Battery Selector Switch Installation
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cindalyn |
Posted on 06/11/09 - 7:28 PM
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I'm installing a battery selector switch and need some help with the wiring.
BLACK
I'm connecting the (-) terminal on one battery to the (-) terminal on the other battery which is also conneted to the (-) ground from the engine. Attached to this terminal is a smaller gage wire which goes to the (-) bus.
RED[color=#ff0000][/color]
I'm connecting the (+) of one battery to the #1 terminal on the battery selector switch and the (+)[color=#ff0000][/color] or the 2nd battery to the #2 terminal on the battery selector switch.
I'm connecting the (+) from the engine to the COMMON on the selector switch.
I'm pretty sure the small gauge wire presently connected to the (+) battery terminal should go to the COMMON on the selector switch. Is this correct? If so, this wire is too short to reach the selector switch. Rather than splicing the wire to get the length I'd rather replace it. Does this wire go anywhere other than from the (+) bus to the (+) terminal of the battery?
I can't tell because it's part of the harness.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 06/11/09 - 7:31 PM |
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Salty Tricks |
Posted on 06/12/09 - 9:03 AM
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Do you know what the small (+) wire on the battery is feeding? is it a bilge pump wire? Is it a feed to an accesory fuse block or terminal block?
If it's the feed to the accessory bus then you can go ahead and wire it to the common on the battery switch.
If it's the bilge you may want to keep that powered all the time regrdless of the battery switch. Therefore it should be wired to one of the batteries (+) direct.
Either way make sure that wire is fused
Edited by Salty Tricks on 06/12/09 - 9:10 AM |
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Phil T |
Posted on 06/12/09 - 9:22 AM
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Ron - What is the brand and model number of the switch?
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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cindalyn |
Posted on 06/12/09 - 4:45 PM
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Got it figured out and operating. The harness was covered with the plastic split tube and I managed to pull it apart. The wire was only feeding the positive bus, nothing else.
Phil. it's the Bluesea 9001e. I attached it inside the console right on the end of the lower tray right inside the unhinged side of the door. It would be nice if there was a little more room but it's out of the way and easy to get to. Wires all tucked away nice and neatly under the tray.
Ron
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cindalyn |
Posted on 06/14/09 - 10:15 AM
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In the process of testing the switch I found that I can start the engine in all 3 positions i.e., 1 - BOTH - 2.
However, I also discovered that, without starting the engine, my GPS turns off when I turn the switch from any position. This being the case I'm not comfortable with the idea of switching positions with the engine running for fear of damage.
The wire connections are stated in my post above. If the wiring is correct, should the GPS (+) bus be seeing an loss of voltage when turning the switch?
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 06/14/09 - 10:37 AM
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You should never ever turn the switch with the engine running.
You could do damage to the charging and electrical system.
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Phil T |
Posted on 06/14/09 - 12:12 PM
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Joe -
While I wanted to post that, I looked at the instruction manual for the Blue Seas switch, it only said, don't turn the switch to OFF while running. Not the best instructions.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 06/14/09 - 12:19 PM
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Phil,
Could be... but it is better to be safe then sorry.
A momentary loss of connection may blow out the rectifier/regulator and possibly the tach.
I accidentally turned my switch to off once while I thought I was switching to #2 battery or to ALL....
Blew out the rectifier and the tach.... Smoke started coming out of the tach and the charging system no longer was charging.
A couple of hundred dollars later and I will never turn my battery switch when the engine is running.
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cindalyn |
Posted on 06/14/09 - 4:43 PM
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Phil, the Installation Instructions actually indicate:
"When moving the 4 Position Switch from battery 1 to battery 2, the selector should be moved through BOTH, not through OFF, to insure a continuous supply of power to the ship's circuits."
It was my understanding that these switches were 'Make Before Break' meaning there would NOT be a loss of power going from one position to another.
If this is not the case these instructions should be rewritten!
Joe, the manufacturers of these switches could really make a product improvement by redesigning the knob and simply molding a positive stop at an appropriate position so the switch could not be turned to stop except in one direction. This would at least eliminate an accidental turn off in the one direction.
I'd be interested to know if there are any boaters who are using this or another selector switch and switching positions while the motor while it is running and whether they had problems or not.
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