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What should i do?
JoeyV
#1 Print Post
Posted on 03/21/08 - 2:22 PM
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One of the cyl is not always firing. Should find someone to replace it (1985 evinrude 50 hp vro)or look at used motors. Do not have the money to buy new.

 
Binkie
#2 Print Post
Posted on 03/21/08 - 3:02 PM
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Could be just a bad coil.

Rich

 
finfish04
#3 Print Post
Posted on 03/21/08 - 3:27 PM
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Hi,I have run into the same problem with my 1982 90 hp.I still do not know if it is working properly.I will know when I fire her up this spring.This is what I did ( I made your #1 different because you had stated previously that the engine needed to run fast to keep running ,Your carbs maybe varnished up from just sitting or maybe not properly winterized with gas stable added and not being fogged. 1) Run some fuel cleaner (I used Sea foam)thru the engine,Let it run a while.2)Replace both plugs,cheep fix your going to need them anyway. 3)check for spark to each of the cylinders remove a wire one at a time while running( use a very well insulated pair of pliers and gloves so you do not get a shock), see which cylinder makes the engine run the same or cuts the engine out.If spark to both Cylinders my guess fuel. If spark is missing on one of the cylinders my guess coil. I would not buy parts other than the plugs till you determine which cylinder is affected and you determine fuel or electrical.Please remember this is what I did. Be careful with both the fuel and electrical applications I described if you are uncomfortable doing any of these procedures take it to a mechanic . Hope this helps,Dino

 
ioptfm
#4 Print Post
Posted on 03/21/08 - 3:57 PM
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Joey, I doubt that you have a problem that warrants replacing the motor, if it running. I agree with Binkie and finfish that it is probably electircal and more than likely carb gum as well. Try what was suggested above and see what happens. Be careful when adding carb cleaner spray while the motor is running in that you can easily get a backfire out of the carb that could be both dangerous and costly. By the way, you have a fantastic boat dealer and mechanic a few miles from you. Stop in to see Richard at Cape Romain Marine and I'm sure they can give you some advice and provide you with the proper cleaners


Tom
1979 Sport 15'
 
JoeyV
#5 Print Post
Posted on 03/22/08 - 4:28 AM
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Very sorry I was is a ruksh when first posted there is more. The Carbs have been rebulit, timing has been replace, and ignition coil has been replace. Motor run on land with still missing. When it is in the water and you go to put into gear stalls out. When it was running on land i pulled the bottom plug she runs with out missing, put bottom plug back still runs but starts missing. This makes me think that the cyl is shot or would that have anything to do with it stalling out in the water. I have check gas and new plugs and do not know what to do. I am not the best person when it come to fixing stuff(motors) think this might be a go start to learn.

 
MW
#6 Print Post
Posted on 03/22/08 - 5:44 AM
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Just a guess but, did you check the spark plug wires for exposed cracks or a split, sometimes they "Chafe" against something, try switching the wires (Mark one with tape before you remove it so you know where it goes back to). I've had a problem like this on a motor, it would only "Arc" and give me trouble when I reached the upper part of the rpm zone. Inspect wires very carefully, cracks can be small, and only exposed when the wire is bent.
mw

 
JoeyV
#7 Print Post
Posted on 03/22/08 - 3:00 PM
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Ok I am hard headed and sometimes a dumb ass but I put the boat in the water again today. Replace plug wires and it seemed to run a lot beter on land. No it seems to only have about 1/2 the hp now. Had it wot and the hp is gone. Today was a very dumb day with wind and tides with the moon but what can i say. I am ichy to get in the water. What would cause it to run at 1/2 the hp.

 
Jeff
#8 Print Post
Posted on 03/22/08 - 4:35 PM
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If you are sure it is getting spark you may have a blown head gasket. If you pull all of the plugs and you find one is perfectly clean, while the others show some burn and carbon build up, that is a dead give away it is a leaky head gasket.


1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
 
finfish04
#9 Print Post
Posted on 03/22/08 - 7:17 PM
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Hi, At this point I would do a compression test. Remove both plugs then use a compression gauge and measure the compression on each of the cylinders.If one shows little or no compression, then if you are lucky it could be a head gasket. If not, could be a scored cylinder or a stuck ring or broken ring.Take your time and be as thorough as possible and double check everything before taking apart or replacing parts. If you are going to work on your motor I strongly suggest you invest $25.00 and purchase a good repair manual. Hope this helps,Dino

 
Royboy
#10 Print Post
Posted on 03/23/08 - 5:50 AM
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An engine needs three things to run properly:

1) Fuel
2)Compression
3)Spark

If you lack any one of these three, your engine will not run properly. By what you have described so far, it is clear that one of these three things is not happening in one of your cylinders. This is why you don't have full horsepower (only part of your engine is working properly) When troubleshooting such a problem, I like to start with the easiest, cheapest thing first, which in this case will be spark.

Remove a spark plug and reconnect the plug wire with the spark plug out of the engine. Have someone "bump" the ignition over while grounding the plug to the engine block near the gap. You should be able to see a spark in the gap. Got spark? Check the other cylinder(s). If not, you have isolated the basic problem: no spark. Again, start with easiest, cheapest first: replace the spark plugs. Test again. Still no spark? Replace the wire (if replaceable) or the coil.

