Help Repower 90 HP E-TEC - 1964 Sakonnet
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thetis |
Posted on 05/30/11 - 11:56 PM
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I am repowering with a new 90 HP E-Tec, replacing a 1984 60 HP Johnson twin. The old motor had 4 bolts through the transom into the splash well. The dealer says that the top bolt holes match up, but the bottom 2 do not. He is suggesting that they go through the transom underneath the splashwell.
Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Patrick
Edited by Tom W Clark on 06/01/11 - 10:48 AM |
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 05/31/11 - 4:22 AM
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See this article on WhalerCentral.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=82
Do not let him drill so the holes are underneath where you can't get to them.
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zappaddles |
Posted on 05/31/11 - 4:31 AM
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The 2 recent threads about engine mounting height by Jack Jordan and by zappaddles. Might contain some helpful information for you.
Zap
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Geo |
Posted on 05/31/11 - 4:50 AM
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Set it up so the lower two holes enter into the bottom of the splash well. The top 2 holes will be above these holes. You can then mount the motor as high as you like and you will still have access to the bolts and nuts in order to make removing the motor easy.
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 05/31/11 - 7:30 AM
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This is such a common FAQ. Read the article Joe linked to. Follow Joe's advice NOT to let the installer drill below the splashwell.
In a nut shell, he should drill two new transom bolt holes that are 9-7/8" apart but only 6-1/2" below the existing upper holes, not 8" below likes he wants to.
When you tell him this and he objects, saying the motor will not be able to mounted all the way down on the transom, tell him YOU DO NOT WANT THE MOTOR ALL THE WAY DOWN ON THE TRANSOM. Yes, you should yell this at him.
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thetis |
Posted on 05/31/11 - 7:37 AM
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Thanks for the good advice.
Dumb question # 1: What is a AV plate?
I lived in Missouri for 9 years, so I am a little slow on the uptake.
Install the motor per Joe's diagram and that will raise the motor height.
Appreciate all your fellows help.
Excellen the rersponses that you get between midnight and 5 am on the west Coast.
Thanks to all of you
Patrick
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 05/31/11 - 7:50 AM
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Patrick -- The AV plate is the anti-ventilation plate, also known as anti-cavitation plate or cavitation plate, for short.
For a propeller you should use the 13-7/8" x 17" BRP Viper or the 13-1/4" x 15" Stiletto Advantge 4.25.
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thetis |
Posted on 05/31/11 - 2:28 PM
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Dealer says it can't be done.
He says if you raise the engine 2 holes the bottom bolts still won't go into the splash well. He is leery of he motor boat running properly on the second hole.
Lots of negatives
Does anybody have a link to the mounting bracket of an E-Tech 90?
I agree strongly with you guys about drilling through the bottom of the splash well.
Help greatly appreciated
Patrick
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 05/31/11 - 2:57 PM
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Your dealer is an idiot. He is trying to put the lower bolts through the second set of lower bolt holes when he should be putting them through the TOP SET of lower bolt holes.
This is precisely why I specified the vertical spacing be 6-1/2" not 8".
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 05/31/11 - 8:30 PM
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Here is a photo of an E-TEC 90 mounted on a classic Montauk.
Note that this motor is not mounted "one hole up" (using the second bolt hole), it is not mounted "two holes up" (using the third bolt hole), it is mounted "three holes up" (using the fourth and lowest bolt hole), as high as the motor can possibly go.
The owner uses a 13-1/4" x 15" Stiletto Advantage 4.25 and reports no ventilation or blow out at all.
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y104...C_0081.jpg
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Phil T |
Posted on 06/01/11 - 5:31 AM
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Thetis-
Print the article and this thread and bring it to the dealer.
There are more that 50 owners who have asked the same question, read the article and followed the advice and been totally happy.
Just tell the dealer, it's your money and you want it done per the article. Be polite but firm. Bring him the article.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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rfiglia |
Posted on 06/01/11 - 5:58 AM
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look at my personal page, my 90 etec is mounted 3 holes up and my bottom bolts are clearly in the splashwell.
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 06/01/11 - 7:22 AM
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rfiglia -- Is your E-TEC 90 really as high as it can possibly be mounted?
What propeller do you use and how does it perform? Does it ventilate in turns?
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rfiglia |
Posted on 06/01/11 - 10:45 AM
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Tom I can go up 1 more hole, I should have said 2 holes up using the third hole, I am using a Stiletto 15 pitch
Edited by rfiglia on 06/01/11 - 10:48 AM |
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 06/01/11 - 10:49 AM
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OK, your E-TEC is mounted "Two Holes Up" using the third set of bolt holes.
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Finnegan |
Posted on 06/01/11 - 12:41 PM
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thetis - the advice you are getting here is correct, and you may need a new delaer!
Not long ago I help install an Evinrude V-4 on a 1965 Whaler 16' hull, which had the same transom bracket bolt hole design as the new Evinrudes. So that the lower bolts will come into the splashwell, the engine ended up about 1-1/2" high, which will give good perfromance with the proper SS prop.
It is easy to determine how high the mounting will be. Standard recomendations are for the centerline of the lower set of bolts to be 9-7/8" below the top of the transom. If the spashwell is not deep enouigh to accomodate this dimension, determine what dimension will work. Don't forget the larger diameter of the washers also. Subtract that from the 9-7/8" dimension, and you will have the effective hieght of the engine mounting. With the old 16' hull, the top holes will most likely be 6-1/2" centerline above the bottom set of holes. I would use large diameter fender washers on the top bolts on the inside. The engine installer will also have to take into consideration the curve in the Whaler transom when doing the drilling.
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 06/02/11 - 6:48 AM
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OK, we have new information. Last night thetis emailed me a link to photos taken by the dealer that show the transom of this boat was cut down with a notch at some point in the past.
Photos of E-TEC 90 Sitting on the Chopped Transom
This is very, very unfortunate.
In the third photo of the four photos in the album there is a note from the dealer that states: THE HULL AND THIS PLATE NEED TO BE LINED UP.
I want to stop right here and point out that this is a classic error that long time dealers continue to make. The AV plate should be well above the bottom of the hull! Unfortunately it is going to be difficult to accomplish this now without rebuilding the transom, which is what really needs to happen.
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 06/02/11 - 7:03 AM
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Short of rebuilding the transom, the only way I can see to make this work is to use the existing top holes in the transom and mount the E-TEC there using the BOTTOM most holes in the motor's mounting bracket.
Assuming the transom was notched to a depth of no more than 1 inch, this might work. It will result in the motor effectivly being in a not-quite "two holes up" mounting position relative to where the top of the transom used to be before it was cut down. The lower bolt holes in the transom will be 5-3/4" below the top bolt holes.
Using the VERY TOP OF THE LOWER BOLT SLOTS in the motor's mounting bracket should allow the lower bolts to clear the splashwell. The washers used there may need to be clipped or curved to fit the splashwell as described in this Boston Whaler Dealer Notice
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thetis |
Posted on 06/02/11 - 9:24 AM
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Tom,
Appreciate all your help.
Assuming that the transom was not notched, how far down from the top of the transom should the AV plate be?
Likewise how far up from the very bottom of the transom should the AV plate be?
Any pictures out there of an E Tech mounted on a classic that I could show my dealer.
Thanks
Patrick
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 06/02/11 - 9:29 AM
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Patrick -- It doesn't matter how the AV plate relates to the top of the transom. The goal is the get the AV plate about ONE INCH ABOVE the bottom of the hull.
Some propellers will allow a much greater distance than that. The E-TEC 90 in the photo I liked to earlier has its AV plate about 1-3/4" to 2" above the bottom of the keel.
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