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Bottom Paint Prep
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| ssmith2288 |
Posted on 05/24/09 - 3:27 AM
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Hi, I've never posted on here but got a ton of info from all you guys. Thanks.
I had to see if anyone has sandblasted their bottom before? I'm looking into renting a powerwasher with a sand pick up to remove the paint. Any thoughts or anyone done this before? How about using it to clean up nonskid? I used to work in a boat yard and we sanded or used peel away but was looking into another option.
Thanks.
Edited by Tom W Clark on 05/24/09 - 8:34 AM |
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| ioptfm |
Posted on 05/24/09 - 5:23 AM
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I've seen where other have done this and as I recall the main caution is the concern of blasing away portions of the Gelcoat and ending up with a pitted surface. Any idea as to how many layers of paint you are looking at? What condition is the bottom in? Are you planning to repaint or leave the bottom unpainted? What model Whaler do you have? POst some pics on your personal page if you can
Edited by ioptfm on 05/24/09 - 5:24 AM
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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| Island Trader |
Posted on 05/24/09 - 5:57 AM
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Most people have there bottoms soda blasted. I had my bottom soda blasted because there was no chemical that would cut through all the paint safely.
When done the bottom is clean and the gel coat is intact. However it is not smooth. Most put a new barrier coat on and then bottom paint again. If you want a smooth bottom be prepared to do a lot of fairing.
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| ssmith2288 |
Posted on 05/24/09 - 7:15 AM
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ioptfmb, The boat is a 1984 18 outrage and could not get pics posted yet. There is about 4 layers of paint and want to apply a barrier coat. I just cant stand the sanding!
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| modenacart |
Posted on 05/28/09 - 10:25 AM
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I am refinishing a 86 console and have found that an orbital sander and 60 grit paper cuts through the paint really, really fast. I would suspect it would leave a good surface for your paint to stick to also.
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| ssmith2288 |
Posted on 05/28/09 - 10:38 AM
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modenacart wrote:
I am refinishing a 86 console and have found that an orbital sander and 60 grit paper cuts through the paint really, really fast. I would suspect it would leave a good surface for your paint to stick to also.
I have been using a 7inch wheel with 50 grit. It works well just have to be carefull of digging to far. I think i will be switching to a 6 inch with 60 grit. I think that will be safer on everything. Its just a long nasty job and i just cant see spending the money to have someone do it for me. I will be putting a barrier coat on also.
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| modenacart |
Posted on 05/28/09 - 11:07 AM
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ssmith2288 wrote:
modenacart wrote:
I am refinishing a 86 console and have found that an orbital sander and 60 grit paper cuts through the paint really, really fast. I would suspect it would leave a good surface for your paint to stick to also.
I have been using a 7inch wheel with 50 grit. It works well just have to be carefull of digging to far. I think i will be switching to a 6 inch with 60 grit. I think that will be safer on everything. Its just a long nasty job and i just cant see spending the money to have someone do it for me. I will be putting a barrier coat on also.
I am using the 5 inch gator disks from lowes. They don't seem to cut the gelcoat very quickly unless I really press down.
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| ssmith2288 |
Posted on 05/28/09 - 11:55 AM
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modenacart wrote:
ssmith2288 wrote:
modenacart wrote:
I am refinishing a 86 console and have found that an orbital sander and 60 grit paper cuts through the paint really, really fast. I would suspect it would leave a good surface for your paint to stick to also.
I have been using a 7inch wheel with 50 grit. It works well just have to be carefull of digging to far. I think i will be switching to a 6 inch with 60 grit. I think that will be safer on everything. Its just a long nasty job and i just cant see spending the money to have someone do it for me. I will be putting a barrier coat on also.
I am using the 5 inch gator disks from lowes. They don't seem to cut the gelcoat very quickly unless I really press down.
I will have to look into that gator disk. How much are they? Do you go through a bunch of them or does it last for awhile? I would hate to take a bunch of trip back and forth to get more if needed.
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| modenacart |
Posted on 05/28/09 - 12:45 PM
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Its going to take maybe six disk to finish the console out of a 86 montauk. I am removing the gelcoat too. If I were just removing the paint that was on it, its not bottom paint, I think it would take only a couple or so. I would buy the large pack of them for 25 dollars. There may be better disk out there.
