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I used a TH Marine Hi-Jacker Fixed Jacking Plate. It was rather inexpensive under $150. If you look at the last couple of pictures on my personal page you will see it. I used a piece of stainless on the inside of the boat as like a big washer. The engines are not that heavy so with some measurements you can figure out where you need it to be. It worked great for me with the 20" shaft, and i don't think it looks too obvious.
Edited by rieka9 on 05/20/10 - 5:16 PM |
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| LabCab |
Posted on 05/20/10 - 10:21 PM
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Yamaha makes a 15" Remote 25 hp 4 stroke. It does not have trim & tilt though.
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| thegage |
Posted on 05/21/10 - 11:27 AM
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Thanks for the replies.
I know about the Yamaha. The only concern there is that it's carbureted, and I don't know if I'd run into the same gelling issues as with my current engine.
The Transdaptor looks interesting, but at $400 I think I'd rather put the money into an engine.
John k.
Edited by thegage on 05/21/10 - 11:29 AM |
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| myakka |
Posted on 05/21/10 - 1:57 PM
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I'd take a second look at the trans-adaptor. I've had Eric Kent fabricate some things for a couplee of my boats and I know he used to do BW's custom work. He does excellent work. I believe he is still located across from the old Norwell factory. I just wish he came up with the Idea when we had our "68" 13
Mike
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| Binkie |
Posted on 05/21/10 - 5:32 PM
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The pros and cons of short shaft motors as far as I`m concerned. I like to use SS motors on SS boats, but it is getting harder to near impossible to find new ones. I`m running an `08 25hp Merc/Tohatsu 4 stroke on my 13 footer. I have put 20 hours on it since new almost 2 years ago. I love the motor, and for my purposes it works very well, its not really a Mercury, as Tohatsu makes Mercs in the 25-30 Hp range. Its built in Japan. It will run 28-29mph GPS with one peron, and a mile or two slower with two. I never take more than one person with me, so it has enough power for my uses. However if you bring 2 or more folks with you or pull a skier, this motor isn`t for you. My 25 weighs 157lbs, and I carry a 40lb trolling motor on the transom so total weight on the transoms 197lbs. close to the weight of the 40 Tohatsu. I think the 40 Tohatsu is a 2 stroke. When I come down off plane I always pull water over the cutout in the transom. Not really a big deal. I am running a 6" jackplate so the motor is actually mounted 2-3" higher than it would be mounted on the transom. I installed a small bilge pump in the splashwell, and keep both holes corked up, and I pull the bilge pump switch for a few seconds when I come off plane.
Here is the setup in my 13 footer.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...HALER3.jpg
If 2 stroke isn`t a problem the best motor for a 13 footer, far and away, is the 31.8 cu inch Evinrude or Johnson. Most were Evinrudes. It was built in 20-25-30-35hp configurations from 1978-2005. These motors with electric starting weigh 115lbs. That is the weight motor this boat was built to handle. The only difference between the 25 and the 35 is the carburetor. There is no difference at all between the 30 and 35hp.
It might be worthwhile looking for a cherry freshwater one from the northern Great Lakes region where the boating season is very short. There are thousands of these motors around, but of course, most are longshafts.
Another option is a new Yamaha 25 or 30 shortshaft with electric starting and a tiller. The dealer you buy it from can convert it to remote starting,
Rich |
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| CES |
Posted on 05/22/10 - 4:34 AM
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Well said Binkie. in my opinion, the pro's to raising the transom to a 20' transom far outweigh the cons. As Binkie mentioned, with a 20' transom you reduce the splash back when coming off a plane to quickly and you also open yourself up to a wider range of newer motor selections.
From experience in my 13" with the 15' transom, while the boat is beached it gets swamped all the time due to passing boats and choppy lake conditions. I've had to change to way I beach the boat now due to the swamping problem. I now point the boat out and away from the beach. I drop the anchor and then secure it. Then I take a rope and tie one end to the stern and run it to the beach. Then I take a stake and drive it in the ground and tie the line from the boat to it. This is a very effective way to keep from getting swamped while near the beach. If I had a 20' transom, I'd possibly not get swamped as much while actually beached.
Edited by CES on 05/22/10 - 8:38 AM
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| thegage |
Posted on 07/08/10 - 7:46 AM
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To update on my engine situation, I jumped in the deep end and ordered up a long-shaft E-TEC 30hp (manual tilt). To prepare for the dealer installation I also bought and installed the Kentfab Transdapter. It is pricey, but the ’dapter fit fine and to my eye looks quite attractive in place. Surprisingly, however, I don’t think it raises the transom enough to allow for motor installation at the correct height.
The first hint of an issue came when the dealer called and said that everything was installed and ran great, but there was a “bit of a rooster tail” at top speed. Indeed, when I finally got the boat out on the water not only was there a pretty impressive rooster tail but a good deal of water was continually washing back over the top of the ’dapter! Of course I had assumed the dealer had installed the engine at the proper height and so I hadn’t checked it prior to launching, but when I got the boat back on the trailer after my first run I saw that the anti-ventilation plate was well below the bottom hull line—or at least I think it is. I’ve always assumed that the A-V plate is the one directly above the propeller; however, the E-TEC Operator’s Guide identifies the plate above this as the “Antiventilation plate.” I suspect the OG is wrong?
I can’t raise the engine any further on the ’dapter because the clamp screws are right at the top edge. Part of the problem seems to be that the extreme angle of the 13 transom tucks the motor in too much, exacerbating the low height. I thought about using wedges to swing out the motor a bit more, but the thickness of the ’dapter combined with the transom angle means that the clamp screws are almost totally screwed out already; there isn’t much adjustment left to compensate for the wedge angle. I suspect I’m going to have to get an additional jack plate to get the motor to the correct height.
Oh, but the engine is really nice! Starts right up and just purrs along, and the hole shot is impressive.
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| moose |
Posted on 07/08/10 - 11:42 AM
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Do you have PT&T on the etech?
Mike
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| thegage |
Posted on 07/08/10 - 12:53 PM
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As noted, manual tilt.
John K.
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| number9 |
Posted on 07/09/10 - 1:47 AM
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The clamp brackets do present problems when trying to get the mounting height right.
Bill...On the Ogeechee
1984 Outrage 18...Yamaha T50...that's right, 50hp |
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| thegage |
Posted on 07/09/10 - 5:28 AM
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As an experiment (and using some oak and aluminum wedges) I did manage to raise the engine to the next hole up and tilt it slightly outward on the transom. Total lift was probably something around an inch-and-a-half. The AV plate is still below the hull line, but not nearly as bad. Good news is that the rooster tail went away, top speed increased--but so did porpoising. At least I know the direction I have to go and will now turn to a jack plate.
John K.
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| CES |
Posted on 07/09/10 - 5:39 AM
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John, I was in the process of writing to you the idea of possibly using a jack plate and you beat me to it. Good idea!!
Post some pics of your nice, whimsy new ETEC.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| los is 7 |
Posted on 07/09/10 - 5:48 AM
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I have a 40 Hp Tohatsu short shaft (15" , Remote controlled. I also use a 12 P prop to pull tubes.
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| e_digg |
Posted on 07/09/10 - 10:29 AM
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A Honda 30 hp is another good option. It is a short shaft with remote and tilt. It is, I think lighter than the rest.
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