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Better spot for ignition key
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| arthureld |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 11:51 AM
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I keep bending my key from bumping into it and am afraid it will break at a bad time.
Do I need to move my binicle? Or is there some way of making my key so it won't bend so easy.
Suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Here's my console -
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/ppimages/3564/console.jpg[/img]
Edited by arthureld on 06/16/08 - 11:52 AM |
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| kamie |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 4:13 PM
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I suggest you keep needle nose pliers on board and a spare key. Not sure how you could move the binnacle where you wouldn't hit the key. What do you hit it with, arm, hand? You might also try putting something there until you learn to avoid it, like tape a dixie cup over the key after you get the boat running. It shouldn't take long before you zig where you used to zag and hit it.
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| sraab928 |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 4:42 PM
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I am not familiar with that newer binnacle - is the key what I am seeing in the rear by what looks like a safety lanyard? Is the key part of the binnacle?
Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8 |
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| oliver1234 |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 5:08 PM
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i dont see the key either, if it is where the lanyard is then i dont really think there is much you can do about it, you could get a beefier key made so it wont break but moving the whole thing would be dificult
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| arthureld |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 5:57 PM
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The key goes in where the lanyard is going to. Facing the back of the boat and I hit it with my hip when walking by or if I stand close to it and hit a wave.
I though maybe this was a common problem. It seems like even the original position was out in the open where you might accidentally hit it with your knee.
My key is very soft and just bends over when you bang into it.
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| kamie |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 6:24 PM
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Call your dealer and see if they can get you a different key. I have the older style which is rounder and the key doesn't stick out so far.
I have to ask how tall are you, if your hitting the key with your hip? I am thinking that raising the console up a couple inches might help out?
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| Phil T |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 6:33 PM
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After looking at the photo several times through the day (don't ask), I can see why.
The binnacle appears much longer than the older style and other brands. Note the bottom front corner is on the edge of the shelf.
Arthur, I presume there is no room on the "shelf" to move it forward?
Would mounting the control on a spacer (riser) help or just let you hit it with another part of your anatomy?
Would it be practical to install a separate key switch and deactivate/cover up the binnacle control one?
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| Binkie |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 6:36 PM
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Simple, just mount a cup holder, maybe a teak one on the side of the console under the key. Now its impossible to get your hip into the key to bend it. Your hip will soon learn to stay away from the cup holder too. Better do something, if you break that key off in the off position, it could be a long tow home, I recently read an article in a magazine written by a locksmith, how to make a simple tool to remove a key that's broken off in a lock, that can`t be grabbed by pliers. Apparently this is more common than you think, and not so easy to fix even with pliers.
rich
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| kamie |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 7:06 PM
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I vote for Bob's suggestion and see if you can swap for the control and separate key switch or for the older style control that I have. Mine is much shorter, 1.5 inches according to bob which may be why I have never hit mine.
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| Phil T |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 7:19 PM
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I was taking a swag. Glad we have knowledgeable members like Bob.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| arthureld |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 10:42 PM
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It's not likely I will be able to exchange for the version with the seperate key because it has been too long.
I am will be able to look at it again this weekend when I get back home.
I will try to slide it back as much as I can without causing myself a bunch of work. And a stubbier key would help too. I could sure use a cup holder right there too.
Binkie, if you have any suggestions about where to find one, that would be great.
If all that doesn't work out, I'll have to go with the seperate key back to the original spot. (Who's Bob?)
Anyone buying the new binicle, I would suggest getting the version with the key that mounts in the original location.
Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. 
I'm 6'3" and too wide Kammie
Edited by arthureld on 06/16/08 - 10:45 PM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 10:59 PM
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Everyone should take a good close look at Rogers personal page.
Original he had a separate key switch and separate lanyard switch below the binnacle where there is now a black plate.
Roger, there are 2 styles of that new control.
One with the switch built in and one without. You could take the switch out and move it down to where your original switch was.