Got spark on all cylinders? Move to the next easiest thing: Fuel. Have your assistant "bump" the ignition over a few times, then take out a spark plug. Smell gas? If yes, check the other cylinders. Got gas on all cylinders? Time to rent a compression tester (or hit up that buddy who has all the tools). Remove a spark plug and replace it with the compression tester. Have your assistant "bump" the ignition over and take the reading. Write it down. Check the rest of the cylinders, and write them down. Is there a large difference in one of the cylinders? Check it again. If one of the readings is way off, then you have your answer.

Even if you're not handy, the knowlege you gain by following these simple steps will be very useful for troubleshooting any engine, and particularly your engine. Go back at it with a plan. Be careful when bumping the ignition over, because the engine could start. Pay attention to all of the parts and look then over well. Any obvious damage to plugs, wires, hoses, mechanical connections, etc., should be repaired or replaced. Take your time, and don't jump to the most expensive fix first. Although it's good for the economy, it's usually bad for one's checking account.

Good luck.

 
JoeyV
#11 Print Post
Posted on 03/23/08 - 8:49 AM
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Thanks a lot Roy. I have spark and it is getting gas. The only thing i have not done is compression. Can you rent one of the testers or are they cheap. Not that anything with boats is cheap. How could this happen. Winter got boat and put in water hp was there. It was very hard to start and keep running. After changing plugs, wires,carb rebuild, timing it starts but now no hp.

 
Royboy
#12 Print Post
Posted on 03/23/08 - 10:53 AM
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They're not super expensive, but you should be able to rent one form a big-box auto parts store. There is a built-in adapter on them for metric or SAE plug threads, so an automotive one will work fine.

Good luck,

 
JoeyV
#13 Print Post
Posted on 03/24/08 - 8:18 AM
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Could the cyl be stuck? If it is stuck is there anything to spray that might unstuck it. Where would you spray it if there is such a thing in boats.

 
Royboy
#14 Print Post
Posted on 03/24/08 - 8:32 AM
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Cylinders to not get "stuck". It's not a moving part, just a tube in which the piston moves up and down. It looks as though you're at the point where you need to take it to someone who can diagnose it properly. The recomendation above sounds like your best bet.

 
JoeyV
#15 Print Post
Posted on 03/24/08 - 9:04 AM
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How do you set the timing on boats. If the guy changed it like he said i think it is off and will not take back to him. Aready has $500 with him and the motor is no different now then before. It looks like he might have because the fly wheel looks to have be taken off but me not a mech i dont know. But if anyone knows how to set timing that might help me. I am reaching now but love this motor.

 
CES
#16 Print Post
Posted on 03/24/08 - 1:39 PM
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Time to have an "Affair" on that motor and get another one!!

Just kidding.

Seriously, you may not have a good set of plugs. You might have spark but the plugs may not be sending all of that spark to the cylinder. I've flown planes that worked wonderfully on the ground but once the thing got airborne, the engine sputtered and I wasn't getting full power. Come to find out the plugs, once they got warm, didn't work as well as they should have. I got back on the ground, replaced all of the plugs with NEW ones and it ran great.

I know comparing a boat to a plane is like comparing apples to oranges but they both are running normally aspirated gas engines.....difference being is the engines are on different platforms.

Just my $.02


Edited by CES on 03/24/08 - 1:41 PM
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
 
JoeyV
#17 Print Post
Posted on 03/24/08 - 2:20 PM
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That is the thing. I have replaced all wires and plugs. I think the dumb ass that worked on it missed it up. Before he got it it was hard to start. Now it starts eveytime just not all of the hp. I know in cars if the timing is off it will not have all of its hp.

 
ioptfm
#18 Print Post
Posted on 03/24/08 - 5:56 PM
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I think that I would take it back to the guy that originally worked on it and stay there with him while he checks it out again, instead of leaving it with him. Sounds like he may be one of those well known "Shade tree mechanics"


Tom
1979 Sport 15'
 
Pete
#19 Print Post
Posted on 03/24/08 - 6:12 PM
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I launched this past weekend for the first time this season. Started the engine and it was running rough. I figured I needed to burn off the winterizing and such...
It would idle fine at about 1000 rpm and no good at all with a load and stall when put in gear. The engine gave about 2000 rpm wot. I checked my plug wires and noticed that I crossed the wires to a pair of cyls. I cant believe I did not notice and I looked at this 10 X before I launched. I looked at the book and confirmed what I already was sure of, swithed the wire back and the engine is great.
Just a thought.
Pete

 
MW
#20 Print Post
Posted on 03/25/08 - 9:22 AM
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Can you put the old plug wires back on, fire up the motor just to see what happen's ??? Call me "Kooky" but, I've bought new spark plug wires before that were defective. People open the box, look at them, then wrap them tightly around their hand before putting them back in the box, breaking the core. How is that fuel pump Diaphram ??? any pin holes in it, did anyone check that ??? just a thought.
mw

 
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