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I recently purchased a 2008 Montauk 190. It has some moderate rub rail damage I am going to repair.
I’m in the process of weighing the new to me boat minus the trailer to understand how much moisture I could possibly have if any.
Boat plus trailer was 4040lbs at transfer station scale ( if that was accurate) with no gear other than 2 batt, about 1/2 fuel, 115F mercury.
I will soon weigh trailer with and without the boat on it so I can see the delta for just the boat (1900#), eng(440), bat(120#), fuel ( 6.1#\gal) and remove most inaccuracies of the scale.
My top end speed seems to be lacking by about 10 mph, in similar conditions to the performance test data other thank painted bottom.
Boat sits at the previously painted bottom paint line. I don’t seem to find another 190 around to compare that to, as many have taken out for the season due to Hurricane that was predicted.
Q1. Am I right that if I remove any of the plastic through hull fittings or screws I will have access to the foam between the hull fiberglass and the gunnel or deck?
Q2. Would trapped water come flooding out, or just slowly seep?
Q3. When re attaching the new rub rail; if I use new holes that are off center to the existing ones, what material is on the inside of the hull glass beneath the top of the gunnel? Is that area solid fiberglass or is there wood?
Q4. How much speed loss on a bare vs painted hull with maybe two coats?
Specifically in my case I am thinking about replacing the centerline bilge drain and live well through hull fittings. If the water came in via the rub rail screw holes that got reamed out or the small crack at the seam between side of hull and top of gunnel about 6 inches in one area where run rail is also damaged, will it drain out down at the bilge drain at centerline if I take out the pvc through hull/live well intake, or does it get entrained in the foam close to the point of entry?
I know this topic is widely discussed, but have not been able to find the info regarding similar to what I am asking. If it exists somewhere on here please redirect me to that post.
The reported WOT speed by 2007-15 owners is 39 mph running solo and 37 mph with a passenger.
The factory performance report for the 2018 Montauk 190 with a Mercury 115hp CT engine reported 41 mph. Note:The factory performance is done under ideal conditions. No wind, current, gear, passengers, light fuel load.
What is your top speed, load, conditions?
Verify the engine is mounted 2 holes up, top bolt in the 3rd hole down from the top AND the prop is a 13.25x 15 Mercury Vengence. Are you trimming the engine way out?
A 5: Bottom paint can cost you up to 5 mph.
As a matter of practice I recommend replacing all the thru hulls (use OEM parts) when purchasing a used Boston Whaler. Just a good precaution.
A 1 - Yes
A 2 - If there is moisture it may drip out but then stop. That is fine. Let it dry then replace.
A 3 - There is fiberglass on the top of the sides. Fill the existing holes with a marine epoxy like Locktite Marine Epoxy and drill new holes 1" away from existing through the rubrail insert and hull.
As for the weights - I would be more interested in the static water line on the transom and its relation to the spashwell drains? At or below the drain tubes is good.
Also - The published boat weight is an approximate. This boat is hand made so there is a variance. I would not spend time with scales.
115 HP is the minimum HP recommended for the 190 Montauk. Don't expect sparking performance from that engine - power combination. Our previously owned 190 Montauk was powered by a 135 HP supercharged Verado engine. I would describe the performance as excellent. Our engine was at the original factory height and had the original propeller. IIRC the top speed was mid forties depending upon sea state and load. The boat was not equipped with a bow rail, a savings of several pounds forward. The acceleration was exceptional. We sold the boat due to my advancing age.
