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NEW motor spraying water in boat
Kevinhunter11
#1 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 5:40 AM
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Dealer just installed a new (2004 in the box) Merc saltwater series 150 EFI. Upon sea trial it sprays a fan of water like crazy, to the point some even comes back in the boat. Getting 4200 rpm vs engine spec 5750. Dealer put a 26p prop on against my (and Merc web site) recomendation of a 17p to 18p wheel. Said the engine needed a bigger wheel. The engine mounting plate also covers the center transom scupper and will not allow water to exit the boat. I told the dealer it was mounted to low but he insisted that the engine bracket had to be seated on the transom. Boat is a 1984 Outrage 18. Original Johnson 140 bit the dust a month ago. Freshwater.


Kevin
1984 Outrage 18, 150 Mercury EFI Saltwater
 
Josey Whaler
#2 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 5:44 AM
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I hope you got a good deal on the motor...cause I would run with reckless abandon from that dealer, before he does some real damage. 26P prop is a joke and you should remove it immediately.

Search this site for other 18 Outrage, 150 HP engine combination's for some propellers to try. Depending on what specific propeller you choose, you should be in the 17P-19P range; Not one close to 26P.


Edited by Josey Whaler on 08/27/10 - 5:50 AM
 
CES
#3 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 6:06 AM
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Seems to me that your motor should be raised a hole or two on the transom. The spray might be coming from the cavitation plate set below the waterline and causing splashback.


Edited by CES on 08/27/10 - 6:06 AM
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
 
thegage
#4 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 6:16 AM
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I'm with Josey--find a competent dealer who can work with you. The motor is just plain too low. My new motor exhibited the exact same symptoms as yours. All the dealer said was, "She's all set, and she does throw a rooster tail." Yeah, right. I immediately raised the engine about 3/4" and the rooster tail/wash pretty much went away. I still needed to raise the motor more, but at least I knew the right direction.

John K.

 
Jeff
#5 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 9:22 AM
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The dealer you are dealing with sounds completely and totally incompetent.  You should demand that the motor set set up correctly and met the manufacture specified operating WOT.  This would include raising the motor up one maybe two holes and installing a lower pitched propeller to reach the spec'd RPMs.  If they are unwilling to do that contact Mercury and escalate it up the line until you get things where they need to be.  

Personally I would be contacting Mercury no matter what to inform them of the utter incompetence you encountered with their dealer.  No manufacture would in their right mind want a retailer representing their company in such a poor manner.   


1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
 
Joe Kriz
#6 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 10:13 AM
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I think you will find that almost all the Outrage 18's have the engine mounted one or two holes up on average. I have seen a couple mounted all the way up.
My 1985 Evinrude is mounted 1 hole up and needs to go up another hole.

Most 150 engines on the Outrage 18's are running 17 to 19 pitch props depending on brand.

 
Kevinhunter11
#7 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 10:49 AM
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Thanks for confirming my thoughts. I pretty certain of the incompetance of the dealer (aka. rectal cranial inversion) soon after meeting them but the deal was too good (8K vs. 13K). Sincerely wish I would have paid the long dollar and dealt with a reputable business. Note to self "never deal with people who keep baseball bats next to their desk".
One more question, would it be possible to use a floor jack to move the engine up two holes? i do not have an overhead dead fall and there is NO WAY i would allow the dealer near my boat.


Kevin
1984 Outrage 18, 150 Mercury EFI Saltwater
 
CES
#8 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 10:58 AM
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Kevin,

I've used a floor jack to raise mine however I'm running a 40 vs. your 150.

I think that if you used a peice of 2x4 between the skeg and the jack, along with a few friends to help stabilize the motor, that you'd be okay going that route. maybe some of the "larger engine" guys will chime in on that advice.

Post pictures in your personal page when you get a chance...we love seeing each others boat.


Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
 
Joe Kriz
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Posted on 08/27/10 - 11:02 AM
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This is how I raise my engine.

With a helper if possible......
Lower the jack on the trailer.
Put blocks under the fin of the motor to take the weight.
Loosen the lower two bolts.
Remove the upper two bolts and have someone balance the engine just in case. (I didn't have a helper and it worked out but it is still better to have a helper).
Raise the trailer jack and the transom will start to lower.
Go up 2 holes and put the upper bolts back in.
Tighten all bolts. (use new sealant on upper bolts.)

