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'61 13ft. jackplate question
jsb91010	#1  Posted on 01/12/09 - 4:41 PM
Member Posts: 128 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/01/08	I have a long shaft motor on it, but I have a aluminum bracket which brings the engine up 5" like it should...but...the engine is still sitting like 1.5-2ft in the water. I fish the shallow bays often and I hit bottom a couple times this weekend. How high can I safely put the motor? I was thinking of building me a fixed "jackplate" out of C channel aluminum. here is a pic of setup. The red line is approximate waterline when boat is sitting in the water. http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q1...CN0177.jpg http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q1...CN0179.jpg http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q1...CN0173.jpg Edited by jsb91010 on 01/12/09 - 4:42 PM
charkbait	#2  Posted on 01/12/09 - 5:06 PM
Member Posts: 82 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/01/08	can't help on the height but how's the durabak holding up? After seeing yours I did mine yesterday... [img]http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo298/charkbait/Whaler%20Rehab/DSCN0341.jpg?t=1231808705[/img] can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong on imbedding pics? http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo...1231808705
ioptfm	#3  Posted on 01/12/09 - 5:12 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1533 Comments: 3 Joined: 10/28/06	Looks like you are entering a link and not a photo...........try hitting reply and you should see a place to embed an image Tom 1979 Sport 15'
jsb91010	#4  Posted on 01/12/09 - 5:24 PM
Member Posts: 128 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/01/08	the durabak still looks the same as it did before...only thing is it's dirty now from fish/shoe grime....Granted only been on about 10 fishing trips so far it's holding up well... no complaints so far... Bt the way yours loooks sweet man!!! good job! Edited by jsb91010 on 01/12/09 - 5:24 PM
CES	#5  Posted on 01/12/09 - 6:20 PM
Member Personal Page Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 2681 Comments: 7 Joined: 04/27/07	jsb. By the looks of where your cavitation plates sits in relation to the bottom of your stern, you could probably get away with raising your motor up an inch or possibly a little more. Ideally, while on a plane, you want to be able to see your cavitation plate when looking at from above it. There are several threads regarding this topic on this website. Here's the link to a previous discussion about this topic. http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...post_32761 Edited by CES on 01/12/09 - 6:30 PM Cliff 1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
jsb91010	#6  Posted on 01/12/09 - 6:45 PM
Member Posts: 128 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/01/08	hmmmm I didn't really see anything...when running on plane the doel fin is just barely in the water/ running right on top, no porposing...my problem is when going farely slow because I am unsure of the water depth the motor is then really low in the water. If i was to put a homeade jackplate on there to raise the motor say 2-3" when drifting, would that make the cavitation plate come up that much too when on plane?
bigdaddywhaler	#7  Posted on 01/12/09 - 8:56 PM
Member Posts: 11 Comments: 1 Joined: 12/13/08	I did the same thing to my Nauset. I installed a 25 inch shaft motor when a 20 inch shaft is needed. I ordered a pair of jack plates and installed them on the transom. I then mounted the motor. I followed detailed instructions from another whaler forum. Continuouswave.com. He did exactly what you did on a 13 footer. Do it right and you should have no problems
CES	#8  Posted on 01/13/09 - 4:59 AM
Member Personal Page Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 2681 Comments: 7 Joined: 04/27/07	Get a depth finder and a chart of the lake or waterway you're in so you know the depth. If you're seeing your doel fin and your cavitation plate while you're on a plane, then your motor is in the proper location. Cliff 1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
jsb91010	#9  Posted on 01/13/09 - 10:55 AM
Member Posts: 128 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/01/08	I have a depth finder...and a chart of the flats i like to fish...but...that doesn't really help me get INTO the shallows, just tells me they are there... So basically it sounds like I can't get the motor any higher...So technically if I raise the engine 4" say...its going to be 4" higher when drifting...does that mean that when on plane my engine will be 4" higher than it currently is???
CES	#10  Posted on 01/14/09 - 9:21 AM
Member Personal Page Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 2681 Comments: 7 Joined: 04/27/07	If you raised your engine on the transom four inches, if you try to get on a plane your boat will cavitate terribly.......and won't plane at all. The best thing to do is trim your motor up when in shallow water while fishing. If not, then put it all the way up, with prop out of the water, and move your boat around with oars......or a trolling motor. CES attached the following image: [26.89Kb] Edited by CES on 01/16/09 - 7:28 AM Cliff 1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
charkbait	#11  Posted on 01/14/09 - 10:34 AM
Member Posts: 82 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/01/08	agree, pole or trolling motor...like everyone else. You should be able to pole that 13 pretty well.
jsb91010	#12  Posted on 01/14/09 - 4:52 PM
Member Posts: 128 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/01/08	i went fishing today...the cavitation plate is actually underwater...the plate that is right at the water is the one above the cav. plate...Binkie told me put a piece of wood under my clamp so Im going to see what i can do...While on plane going 28mph today the water level was at the green line in this pic: thanks guys http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q1...CN0177.jpg
ronecker2	#13  Posted on 01/14/09 - 5:03 PM
Member Posts: 2 Comments: 0 Joined: 04/19/06	I installed a cmc tilt/trim on my 13 than installed the outboard it and now I can raise it at the helm while going slow speeds in shallow water trying to find some fish. IT solved my problem and may help with yours. I found it better than a jack plate because I now have full tilt/trim functions instead of just being able to raise and lower engine. I got my cmc 50 on ebay and it wasn't much compared to the performance.
