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Over the years, this hull has taken it on the chin so to speak many times. It seems now that I have just made things worse for the boat and myself, by attentatively but inexpertly self repairing these breaks and punctures. Despite all my good intentions, I am a non expert in tha materials and the techniques needed. So, one of my repairs along the keel caved through when the boat was coming up across a keel roller, and now I want it repaired right, and not by me.
My question is: why was I asked the question whether my boat model was a blue interior hull or a tan one? What changed around that '83 year or era in the core material or the construction of these hulls?
How long does the hull need to be drydocked and drained before professional repair? And does anyone have any techniques beyond time and patience that would be additionally helpful to accomplish this...hairdryer, etc.
1977 or so the change was to a smirked hull.After the repair consider installing a keel guard on the boat. I put one on and it works great. No more worries about boat beaching. The keel guard glues to the bottom up front and has a lifetime warranty.
Can you clarify "caved through"? Is the damage through the fiberglass into the foam?
While I am sure the guys can walk you through all the various techniques, products etc., fully understanding the damage and seeing a photo or two would help a great deal.
Phil T wrote:
Can you clarify "caved through"? Is the damage through the fiberglass into the foam?
While I am sure the guys can walk you through all the various techniques, products etc., fully understanding the damage and seeing a photo or two would help a great deal.
Yes, caved through into the foam. Somebody suggested they went to a different and better foam core system about this 1983 era, which does better, with less water damage and water intrusion sequealae than a previous core construction.
Will try a picture in f/u. Thanks
Keel Guard idea is appreciated. Glad to hear Wrangler's testimonial about this.