NOTE:
Do not let the lower bolts turn so the sealant is not broken. Only loosen the nuts. This way you don't need to remove the bolts and put new sealant in the lower bolt holes.

 
Jeff
#10 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 11:15 AM
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If you are going to raise that I would lift from the top. You can buy a Mercury Lifting ring for not much money that quickly screws into the flywheel top and gives you a pick point. Heck you can likely barrow one but, I would buy one as it will always come in handy.

Then find a large tree limb, overhead I-Beam or like structure to sling a come-along over and lift like that.

This is an image of how I lifted my Evinrude using this method
[img]http://whalercentral.com/forum/attachments/motora.jpg[/img]


Edited by Jeff on 08/27/10 - 11:17 AM
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
 
John Fyke
#11 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 11:29 AM
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I used an engine hoist on my Yamaha 200. You can rent one but like Jeff says you will need the lifting ring. Joe's way would work just fine also. BUT, get some help if you've never done it before.


John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
 
Josey Whaler
#12 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 12:54 PM
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Kevin, really not too much to worry about as long as the engine works O.K. You can easily complete the necessary adjustments with advise here. I would press your dealer for a new 19P prop though. Sounds like you got a good deal on the engine.

 
dreilly
#13 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 1:02 PM
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I'm running a Yamaha 150 on my Outrage 18 ('86) with a 19 pitch prop. Mount either 1 or 2 holes up and you will stay dry.

 
DWinter
#14 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 3:51 PM
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A 26 inch pitch prop??? Good God. Not to mention the mounting. I'd tell you to bring it to us but you're a long way away. Yes that prop is way too tall and obviously the motor is improperly mounted. You can lower the trim all the way down, set a block of wood under the skeg with the trailer tongue jack all the way down. Then take out the mounting bolts, while having someone steady the motor, then raise the tongue jack until the cavitation plate is even with the keel and bolt it in place. It's sort of a backwards way of thinking but trust me it works. Instead of raising the motor to mount it, lower the transom by raising the bow. And yes, the skeg will support that motor.

Oops, sorry, I didn't read all of Joe's post telling you to do the same thing. Yeah, what he said.


Edited by DWinter on 08/27/10 - 3:53 PM
Duane G Winter
1984 BW Sport 15 Center Console
 
Joe Kriz
#15 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 4:08 PM
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Duane,

Great minds think alike....

That method works great for me too.

 
Binkie
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Posted on 08/27/10 - 4:16 PM
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For the safe sure and easy way rent a portable cherry picker from your local tool rental place. That way you don`t need no stinkin helper.


Rich
 
CES
#17 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 4:40 PM
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Binkie wrote:
For the safe sure and easy way rent a portable cherry picker from your local tool rental place. That way you don`t need no stinkin helper.


Hey Bink,

Who the heck is he gonna drink beer with when he's done?? ;-)


Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
 
Derwd24
#18 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 5:01 PM
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I've used the method Joe and Duane describe above to lift our 200 HO Etec solo, works great. The trick when doing it alone is to use shims on the top of the transom each time you crank the trailer jack to keep the engine steady. The other thing I recommend is drawing a light pencil line on both sides of the engine bracket on the transom before starting. That way when you get the engine up, you'll have a reference line to ensure that the engine is still perpendicular as there is some wiggle room from vertical (on my set up anyway).


Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
 
Phil T
#19 Print Post
Posted on 08/27/10 - 5:17 PM
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I used the trailer jack method described above to move my F115 weighing 405 lbs It was straightforward. I highly recommend a helper to steady the motor.

If you want to rent a hoist, feel free but it is not necessary in my opinion.


1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
 
Kevinhunter11
#20 Print Post
Posted on 08/29/10 - 5:11 AM
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Turns out the anti-cavitation plate is about 2" above the bottom of the keel, so I don't think I should bring it up any. She's perfoming alot better with the new prop, rpms are up, but cavitates on corners and porpoises unless I tilt it all the may down and then you get the whale tail spray in the boat.
Perhaps I need a jack plate to lower the motor?
Dealer said it was the 25" long shaft, serial number indicates XL...


Kevin
1984 Outrage 18, 150 Mercury EFI Saltwater
 
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