Take a look at this lineup of BRP Binnacles.
They show:
1. Binnacle with key
2. Binnacle
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/Engine_Controls/2007_Bombardier_Controls.jpg[/img]
So, you should be able just to take the key and lanyard out and move it down. You may need to buy new face plates for the key and lanyard from your dealer. Make sure you get them for the new version of controls that you have.
Here is a description of the majority of Binnacles made by OMC and BRP that I put together.
http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=56
Another tip. Since you had 2 old holes, your new one may just use one hole for both the key and the lanyard. You could fill the other hole with a speaker grill for your warning horn...
I know, I keep trying to push those horn grilles off on everyone. I think they are great.
http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=74
You can see the switch plate for assembly number 176408.
You only need the plate and not the whole assembly. Not sure what that part number is.
For the horn grille if you need it would be part #174970
Both the above plates are the same size so they should work for you to fill both of your old holes.
Last thought... You would also need to buy the plug to plug the hole in your current binnacle.
I know, there I go again spending your money.... 
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| arthureld |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 11:09 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions Joe. I need to get back to my boat and look everything over so I can make my decision about what to do.
If I can make your suggestion work, it seems like the cleanest one.
I think you meant #2 & #3 in that picture.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 06/16/08 - 11:13 PM
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Yep. Even though the Binnacle looks bigger than the Binnacle with key, they are the same except one doesn't have the switch. If you look close, you can even see the Binnacle has a spot for the key but just isn't installed...
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| MW |
Posted on 06/17/08 - 2:45 AM
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Outside of replacing the unit, could you fabricate 2 ear's out of wood or heavy plastic, spray w/black paint, then fix them to the mount around the key to act like a Guard or "Ear's" to protect the key ? Just a thought.
mw
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| sraab928 |
Posted on 06/17/08 - 3:08 AM
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arthureld wrote:
If all that doesn't work out, I'll have to go with the seperate key back to the original spot. (Who's Bob?)
Bob is Seabob4 - He has a lot of knowledge on parts and I believe can get parts at a discount for people.
Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8 |
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| arthureld |
Posted on 06/17/08 - 3:28 AM
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Opps thanks Scott,
I must have been sleepy.
I know Bob C. He sold me my hydraulic steering system at a great price.
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| moose |
Posted on 06/17/08 - 7:54 AM
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Just for info, if you should break off your key in the switch, if it is in the fully inserted position, you can still turn the switch with a knife blade or other tool that will catch the keyway. Just be careful not to push the broken part farther into the keyhole. All keys are made of brass so a stronger key is not an option. Some original commercial keys are harder than others because of alloys used in the manufacturing of the blanks. Most of the boat keys are not like that.
One simple solution that won't look too "redneck" is to use a "cup". Let's see if I can describe what I'm thinking. If that switch is mounted like most with a nut holding the switch to the mount, remove the nut and adjust the inner nut to allow the switch to protrude as far out as it can. Take something like a PVC end cap for a pipe. Drill a hole in the bottom of it so that it slips over the switch. Replace the nut so that it holds the "cup" and the switch in position. Now the key is inside the "cup" so you won't hit it. You getting the picture? It doesn't have to be PVC but I have used it before to protect a cylinder on the inside of a door and it has worked well for several years now.
Mike
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| arthureld |
Posted on 06/17/08 - 8:02 AM
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Thanks Mike,
I do get the picture and that is a good idea. Another thing I need to be concerned with is the lanyard. I don't use it much on my 20, but I sure did on our 13.
I need to get home so I can analys the situation more closely.
But thanks for all of the suggestions and more are welcome.
You guys rock.
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| ioptfm |
Posted on 06/17/08 - 1:23 PM
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Most newer motors will still start without the lanyard engaged. That was devised in the event you were out and lost it, you could still get back home. They will cut off if disengaged while running, but should be able to start right back up even if you don't reconnect it.
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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