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Battery wiring
AJR	#1  Posted on 07/23/08 - 1:17 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 26 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/12/07	Im refurbing a '73 Montauk --- I am installing 2 batteries under the center console and will run wiring back to the engine. Two questions, first is #2 wire heavy enough and secondly, I am going to install a fuse at the battery selecter switch. What size fuse do you suggest since it has to be large enough for the starter. Obviously I'll use a smaller fuse up to the electrical distribution buss I installed to run all the normal stuff. Another thought -- running the gas line and battery cables thru the tunnel seems scary- has anyone ever run the gas line in a piece of PVC just for added abrasion protection? THANX AJR
Jeff	#2  Posted on 07/23/08 - 1:24 PM
Member Posts: 1987 Comments: 34 Joined: 04/02/05	AJR, I used #4 wires to go from the console to the motor on my Newport. I did not put a breaker into the lines going to the motor but I put a 50amp Blue Seas inline breaker in the line that goes to the bus bars that supply the rest of the boat. 1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
Phil T	#3  Posted on 07/24/08 - 2:15 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	To answer your question on running a fuel line and electrical wires in the tunnel, the added shielding is not, in my opinion, necessary. The electrical wire is insulated and should be one continuous piece with no splices. With proper sizing and fuses, the wire will not overheat and melt. Maybe a member with electrical engineering experience can explain the technical aspects to back up my opinion. Once the electrical wire and fuel hose are installed, there is little if any movement in the tunnel. 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
Jeff	#4  Posted on 07/24/08 - 6:28 PM
Member Posts: 1987 Comments: 34 Joined: 04/02/05	Also, this is why you NEED to use Marine Grade OIL / FUEL resistant wiring so that if there is a leak the fuel will not eat away at the insulation. 1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
Mr T	#5  Posted on 07/26/08 - 6:53 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 230 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/07/08	2 or 4 gauge shoud be fine; make sure to use a good crimper for the connections, heat shrink the ends, vaseline as well. For the most part, the bigger the gauge the cooler it runs; for the length you have to run, you should be good to go. I think it's only about 10 foot total length or so.
Davidk	#6  Posted on 07/27/08 - 7:59 AM
Member Posts: 196 Comments: 1 Joined: 12/05/07	I have some experience with electrical things (20+ years in low voltage wiring). I would feel comfortable with gas line and electric in the same tunnel. This assumes the proper use of type/insulated wire/fuel hose. Also, do not put any splices in either line.
Grady95	#7  Posted on 07/27/08 - 8:13 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 198 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/03/07	My project, a '77 Montauk also had the battery set into the console. I ran #4 Lincoln Welding Co. insulated copper wire purchased from Tractor Supply Co. There is a special tape, the name escapes me, that they use in the NAVY to seal connections watertight. It can be purchased in home centers etc. It's like electricians black tape, but thicker, more elastic and malleable. They use this over their wet connections. I used it. No problems to report so far. Good Luck, Grady
Phil T	#8  Posted on 07/27/08 - 8:32 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	I think Grady is referring to heat shrink Looks like this: [img]http://a1672.g.akamai.net/7/1672/116/20080701/www.ritzcamera.com/graphics/products/1-62/199322462.jpg[/img] 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
Derwd24	#9  Posted on 07/27/08 - 9:06 PM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	I ran new fuel line in my tunnel with the wiring last summer and used the A1 USCG rated line. It's thicker and has better fire rating as well as allows less vapor to pass through the hose itself. It's very cheap insurance to run the A1 fuel line in the tunnel... Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
jrfreed	#10  Posted on 07/28/08 - 6:28 PM
Member Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/23/08	The tape Grady is referring to is a rubberized tape that self adherese to itself. Sorry I can't remeber the the name either. when it comes to me I will post it. However, heat shrink will give you a cleaner look. You will want to get the heat shrink that has an adheisive in it for better water proofing. If you can't find it you can cover the area with rtv, slide your heat shrink over and shrink it.
Grady95	#11  Posted on 07/29/08 - 5:05 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 198 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/03/07	Now I'll have to find the name of the stuff. It is a black, thick, rubbery elastic material, looks like electricians tape on steroids. It actually has a film of separator rolled right up with it that you have to peel off as you play it out off the roll. A lot of work for a minor detail here though. There are many good suggestions here and any of them will likely be adequate. Mine is but one. I had to create a splice inside the tube because the motor wiring just happened to be that long and I did not want to cut it unnecessarily. That wire is expensive! Grady
jrfreed	#12  Posted on 07/29/08 - 3:32 PM
Member Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/23/08	The name of the tape is Sealing Tape. It is a 3M product. http://www.newark.com/sealing-tape
Davidk	#13  Posted on 07/29/08 - 5:12 PM
Member Posts: 196 Comments: 1 Joined: 12/05/07	Guys...did I miss something? How did we get on this tape? I had to go back to the original post to check, but I think he's looking for help on a different issue.
MW	#14  Posted on 07/30/08 - 2:00 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	"Chafe Guard's" can simply be added by using "split hose" and a few "Cable ties", I agree, running electric lines next to fuel lines would make me a bit nervous too. mw
SC Joe	#15  Posted on 07/30/08 - 5:32 PM
Member Posts: 19 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/01/08	As long as the electrical cables are of sufficient quality and appropriate size (there are wiring size calculators available at the West Marine advisor that take into acct your assumed load in amps and the length you are running), you have fuses and placed circuit breakers in the apropriate areas, AND the fuel hose is marine certified and is not compromised by age, physical issues, etc...there is no reason why you couldn't run the cables together if you would like. Edited by SC Joe on 07/30/08 - 8:45 PM