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2005 170 Bow Rail Removal
FASTFJR	#1  Posted on 07/02/08 - 9:01 AM
Member Posts: 202 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/02/07	I plan to remove the bow rail rail from my 2005 170. I'm doing this mainly because it gets in the way during fly fishing. My plan is this.... Remove rail, clean surface under feet, re-insert screws, paint top of screws to match deck. Another option is to have new feet made, 2.5 die with 3 holes, either from plastic or metal (chromed) I just want to get an ideas of what someone else has done. Thanks Edited by FASTFJR on 07/02/08 - 9:01 AM 2007 Dauntless 180-2007 Mercury Verado 150
FASTFJR	#2  Posted on 07/02/08 - 5:32 PM
Member Posts: 202 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/02/07	anyone? 2007 Dauntless 180-2007 Mercury Verado 150
Royboy	#3  Posted on 07/02/08 - 6:43 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 127 Comments: 2 Joined: 04/23/07	I just removed the railing form my 17 Outrage because it was damaged in a storm (a tree fell on it). The tree did much of the removal, but the rest I just unscrewed and removed. I was able to reinstall the screws in most of the holes, but the areas where the stancions were are not pretty. There's a big gob of sealant under each one, and a fair amount of dirt. On your newer boat, this may not be the case, however. If you're keeping the rail to reinstall when you sell the boat, just install the screws with or without the paint. As a side note, if I end up able to keep my Outrage, I probably wont put the bow rail back on. It's always in the way when trying to fish up there.
FASTFJR	#4  Posted on 07/03/08 - 4:50 AM
Member Posts: 202 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/02/07	Thanks 2007 Dauntless 180-2007 Mercury Verado 150
ioptfm	#5  Posted on 07/03/08 - 6:03 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1533 Comments: 3 Joined: 10/28/06	If you remove it and then put screws in the holes instead of filling with fiberglass, then you can very easily reinstall the rail in the event you change your mind or want to sell the boat Tom 1979 Sport 15'
FASTFJR	#6  Posted on 07/03/08 - 9:20 AM
Member Posts: 202 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/02/07	ioptfm wrote: If you remove it and then put screws in the holes instead of filling with fiberglass, then you can very easily reinstall the rail in the event you change your mind or want to sell the boat Thats what I plan to do. I'm going to have blank chromed feet made for about 50 bucks. That way the rail can be easily put back on Thanks 2007 Dauntless 180-2007 Mercury Verado 150
Derwd24	#7  Posted on 07/03/08 - 10:41 AM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	Good call, that's the way I'd go... I'd consider getting the blanks milled out of 1/8" stainless, then you don't have to worry about getting them chromed, and they'll look fine (same material as the stainless screw heads that'll hold them on) as well as stand up to the weather.... Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
FASTFJR	#8  Posted on 07/03/08 - 11:03 AM
Member Posts: 202 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/02/07	Derwd24 wrote: Good call, that's the way I'd go... I'd consider getting the blanks milled out of 1/8" stainless, then you don't have to worry about getting them chromed, and they'll look fine (same material as the stainless screw heads that'll hold them on) as well as stand up to the weather.... Thats better yet 2007 Dauntless 180-2007 Mercury Verado 150
Blue_Northern	#9  Posted on 07/03/08 - 1:02 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 532 Comments: 5 Joined: 09/04/07	Better yet go buy a sheet of white marine lumber plastic. You can buy a 1/2" thick 12" x 12" piece of white from Interstate Plastics for around $13. It can easily be cut, routed and drilled with traditional wood tools. They will come out light weight, cheap, never rot, fade, etc.... I do not know handy you are in the shop but these would be easy to trace the foot print and mill in less than 1 afternoon. By the way I do not have any affiliation with the plastic company I referred. I found them on the net and they look easy to buy from and affordable. PS - put a dab of 3M 4200 sealant behind each and you will have a solid water tight seal. Edited by Blue_Northern on 07/03/08 - 1:06 PM Rob 1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion
FASTFJR	#10  Posted on 07/03/08 - 3:22 PM
Member Posts: 202 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/02/07	I thought about using Starboard but the thinest I could find in 1/2 inch which is pretty thick. I'm really looking for 1/8 inch 2007 Dauntless 180-2007 Mercury Verado 150
Barryg	#11  Posted on 07/03/08 - 6:48 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 242 Comments: 1 Joined: 04/01/08	I removed the rails off of my 73 for the same reason. It seems the fly line will get caught on anything. I had some success with a strip bucket or basket.BG
Bob Kemmler JR	#12  Posted on 07/04/08 - 11:48 AM
Member Project Albums Posts: 269 Comments: 7 Joined: 10/10/05	Isn't it easier to just use a spinning reel? On the hunt for a classic 19 or 21 Whaler
FASTFJR	#13  Posted on 07/04/08 - 3:57 PM
Member Posts: 202 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/02/07	Most bow rails are just down right ugly 2007 Dauntless 180-2007 Mercury Verado 150
Mspbadger	#14  Posted on 05/15/20 - 7:51 AM
Member Posts: 4 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/17/19	How did this work out @FASTFJR? I'm considering doing the same.
gchuba	#15  Posted on 05/15/20 - 8:08 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	You are looking at a 12 year old thread. I read it and I believe the "re-installing the screws and saving of the holes with small plating over the area" a reasonable way to go. However.......1/8" starboard (if it exists) or any starboard should not be used if it is sealing required. Starboard rejects sealants without a lot of prep work (some sort of heating process).
Phil T	#16  Posted on 05/15/20 - 10:19 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	If you click on his username, and view his profile, it will show the last time he logged on was 2012. 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT