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1981 V-20 DUAL steering
rollingrightalong	#1  Posted on 04/13/09 - 2:32 PM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/09	I've recently acquired a 1981 V-20 that has been out of the water for at least two years. Does anyone have a diagram (with cutaways hopefully) that shows the set up for dual steering (for the dual 1981 90HP mercs). The cables between the wheel and the stern move evenly and freely but one of the solid? rods through the engine mount is not moving.
Phil T	#2  Posted on 04/13/09 - 4:11 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Your steering rod is frozen in the tube. See this FAQ article 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
whalerman	#3  Posted on 04/14/09 - 1:52 PM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	Any luck geting the steering rod to move, at all??? PB Blaster works wonders!! just becarefull not to get it everywhere. Good luck with the project!!! THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
Joe Kriz	#4  Posted on 04/14/09 - 1:59 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	I don't quite understand the problem. How can everything move freely if the solid rod won't move in the tilt tube? That solid rod is part of the steering cable. Here is a photo of the steering cable with the solid rod that goes into the tilt tube on the engine. http://www.teleflexmarine.com/library...-tqc-3.jpg With a dual system, you have 2 of these cables going to the same engine.
whalerman	#5  Posted on 04/14/09 - 2:19 PM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	maybe he meant that one cable is moving and the other is not. Need more info and pictures if possible. Went out to look at mine eventhough it is single engine to try and picture his setup. THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
rollingrightalong	#6  Posted on 04/14/09 - 8:46 PM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/09	Thank you all for your replies, I really appreciate the help as I am a "Whaler" beginner. I followed Phil T's 'FAQ' suggestion of raising the motor, using a penetrating oil and lastly heat and unfortuneately the rod is still not moving. Even with lots of WD-40 before and after applying heat (but not too hot and only at the tube ends) . To try to explain further. The two cables from the console steering wheel arrive on the starboard side front of the starboard motor into dual tube slides. With both steering cables fully separated and disconnected from the linkages that connect the two outboards any movement of the steering wheel, either to the left or right only shows movement in the forward of the two cables. By loosening the starboard end cover nut on the rear of the two sliders the cable can be pulled out about 10 inches quite freely, and with this nut undone easy and free movement of the steering wheel, left and right, is possible [I noted (1) that the cables move in opposite directions when the steering wheel is turned and (2) that the rear cable when moved freely ouwards from the tube towards the port side still leaves the port half othe cable still stuck, with absolutely no movement, as though this rod separates inside the tube]. With the tube nut replaced the movement is again restricted as before. I can put considerable pressure on the end of the jammed cable using a piece of 1/2" threaded rod and two nuts. By placing the rod into the empty port side sliding tube, using one nut to center the end of the stuck rod and the other against the end of the empty tube (using fender washers to protect the end) I used a long wrench to turn the other nut and was able to put considerable pressure on the stuck rod end. I had this pressure on when I heated the other (starboard) tube. Any further advice would be greatly appreciated.
Finnegan	#7  Posted on 04/14/09 - 9:16 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	It sounds like you have a broken cable. I suppose the cheapest way to correct your problem would be buy a new cable, and reinstall it into the engine's tilt tube, after cleaning it. But I would not do that. I also have a Whaler with twin Merc in-line 6 engines, and it came with this same dual cable steering. I hated it, and it had torque pull like crazy. After three years it froze up and I trashed it for side mount hydraulic. See this article. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refe...acket.html There are two things I would recommend for your rig: If you want to stay with mechanical steering, replace steering head with a single NFB 4.2 helm, and a new cable. This newer technology will handle the twin 90's. At the same time, I would put a replacement tilt tube in the engine, and install a "Steersman" grease fitting nut on the output end. This should eliminate all future greasing and freeze up problems. Then all you need is a simple tie bar to the other engine. The boat will steer much easier, and prop torque will be eliminated. For the absolute best steering system, no steering pull at all, install Teleflex hydraulic with side mount cylinder as the article details. A new tilt tube should be installed for this option also. For any twin engine installation, hydraulic steering is almost a "must" these days. I think trying to fix the mess you have now is a waste of time. For great pricing on Teleflex steering, go to surplusunlimited.com Edited by Finnegan on 04/14/09 - 9:17 PM
Phil T	#8  Posted on 04/14/09 - 9:31 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	rollingrightalong wrote: I followed Phil T's 'FAQ' suggestion of... Even with lots of WD-40 before and after applying heat (but not too hot and only at the tube ends) . When my rod froze, applying medium heat to the entire tube while someone else drove the rod from the port side with force to dislodged it. I would take Finnigan's advice for the future to heart. 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
whalerman	#9  Posted on 04/15/09 - 7:06 AM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	When you pull out the old cables, pull out one at a time. Wrap the ends in plastic, to keep the black grease from getting everywhere. On one of the cables tie a length of small cordage to it , acts like a fishtape to pull in the new system, cable or hydraulic lines. Reason for pulling one cable at a time is that the rigging wires maybe tangled arround the old steering cables. Keep us apprised of your progress and ANY questions that arrise. Keep soaking the cable/tilt tube while working on something else on the boat. THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
Tom W Clark	#10  Posted on 04/15/09 - 7:22 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	Heat needs to be applied to the whole tilt tube not just the ends. It may take quite a bit if heat. Hydraulic steering is great but presents its own headaches and expenses. There is nothing wrong with the twin cable steering and if adjusted correctly will be light and fast and not produce excessive torque. The tile tubes must be well greased to keep the steering cables free.
whalerman	#11  Posted on 04/16/09 - 5:09 PM
Member Posts: 540 Comments: 5 Joined: 06/26/07	Any luck with the steering cables?? THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
rollingrightalong	#12  Posted on 05/27/09 - 10:15 PM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/09	To close out this thread, and to say thank you for all the help I received, I thought that I should say what I finally did to remedy the problem. I removed the engine mount tube (that's the one threaded at both ends) with the steering rod still stuck inside (all the heat from torches and pressure from a threaded bar, with help from a 4 lb. hammer didn't budge the steering rod rusted in place inside the mount tube. As I withdrew the mount tube I inserted a same diameter tube (could have been a replacement mount tube but wasn't) and with the tube out (and with the steering rod still in place I was able to really heat up the mount tube and break the rust. I reamed out the mount tube and was able to repaint it and replace it back onto the boat. I couldn't save the steering rod which was replaced along with the cable. Having the mount and cable away from the fibreglass of the boat gave me a lot more flexibility for using high heat. I was also able to back the boat up to a bench vice to help the work. Anyway, all's well that ends well, and thank you again for all your advice.