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| ssmith2288 |
Posted on 05/28/09 - 1:07 PM
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Well thanks i will give it a try.
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| SToomey006 |
Posted on 05/30/09 - 9:26 PM
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Hey guys, I have about 98% of the old bottom paint sanded off my 1975 montauk, MAN was that a nasty endeavor. I got a good deal on a can of interlux antifouling, something or other I think it has a 33 on it. From what I understand it is designed for multiple season use, but I'm going to be trailoring, so I'm hoping it will last me a while. The old paint was thick and chipping off so I have sanded it all off right down to the gel coat with a random orbital, variable speed sander. Using 60-80grit. 60 dug through it no problem but was kinda scary bc it is easy to go too far. the 80 was nicer, digs through it but gets gunked up much quicker than the 60. Anyway, terrible beast of a job and im glad its almost done.
So, Question: Can I just slap the new paint right on there or do I need to put down this barrier coat? THe can was orig $85, got it for $25, boaters world going out of business sale. But so I dont think I could do two coats without needing more paint, which everywhere else is $85, and theyr now completely out of business so.... What is this business with the barrier coat? Would like to just slap it on if I could. Let me know what u guys think.
-Sean
Edited by SToomey006 on 05/30/09 - 9:27 PM |
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| tedious |
Posted on 05/31/09 - 8:21 AM
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Sean, if you've taken it down to the gelcoat, mostly, then you absolutely need a barrier coat, even if you're trailering. Bottom paint isn't really waterproof, and chances are the original gelcoat on your boat was scuffed to get the previous bottom paint to adhere. If you skip the barrier coat, you're very likely to have water getting into the fibreglass of the hull - not what you want. The good news is, you're done with the really tough part, and when you complete the job you'll only have to lightly sand and reapply the antifouling thereafter.
From a quick check of the Interlux website, you probably have Trilux 33 paint. It looks like this is formulated for aluminum boats, outdrives, and outboards, but it also says you can use it on fibreglass. It looks like it has reasonable compatibility with other paints in the future, which is good - chart here: http://www.yachtpaint.com/Images/15_27607.pdf They also have a bottom prep guide here: http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/hotlinks/fiberglass_paintguide.pdf I note they have a "no sand" primer which may appeal, since I bet you're sick of sanding.
Tim
Tim
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| ssmith2288 |
Posted on 05/31/09 - 6:13 PM
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SToomey006! You dont need to have a barrier coat. really only if you sand and seethe fiberglas andif it sit in water for a long time. A barrier coat is also good for some protection. Once you put down the barrier coat you need to lightly sand it for paint to stick, but barrier coat like interluk 2000e is an epoxy so it will be harder than you think to sand. (not as a pain like bottom paint)
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| SToomey006 |
Posted on 05/31/09 - 9:29 PM
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Well so first off, I actually painted it this morning. Secondly, I need to double check, but I know there where 2 cans of interlux b paint at the store, and I rem initially grabbing the 33 one but then changing it for the other one when i read that description on the can. I have to look at the can tomorrow. (in bed now,). I know it was designed for multiple season use.
There were a few dings here and there in the hull, and I dug in a bit in a few spots with the random orbital, but I used that marine tex stuff from west marine, on any and all of these areas, and still have to sand those areas and finish painting.
Thanks for your input guys. If I'm getting any prolonged drips or anything after being in the water I'll be sure to pinpoint and repair them, and maybe next yr do that barrier coat thing. One comment on that, from what I understand according to a weathered older gentleman from west marine who has proven quite knowledgeable, in order to really get that waterproof seal, you have to apply several (4-6) coats, (obviously sanding in between, as it is an epoxy based paint. He advised due to the fact I'm not keeping it in the water, that I just get the cheap west marine stuff or whatever. This conversation took place prior to my finding the interlux paint for less than the west brand. lol.
Anyway, thanks a lot guys, I'm debating over putting like a 1" black boot top on it. I think I'm going to wait till I finish the teak and then take a picture, and photoshop one on it to see how it looks. Any thoughts suggestions?
-Sean
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| SToomey006 |
Posted on 06/01/09 - 5:34 PM
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Its Interlux Micron Extra just for the record. Sorry for the confusion
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