'61 13ft. jackplate question
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jsb91010 |
Posted on 01/15/09 - 4:58 PM
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Thanks CES, i got the email...ya know....after i put the block of wood under the clamp...it appears my cav. plate is just about where yours is...I can't clamp the engine any lower that's how thick the wood is keeping it up...I think that's a good spot...do you think it's safe to run like that? If i clamp the s&%^ outta the screws? like i said i just want to run it to see if i gain any top end speed since I know it's going to go a coupe inches shallower now since it's higher, that's a given. If i do, i will try and get a custom bracket made for my height.
Edited by jsb91010 on 01/15/09 - 4:59 PM |
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CES |
Posted on 01/15/09 - 5:25 PM
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That thick block of wood is what I was telling you earlier that you don't need as you'd have to work it until you get it right. In reality, I don't think you need it if your motor os bolted on correctly and bolted through the transom. You should probably take that block of wood out and lower your engine about 1/2 inch so your clamps get a good bite on your transom. As you can see from the photos I sent to you, I don't have a block of wood on mine and I ran it an entire season with no problems at all.
CES attached the following image:
[34.02Kb]
Edited by CES on 01/16/09 - 7:31 AM
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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jsb91010 |
Posted on 01/15/09 - 5:57 PM
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hmmmmmmm....decisions...decisions... If i keep it up like it is I can't bolt thru the "transom" because the engine bolt mounts are high up and would actually mount right thru the aluminum not the transom. The reason I want to keep the wood there tommorow for testing is becasue then it has something to sit on and seems to me would relieve some pressure? Im very picky/meticulous person...and something so little as maybe gaining 1 or 2mph, couple inches etc. is buggin the heck outta me!!!! My next question...would it be safe to just remove the block...move it down half inch of so and just clamp it on, NO bolts for testing? Or its better for testing how it is now? I CAN take the wood off and cut .5" off if neccessary then put wood back on, and make sure the clamps hold good...just would rather not
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jsb91010 |
Posted on 01/15/09 - 7:01 PM
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i just cut a piece .5" shorter stuck it under there instead...now the clamps are 100% on aluminum...atleast ill rest easy tommorow
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CES |
Posted on 01/16/09 - 7:19 AM
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Great! You certainly want the clamps to have a good bite on your transom.....that's important. Did you use a florr jack this time to lift your motor?
Edited by CES on 01/16/09 - 7:20 AM
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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jsb91010 |
Posted on 01/16/09 - 7:51 AM
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gosh CES...you act like im dumb or something ....of couuuurse i used a floor jack...didn't even strain 1 muscle!!!! Thanks for the bright idea ...I am going to head to the lake in a minute to do a little fishin and some test runs...hopefully it's not too windy i can see what my top end speed is! come on 30mph!!!!
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jsb91010 |
Posted on 01/18/09 - 1:31 PM
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actually got her goin 30.2mph on gps...Does cavatating sound like the prop comes out of the water or something, like a sudden rev sound? I only heard it do that once or twice, but it used to do that before I raised engine too when the water was rough and I would be going fast..which I was doing yesterday too. When on plane when the wind died down at sunset she was flyin' no rev sound. I think this is where Im going to keep the engine. THanks guys for your help!
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CES |
Posted on 01/18/09 - 4:36 PM
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You may want to lower your trim one notch to reduce the possibility of cavitation.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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Binkie |
Posted on 01/19/09 - 3:07 AM
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jsb, your motor looks to be about the right height now, but their is not enough clamping surface to keep your motor on the transom. DON`T RUN YOUR MOTOR THIS WAY. I suggested a 3/4" thick board, and you used a 1 1/2" thick one. Why don`t you remove the motor AND the aluminum bracket, and then put the 1 1/2" board under the bracket and reinstall it.
Rich |
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CES |
Posted on 01/19/09 - 5:27 AM
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jsb91010 wrote:
i just cut a piece .5" shorter stuck it under there instead...now the clamps are 100% on aluminum...atleast ill rest easy tommorow
Binkie, he did do that....read above.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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jsb91010 |
Posted on 01/21/09 - 7:21 AM
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yeah, the clamps are all the way on the aluminum now...the board is about 1" thick. I can't remove that aluminum bracket or my engine will sit 5" deep!!
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CES |
Posted on 01/21/09 - 11:50 AM
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jsb, did you lower your tilt a little to help with the cavitation? How is she performing now that the motor is raised?
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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jsb91010 |
Posted on 01/21/09 - 1:59 PM
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no...I didn't lower the tilt at all...Don't you want the engine to be straight up and down when on plane? That's how the tilt is setup at the moment. Now that you remind me...ill have to lower it down one little hole and run it on friday see what she runs like. I did notice a couple different sounds though one sounds like the engine is reving/get louder which i think is cavitation...then I noticed the other day it almost sounded like it was dying while on plane. not really sure what's going on now.
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