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Fuel Sender and tank Questions
Annie4	#1  Posted on 11/14/19 - 7:56 AM
Member Posts: 41 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/03/16	Hi All, Working on my 1986 Outrage 18. Have the 63 gallon tank pulled , sanded to bare aluminum. Filling small pits with JB Weld in preparation for Coal Tar epoxy. Questions: 1. Is a primer needed before applying coal tar epoxy or is it self priming? 2. Mechanical fuel gauge works but face is detached. I know I can order a new Rochester gauge face or a dual site gauge face which would allow an electric in dash(console) gauge. I would like to covert to a reed type sending unit but the electric units all have a 5 bolt mounting and the original Rochester fuel gauge has a 4 bolt mounting pattern. Can't seem to locate a conversion plate on the web.. https://liquidlevels.net/collections/rochester-gauges/products/rochester-gauges-6580-00164-6580-164-fuel-gauge-for-boston-whaler https://liquidlevels.net/collections/rochester-gauges/products/5713s02543p-rochester-gauges-twinsite-dial-capsule or https://liquidlevels.net/collections/rochester-gauges/products/rochester-gauges-dial-capsule-5-62-5002s00062 Thoughts?
JRP	#2  Posted on 11/14/19 - 8:10 AM
Member Posts: 755 Comments: 2 Joined: 08/29/14	Not to rain on the parade, but I would urge you to consider replacing that tank outright. You’ve gone to a good deal of effort to remove the old one, and it is likely nearing the end if its useful life. In the long run replacing rather than refurbing is often more cost effective. On the gauge, consider moving to a fuel-flow meter instead. The in-tank gauges are okay, but it’s tricky getting an accurate reading unless the boat is on its static waterline in calm waters. With a fuel-flow meter, it keeps tabs on how much fuel has been used and subtracts that from the tank capacity (or whatever original amount was input). So the reading is accurate whether on plane or in rough conditions, etc. 19 Outrage II (1992)
Annie4	#3  Posted on 11/14/19 - 11:52 AM
Member Posts: 41 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/03/16	You're Not raining on my parade.... I asked the questions... You just answered a question that I didn't ask. hehe Actually I get what you're saying and am going back and forth between replacement and repair. As an FYI, the tank surrounding foam, was bone dry. There may have been 2 tablespoons of water in the rearmost bottom of the coffin, and that may be an a heavy estimate. The white foam surround was completely dry and I really could have reused it. The black neoprene 3" wide strip in the keel is as new and will be reused. The tank is .125" thick. I held a straight edge along the side of the area that had the worst pitting, the gap between the tank and the straight edge was ~ .010-.015" ... JB Weld on clean , scuffed aluminum will fill that gap. Coal Tar Epoxy coated should last another ? years. A new 63 gallon tank will cost me X$$.. and not sure it's necessary. However, I wouldn't have it in the back of my mind that I shoulda-woulda-coulda. I have a few quotes for a new tank.... But I'll ask you guys... Who would you use and what should i expect to pay... I will say, Florida marine was lots higher than the other 2 places.
Phil T	#4  Posted on 11/14/19 - 12:09 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Bob - You are way too far from FMT. The freight charge will be the cost of the tank. I would check the board in the breezeway of Hamilton Marine in Portland for a metal fabricator. Also check with Portland Yacht. I would guesstimate a tank with the fittings and gauge would run $900-1K, not installed. Many paint the outside of the tank. Overkill if you install it without foam. 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
Annie4	#5  Posted on 11/14/19 - 12:25 PM
Member Posts: 41 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/03/16	I thought about installing without the foam. But I think I will stick with what BW did when they built it. I'll check Hamilton's. Go there weekly anyway... hehe
linwood	#6  Posted on 11/14/19 - 5:14 PM
Member Posts: 14 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/13/09	etch the tank with mag wheel cleaner( phosphoric acid), rinse with hot water and immediately prime with zinc chromate. A couple coats of rustoleum over the primer. There is message somewhere in this site or the other site that used playroom matting to secure the tank back in the boat.
reelescape1	#7  Posted on 11/15/19 - 5:35 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 68 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/12/05	Sunshine in Fla built my SeaCraft tank. I would use them again.
gchuba	#8  Posted on 11/15/19 - 9:39 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Go new tank......period. I contacted Florida Marine for a tank for my 1979 22' Revenge. Even with solo freight for one tank within 20% of local fabricators in CA. I also discovered they have 2 baffles in my tank, When the time comes I will probably go with them. They will also let you modify the specs if you like. Thinking about going a little wider for extra fuel capacity and mount similar to current standards with spacers. Nice to use a supplier with the exact duplicate.
tom blinstrub	#9  Posted on 11/15/19 - 11:30 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 369 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/14/09	gchuba, the 20' and 22' outrage tank has a lot of space on either side if you wanted a wider tank unlike the 18' hull. I worked at Whaler in the late 1980's installing tanks and floor covers. I have a 1989 Outrage 18 and the tanks is still OK. there were 3 of us that installed the tanks on 18 thru 25 models. I wonder if I installed my tank :)
gchuba	#10  Posted on 11/15/19 - 11:53 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Tom, mine is *plastic and I do not want to deal with its bottom flexing up and lack of baffle. I like the plastic but being a "grey hair" an aluminum tank would last way past my lifetime. I would be honored if you installed it. *at first I was a full supporter of the plastic tank do to its unbelievably clean interior and no corrosion but I fish commercially and need to know the true range and capacities. If only making short trips I would keep the plastic.
Annie4	#11  Posted on 11/19/19 - 5:40 AM
Member Posts: 41 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/03/16	Tom, you said: I worked at Whaler in the late 1980's installing tanks and floor covers. I have a 1989 Outrage 18 and the tanks is still OK. there were 3 of us that installed the tanks on 18 thru 25 models. I wonder if I installed my tank :) I have a question: The prints I found on line show 1/4" plywood and 3/4" plywood core for the tank coffin cover. I have removed my core and am almost ready to install the plywood. The 1st piece is 1/4" clearly. But what I removed was not 3/4" for the second piece of plywood. Were they all done the same? Is there a camber on the deck? Curious.. bc Also, my buddy will be contacting you to pick up the RPS seat soon. He has the cash for you as agreed.
Annie4	#12  Posted on 11/21/19 - 6:51 AM
Member Posts: 41 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/03/16	Update: I ordered a new tank from Luthers in RI yesterday. This one may be fine but I do not want to have to pull it again.
JRP	#13  Posted on 11/21/19 - 8:05 AM
Member Posts: 755 Comments: 2 Joined: 08/29/14	Annie4 wrote: Update: I ordered a new tank from Luthers in RI yesterday. This one may be fine but I do not want to have to pull it again. Good call. More expensive, yes, but in addition to peace of mind you also are buying better re-sale value. So you will get some return if you ever decide to sell down the road. And if you have no plans to ever sell, you will enjoy the long-term benefit of a new tank. 19 Outrage II (1992)