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13' Restoration assistance needed?
e_digg	#1  Posted on 06/09/09 - 11:51 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 85 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/09/09	I purchased our neighbors' 1966 13' sport for a nominal price. The body has crazing everywhere but I was just going to let it be. The wood is rotten and I was going to replace it. After reading a few articles over a week or so I decided to weigh the boat. I used 2 scales, one in the front and one in the back. She came in at 400 pounds. I know that is a little over but the boat has been sitting outside uncovered for over 15 years. My major concern is that it appears that one side of the rear is much heavier than the other. With the boat on the trailer, the front was resting on the roller and I put a scale under each fin in the back. One side weighed in at 60 pounds and the other at 130. It appears to me that one side of the boat is water logged. The boat was tilted on the heavier side all that time sitting on the trailer since the trailer was broken. What should or can I do. Is it fixable or is it a junkyard item? Thanks Ed Edited by e_digg on 06/09/09 - 11:52 AM
CES	#2  Posted on 06/09/09 - 12:14 PM
Member Personal Page Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 2681 Comments: 7 Joined: 04/27/07	I'd float it first and see how far it lists to the heavier side. Cliff 1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
moose	#3  Posted on 06/09/09 - 1:34 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 543 Comments: 1 Joined: 03/07/07	Definitely NOT a candidate for the junk yard. It seems to have about 100 lbs of water in it if the scales weighed it correctly. If you drill a few 1/4" holes in the bottom near the transom and tilt the front up it should drain out quite a bit. It will take a while, but it will come out. Water weighs about 8 1/3 lbs per gallon so I think you would be good getting 10 or so gallons out. You will never get it all dry, but that's ok. You have an area on the inner hull that is allowing water to penetrate and get inside. After you drain it, find that and seal it up and you should be good to go. On mine, the bottom drain in the anchor locker did not connect to the drain into the cockpit. Good luck and keep us posted. Mike
MW	#4  Posted on 06/09/09 - 1:51 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	I say give it a shot first, "float it" like "CES" said. Many older hull's have "some" water in them due to many owners adding thing's to the hull (drilling holes topside). Check it out first, you might be surprised, those 13's are pretty "Tough", and bounce back well, there's a reason that they've lasted so long. Matt
TechTeach	#5  Posted on 06/09/09 - 5:04 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 120 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/09/09	Drain it!!! We got 6 gallons out of our old 15 years ago, the sealer her up. Tilt the boat up at least 45 degrees.
Turpin	#6  Posted on 06/09/09 - 6:10 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 434 Comments: 20 Joined: 07/04/08	Though drilling has worked for some, in my case I wished I had just went ahead with cutting a large patch from the interior removed all reachable wet foam and poured new foam back in reinstalled patch. I drilled a bunch of holes (3/8in.) in mine and yes water did come out. Later I had to fix a crack in the bottom and found that I still had alot of water in the hull. It would have been far quicker for me to fix the one patch plus the hull would be much drier rather I had to fix 2 dozen holes and the hull is still wet (wow didn't mean to cry). Be careful on taking the scales weight, I too would recommend floating the boat and see how or if it sets heavy on one side. If you think it is heavy and want to drill holes, I would'nt get carried away. If you have time to wait let it drip but be warned I did the same thing as recommended (steep angle drip for 7 months) only wished that I had done things different. As far as the Dump. My Whaler was in terrible shape when I got it 14 yrs ago. Many friends suggested that I take it to the dump. Now they can appreciate that they were just being materialistic and short minded. Theres not much you can't do with fiberglass it just takes time and patience sometimes alot of both. Edited by Turpin on 06/09/09 - 6:15 PM 1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
e_digg	#7  Posted on 06/09/09 - 6:38 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 85 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/09/09	Thanks for the replies. I sure didn't want to ditch the boat. Where exactly should I drill the holes and how many. Also how deep? Can somebody post a picture or something? I don't want to drill in the wrong spot that would affect the hull in any way. Now what about the crazing. Is that only cosmetic? Will water get through it? Like I said it doesn't really bother me and I would keep it the way it is. Thanks Ed
kamie	#8  Posted on 06/09/09 - 6:52 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	Ed, I have an 18 and a 13 project boat not two steps from you in Hague. First, I would get a real weight on the boat. Assuming you have a trailer that now is road worthy tow the trailer and boat to Warsaw to the lumber yard and run it over their scale. Then dump the boat off the trailer, go back and re-weight. The weight shows on the LED readout over the building. I get funny looks from the guard, but just wave a lot, never had an issue. Once you get a good weight, I would float the boat, before you drill. If she really lists to one side, spend some time looking for entrance holes where water could get in. depending on how deep you want to get into the repair, or how bad the list you may choose to open up the boat and refoam or close up the holes and go fishing. If you choose the latter option, just know you probably can't enter a speed run without over powering. Also, take so photo's and create a personal page here so we can see the boat and any progress you make.
Turpin	#9  Posted on 06/09/09 - 7:05 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 434 Comments: 20 Joined: 07/04/08	The spider cracks are for the most parts costmetic take a good at cracks it corners such as around the bow and back at the transom. I had a few in both areas even when ground I them down it was questionable what they really were. If you decide to fix the worst cracks you'll need to grind down to the finerglass, you may see a light colored line in the glass do not be alarmed as I found it came from sun bleaching the line into the glass. 1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
LabCab	#10  Posted on 06/09/09 - 9:32 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 100 Comments: 7 Joined: 01/17/09	FWIW a typical Shorland'r trailer for a 13' weighs 171 lbs. You could subtract that amount from your total weight and save the ordeal at the lumber yard scales. If the boat is terribly over weight I would cut a big rectangle out of the non skid, remove the foam and flip the boat and let it drain for a few weeks. You could work on the bottom during this period. www.metanmarine.com click on "restorations" shows pulling foam from an old hull. One big square will be a lot easier to repair than a lot of small holes.
los is 7	#11  Posted on 06/10/09 - 7:31 AM
Member Posts: 56 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/29/08	Something else you could do... I do composite repairs, and vacum repairs are our bread and butter. I use a vacum transducer to dry out all our parts before repair. I have done this on a couple of boats with success it just takes a little while to find all the air leaks.
e_digg	#12  Posted on 06/10/09 - 8:01 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 85 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/09/09	I have updated my profile with some pictures so you can see the affects of leaving a boat outdoors in the elements and what I have to start with. kamie - I am off of Nomini Creek. Were you at Sharks Tooth Island 2 weeks ago with a mid 80's BW that I was talking to? I currently have the boat in No. VA and there is a scale nearby that I can use. I will also drop it off in the water to see how bad it lists. LabCab - the scales were between the trailer and the boat.