CES	#14  Posted on 01/15/09 - 11:34 AM
Member Personal Page Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 2681 Comments: 7 Joined: 04/27/07	jsb. Wow, your motor does sit pretty low. I bet if you were to raise your motor 2-3 holes on your transom, which would help a lot with your top end speed and shallow water issues. I raised my motor up two holes and did not use a piece of wood block. You can if you want to use the wood idea but it would seem like you'd have to do a lot of trimming the wood block when all you really need to do is raise the motor and bolt it into the transom. Once you raise your motor, you'll see a big difference in the handling characteristics of your boat. Cliff 1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
jsb91010	#15  Posted on 01/15/09 - 12:48 PM
Member Posts: 128 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/01/08	CES...is what your telling me to do involve drilling new holes in the transom? I'd prefer not to, would just have to weigh my options how bad I wanted it raised I guess...I can't really "raise" the engine besides a block between the aluminum bracket and motor clamp...i don't think. What I don't understand is how in the world it can sit so low...my shaft length is 20" and I have the bracket to raise the short shaft transom to 20"...just didn't make sense to me...I was sitting in 1.5ft of water yesterady and the motor was stuck in bottom...just seems I should be able to get skinnier than that!!!! Im going to go outside and see what my options are... Edited by jsb91010 on 01/15/09 - 12:50 PM
CES	#16  Posted on 01/15/09 - 1:16 PM
Member Personal Page Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 2681 Comments: 7 Joined: 04/27/07	If your motor is sitting as low as it appears in your picture, you'll have to raise it about two inches. When I get home from work this afternoon, I will take a few pictures of my set up so you can see where your cavitation plate should sit in relation to the bottom of your boat. Also, I will take a picture of how high the motor mount sits above my transom, just to give you an idea of what it might look like when you raise the motor. Raising the motor is relatively simple with our smaller motors. I used a car joack under the skeg and slowly raised it up until the bolts through my transom fit into the mount. Took me all of 15 minutes to do the whole thing. If you have to drill new holes in your transom, I don't think it's a big deal because you can fill the holes temporaritly with some 5200 which will keep the holes sealed until you're ready to fill them with some epoxy. Cliff 1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
Binkie	#17  Posted on 01/15/09 - 1:42 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 2012 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/19/05	Looking at the picture of his motor sitting on the transom, he already has an aluminum bracket that raises his long shaft motor 5 inches, on the short shaft transom. This is a clamp on motor with no holes in the bracket to bolt the motor to the transom. At least I don`t see any. Appears to be a mid `70`s motor. That's why i suggested a 3/4" block thats about as high as you are going to get it. Looking at the relationship between the cavitation plate and the bottom, it looks OK to me, unless your trying to squeeze the last bit of performance out of it, and I don1t think that`s what he`s looking for. Why not just buy a rear mounted electric trolling motor for when you are in very shallow water. You cn tilt your outboard up, and adjust the depth of the trolling motor and it will push your boat right along in knee deep water. or less. rich Rich
jsb91010	#18  Posted on 01/15/09 - 1:43 PM
Member Posts: 128 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/01/08	wow ces...you must have more brain that me because I just got thru manually lifting my motor off the transom and putting the board under it LOL...ahhhhh things you can do when your young ...Here is a pic after I put the board under it...now my cav. plate is actually even with or slightly above the keel...It looks good but im not too sure if it's safe enough to give it a test drive becasue where the clamps screws it's at the very very tip of my aluminum bracket. My plan was to test this see if it worked, and if so...have made an exact bracket like I have except make it 2" taller, or whatever I figure out is the best height...that way it will look alot cleaner than a 2x4 under there ..i still want you to take pictures of your rig if you don't mind!!!! i'd like to compare http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q1...CN0183.jpg http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q1...CN0182.jpg http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q1...CN0181.jpg
charkbait	#19  Posted on 01/15/09 - 2:35 PM
Member Posts: 82 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/01/08	unfortunately the more motor you get out of the water the lower your hull will float but will dig in less. My 17 has a heavy engine, water in the hull and will run will drag the skeg in 2+' but on plane runs 9"-12" higher. During low speed movement you need weight up front IMO, I'm putting in a 26 gallon in front of the CC to help with this.
CES	#20  Posted on 01/15/09 - 4:12 PM
Member Personal Page Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 2681 Comments: 7 Joined: 04/27/07	JSB, I just sent you a bunch of pictures to your email address....the hotmail address. I didn't want to link them to photobucket to keep Joe happy and I couldn't figure out how to embed them into this post. I am a purpetual student and ready to learn new tricks. Anyway, I hope the photos help with your project. CES attached the following image: [24.35Kb] Edited by CES on 01/16/09 - 7:26 AM Cliff 1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker