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Replaced sump drain tube, water
modenacart
#1 Print Post
Posted on 04/24/09 - 4:55 PM
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I just replaced the sump drain tube on my 74 montauk. It was really easy, the only hard part was getting the tube through and cutting to length. It was recommended to me to just use a ball pen hammer and it did the trick great. I just had my wife hold a sledge against the sump side of the tube. Anyways, about a cup of water came out with the foam when I got the tube through. Is my boat drafting properly?


modenacart attached the following image:


[29.96Kb]
Edited by modenacart on 04/24/09 - 5:03 PM
 
MW
#2 Print Post
Posted on 04/25/09 - 1:29 AM
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What did you seal it with ? I just did mine and it was "Damp", I used 4200 sealant, then "Marine Tex" on the tip's of the tube, I know the "Marine Tex" will cure "Damp", not sure of the 4200 though.


Matt
 
modenacart
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Posted on 04/25/09 - 6:49 AM
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I just used 5200. I smeared it all over the surface and the tube and hull, then knocked the tube in place. Did the same on the unfared sided, flared with the ball pen hammer and wiped the excess. I assumed it would be compressed between the flared edge and the hull. I wiped the surface dry on the tube and hull. The only wet was in the foam inside.


Edited by modenacart on 04/25/09 - 6:50 AM
 
PCarrico
#4 Print Post
Posted on 04/25/09 - 6:54 AM
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I need to do this to a 17 Montauk.
Where did you get the tube?
Meanwhile, I'll be searching the site.
Thanks,
Pete
Annapolis

 
MW
#5 Print Post
Posted on 04/25/09 - 11:02 AM
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k, you used Brass, I used 1" PVC sched. 40


Matt
 
Derwd24
#6 Print Post
Posted on 04/25/09 - 3:01 PM
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modenacart, Did you use an O ring too or just the 5200?


Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
 
modenacart
#7 Print Post
Posted on 04/25/09 - 4:17 PM
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I used just 5200. I got the tube from Sue at Twin cities Marina. http://www.twincitiesmarine.com/arine.com/

She killed me on shipping though. Twelve dollars for shipping on the brass tube. The tube was 26 dollars. If you have a flaring tool you can get the brass cheaper somewhere else I am sure.

 
Derwd24
#8 Print Post
Posted on 04/25/09 - 4:24 PM
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I think you may want to use O rings to prevent water intrusion.

http://whalercentral.com/forum/viewth...post_41264


Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
 
modenacart
#9 Print Post
Posted on 04/26/09 - 4:59 AM
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There are ship builders out there that don't use o-rings and they don't have problems. I think whaler is one of the few that do use o-rings. The guy I bought my console from buys parts directly from McKee and has spoken to the owner of that company about how they install their tubes and they don't use o-rings and use a ball pen hammer to flare the outboard end of the tube. They have found the hammer is easier to use than the faring tool.

 
Tom W Clark
#10 Print Post
Posted on 04/26/09 - 8:29 AM
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You definitely want to use O-rings with the brass drain tubes as well as a polyurethane caulk. I use 3M 5200 or 5200 FC.

It requires more skill to use the O-rings but you get a more durable seal.

I have used both the flanging tool, my modified power flanging tool and ball peen hammers. All have their places but the air hammer is by far the easiest and fastest in most situations.

I buy the brass tubing and O-rings from McMaster-Carr.

 
modenacart
#11 Print Post
Posted on 04/26/09 - 9:45 AM
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Is there evidence of the o-rings giving a more durable seal? You would think most ship builders would use o-rings if this was the case.

 
LGT9541
#12 Print Post
Posted on 04/26/09 - 11:45 AM
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No mention was made as to weither the brass was annealed before the end was beaten with a ball peen hammar. I'm surprised it did not split. These are after all critical parts of the boat where water intrusion can accure. Once the water gets in and starts to do it's thing the foam gets wet and the wood stars to rot.


DRT
 
MW
#13 Print Post
Posted on 04/26/09 - 11:54 AM
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McKee does not use "O-rings", I was speaking w/ a "McKee" owner yesterday, I was surprised too when he said that they don't use "O-rings".


Matt
 
modenacart
#14 Print Post
Posted on 04/26/09 - 12:41 PM
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If the tube is cut to the proper length it should not split.

 
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