Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
Brand new to this site, brand new to Boating. Forgive me if some one has posted this already. I recently bought a Dauntless DC and need to make some updates. Does anyone know what the correct length for the steering cable is for a Dauntless DC 17' 1995? Thanks in advance for any help!
I tried to find the stamped numbers but I think I have to use a mirror as I cannot see the far side of the cable from under the helm. The Steering is not stiff, it has a lot of play actually. While I was under the helm looking for the length numbers I notice that the helm is leaking grease and one of the screws was very loose. tightened the screw but made no difference in steering. I am willing to bet the issue is the helm not the cable.
Let me know if you think these next steps make sense or if I am missing anything:
1. Disconnect cable that passes through the tilt tube of the engine and grease this properly
2. disconnect cable at helm and check condition. if not stripped, leave it. Add grease if needed.
3. replace helm - use existing cable
4. test it and determine if its fixed or it provides clues to the next steps.
Place your hand at 12'oclock on the wheel. Look back at the engine and turn the wheel. Identify how much you need the turn the wheel before the engine starts to move. If it does not start before 1 oclock, it is the helm.
Is the helm loose? Can you shake the wheel itself?
Is the tie bar from the cable end to the engine tight?
I will try doing that at the Marina tomorrow, but from memory Yes it does NOT start moving by 1 o'clock. I can shake the wheel. it has some damage and is cracked. it is a vinyl covered wheel, auto style rather than boat style. It also has a tilt mechanism. I have to replace the wheel itself and the tilt feature is not important to me so I think a new helm and stainless wheel (simple, not tilt) should have me off to a good start. I will check the tie bar tomorrow at the Marina as well, but from memory everything seems good back there. My bet is the helm. It has to take a bit of force to crack a wheel and that probably went right through to the helm and sent that down hill.
There is a lot of play in the wheel and from the 12 o'clock position to 1 o'clock the engine does not move, just loose wheel. Pin in the middle of the helm that spins with the wheel has a ton of play. Helm leaking grease. helm is pretty solid in its mount and does not move, but it seams like all of its parts do. I'll start with replacing the helm with a no feedback model and change out the wheel at that time as well.
As far as the steering cable goes I took a mirror so I could see all sides and there are no markings on either end. I have looked at the formulas for measuring and Have the measurements, but I cannot imagine how you could pull that through from on end to the other as there are turns that I cannot imagine a smooth glide through. It may work if I were to relplace the inside cable and not the black plastic rubber sheath around it but I do not think that is an option. I am now hoping that the cable is fine and all I need is the helm. The tie bar is tight at the engine.
Edited by Damon on 09/09/20 - 2:04 PM
1995 Dauntless DC 17, 1998 Johnson 115
