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Replacing my impeller on 150 oceanpro
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| blakesanborn |
Posted on 04/27/08 - 3:15 AM
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I know this is not that hard of a job.
But I thought I would ask the experts anyhow.
At idle I am running hot. Buy on a plane she runs great.
Impeller right?
Well now I am going to try and replace it myself.
I hear it is not very difficult. Drop the foot and replace the impeller.
Of course there has to be a right way to do it.
So I am fishing my favorite site to get tips.
Any help is good help.
Thanks in advance
Blake
Edited by Mike on 04/27/08 - 5:29 AM |
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| MW |
Posted on 04/27/08 - 4:25 AM
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I alway's replace the whole pump, it's pretty cheap, check the metal "wear plates" too (above and below the impeller), You must replace these even if they look good, they "Wear" and water will leak past the impeller reducing it's efficiency, and water pressure/volume. If you can get to the thermostats, I would replace them too.
mw
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| blakesanborn |
Posted on 04/28/08 - 2:37 AM
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Where are the thermostats located?
And MW are there any tricks to dropping the foot?
BLake
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| Blue_Northern |
Posted on 04/28/08 - 6:39 AM
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Be careful with the covers on the thermos -- I have an ocean pro and broke both of mine last year when replacing the old ones. Make sure to use the larger socket size for less stress on the cap and turn slowly. They are made of a composite plastic that gets brittle with age.
Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion |
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| blakesanborn |
Posted on 04/28/08 - 9:19 AM
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Thanks Rob,
I am assuming the thermostats now are on the cylinder covers which makes sense. But I am still fishing for the proper way to drop the foot.
I know there are four bolts but I am sure that there is another something to do to drop it.
Any help or guidance is a help.
Thanks
Blake
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 04/28/08 - 9:28 AM
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Blake,
In addition to the 4 bolts you can see, there are also two in the rear, right above the prop (you have to remove the small fin for access). Also, before doing any of that, you have to disconnect the shift rod, which is right under the carbs and can be a bit tricky to get to. Some remove the lower cowling port side for easier access as the bolt head is on that side. The easiest way to find this is to follow the shift linkage on the starboard side of the power head, it will lead you right to the connection point under the carbs.
And as Matt said, if you buy the whole water pump kit, there's an illustration in there of where and what sealant/lube to use. When was the last time it was changed out?
Good luck,
Dave
Edited by Derwd24 on 04/28/08 - 9:29 AM |
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| blakesanborn |
Posted on 04/28/08 - 9:51 AM
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I am not sure, for I have had the motor for only one year. But I am sure that it needs to be done for the good of the motor and my own sanity.
Thanks for your help I knew there was more to lowering that foot then what I was led to belive.
Blake
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| MW |
Posted on 04/28/08 - 12:47 PM
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I've never worked on the Ocean pro but, on the older V6's it's the 2 bolts behind the cowling that attaches the shift rod linkage that must be removed before the lower unit will drop down (put something under there to support it before removing bolts on linkage), it's on the same side as the shift cable, and linkage (not sure rt. or lft. side). If you're unsure of how many hours are on the water pump, it's best to change out the whole thing (housing and all), it's cheap insurance.
mw
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| Blue_Northern |
Posted on 04/28/08 - 2:01 PM
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Blake,
When I did my ocean pro last year the linkage was the hardest part. You may have to shift it to forward or reverse to get enough room to release the shifting rod. Mine was located directly in the middle-front of the motor under the air intake. If I recall there is one screw or bolt to remove then you slide the linkage off. There was some trick I used the second time I dropped my lower unit but without looking at it I can not remember what I did. I will take a look tonight and post my findings tomorrow.
Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 04/28/08 - 2:41 PM
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You're correct Rob, there is only one bolt holding the shift linkage, and it's threaded near the head, is smooth the rest of the way to allow the linkage to move smoothly when shifted. It can be a bugger to get to, but I find it even more difficult when reinstalling the lower unit. The difficulty is to have the flat top of the shift rod line up with the slot in the mechanism so the bolt can go back through. To make the whole process much easier, especially if you're doing it alone, once you remove the engine cover, it's only a matter of 3-4 more little bolts that hold the lower cowling halves together. Pull the lower cowling off and it will be much easier, plus when it's off, you can give the inside a good cleaning!
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| blakesanborn |
Posted on 04/30/08 - 2:27 AM
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Thats it I am going to do it myself now.
Paying some knuckle head $350.00 bucks to do it is not for me.
I will post back and tell you all how it comes out.
Blake
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| Blue_Northern |
Posted on 04/30/08 - 9:44 AM
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You can do it! Be sure to set up an area to work on the lower unit -- it does not weigh as much as you think it would but the first thing you will want to do is put it down. I set up a couple boards for the unit to rest between. Once in place I added a few more boards for support and clamped them around the lower unit. This way your hands are free and it sets right out in front of you for easy working.
Good Luck!
Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion |
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 04/30/08 - 1:05 PM
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I'm not sure about the Evinrude but my Yamaha was as easy as it gets. Make sure to apply a light coat of grease on the metal housing before installing the impeller. When you first start up the motor there will be nothing in there for lubrication. I always grease up the housing and I have had some impellers go for a couple of seasons (not recommended).
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| blakesanborn |
Posted on 05/01/08 - 1:53 AM
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All right I am going to do it today after work.
And thank you all
Blake
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| MW |
Posted on 05/01/08 - 9:09 AM
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I forgot who but, one of the w/c member's gave me a good tip on installing the impeller, use "Hair Gel" to get the impeller in, it's slippery and will wash away as soon as it gets water on it.
mw
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| blakesanborn |
Posted on 05/02/08 - 2:13 AM
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Well I tore the foot down last night and got to the impellor.
The task was as said not hard at all. Took me and a friend about 2 hours.
And that was while taking care of 2 two year olds too.
But my impeller did not look that bad. But it also looked like it had never been changed so I am glad I did it anyway.
Those inpellers ware out on the inside anyway right? Near the shaft?
And if MW says to use hair gel to get it on it was wore out. Becaust it flew off the shaft when I took it off.
Anyway I am going to buy the pump today and put it together tonight.
If I could figure out how to post pics, I would show the mess.
BLake
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| blakesanborn |
Posted on 05/05/08 - 2:25 AM
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Well guys I was succesful in the replacement of my impeller.
It only took me two tear downs to get it right but I did.
And it was my problem overall with the overheatiing.
So I appreciate the great support I got from all of you above.
I did not take any pictures because I was so damn filthy from it and just honestly forgot.
Thanks Again
Blake
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| MW |
Posted on 05/05/08 - 3:03 AM
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WELL DONE ! You just saved a ton of $$$$, even if the impeller was in good shape, over "TIME", they (impeller vanes) tend to "SET" in one direction becoming less efficient, brittle, and eventually breaking a vane off, you don't want "Aluminum" heads to Overheat. Inspect the "Wear Plates" closely, you'll see small gouges in the metal where the water was getting past the impeller.
mw
Edited by MW on 05/05/08 - 3:07 AM |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 05/05/08 - 6:26 AM
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I've seen some guys gauge the impeller condition by looking at the fins not long after it's been removed from the housing. If they straighten, it indicates the impeller was in decent shape, but if they hold the bend, it indicates it was time for replacement. But either way it's good to swap it out, especially if you thought it was causing problems. If they reoccur, it's one variable accounted for. Good work!
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| blakesanborn |
Posted on 05/06/08 - 1:22 AM
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 Yes the impeller was stuck in a circle and the metal plate was wore out too.
I am really glad that you all recommended replacing the whole housing.
Thanks
Blake
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