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17 Newport 1987 Rubrail Rivet/Screw length
WandCNewport	#1  Posted on 08/29/19 - 6:51 AM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/23/19	I acquired a 1987 17 Newport recently and purchased a new rubrail. Does anyone know the length of the rivet/screw to attach the new rubrail. Ready to start...plan to drill old rivets out, use the same hole, yet since a "blind" rivet, hard to determine the thickness of the boat rail to choose the correct aluminum rivet. Appears to be 3/16 from the head size, length needed unknown. Could to 3/4", or longer. Has anyone attempted this to provide your insight from doing? Edited by Joe Kriz on 09/09/19 - 1:08 PM
biggiefl	#2  Posted on 08/29/19 - 8:15 AM
Member Posts: 890 Comments: 4 Joined: 05/08/06	Good luck drilling out all those rivets. You can not use the old holes as you will never find them. I mark the hull with a pencil on the gunwale so know where the rivet was and do not drill near it. I do not use rivets even though they come with the OEM kit. I prefer SS screws as it is quicker and easier. Did you get the OEM rubrail specifically for the Newport as they are different(wider) than other 17's. I did not want to spend double the cost for it so what I did was I used a small section that I had from a former replacement and marked with a pencil what ragged part of the cap stuck out below the thinner rubrail, it is not much. I then had my "chalk line" and used a grinder to make it level and there fore able to use a MUCH cheaper rubrail. The rivets hold the cap to the hull as well and hence why I would not drill them out, just the head. Edited by biggiefl on 08/29/19 - 8:18 AM 24 Whalers so far....
WandCNewport	#3  Posted on 08/29/19 - 8:26 AM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/23/19	i bought the matching red rub rail with base. the base is pop riveted on, then rail goes in base. What do you mean by "cap". I assume when I drill out the rivets the base comes off...no other parts ie. CAP? I plan on testing one pop rivet, guessing on length...thus my question of anyone who has done it to provide length of pop rivet? FYI - it appears rivet needs to have a grip range of 1" as I just drilled one out and created a wire hook to measure depth of material to backside. I believe rivets were used as they wont back out and have greater strength when boat flexes.
reelescape1	#4  Posted on 08/29/19 - 9:35 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 68 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/12/05	Rivets were used on my 1988 Montauk also and appear to be 3/4' -1" long.
Blackduck	#5  Posted on 08/29/19 - 9:52 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	You can't use the old holes. Fill them with 3M 5200 and drill new ones. Rivets are 1 1/2", maybe 1 3/4". Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
biggiefl	#6  Posted on 08/29/19 - 11:16 AM
Member Posts: 890 Comments: 4 Joined: 05/08/06	The CAP is the deck that goes around your entire hull like a U. It is held on with the same rivets that hold on the rubrail. If you drill out all the rivets and don't use long enough new ones or screws your boat will fall apart....literally. As Blackduck pointed out and I also said, you cannot use the old holes unless you have some sort of Xray machine to see where they are. I would drill out the head and either grind off or ? what sticks out and leave alone, mark where they are and drill between them with either new rivets or screws which in turn will make the attachment even stronger for the cap. I have owned 3 Newports and 2 Banana hulls, I know how they are built. PS...the red rubrail is unique looking but it will fade in a short few years so keep it covered if possible. 24 Whalers so far....
WandCNewport	#7  Posted on 08/30/19 - 8:06 AM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/23/19	Thanks all. After reviewing your input....I plan on: 1. drilling out top of rivet so to remove rail base, 2. Clean any excess after base removed, 3. Filling holes with 3M 5200 4. Mark where holes were on hull so not to reuse holes, 5. Put on rail base with SS Screws #10 x 1.5" from Sue at Twin Cities Marine..sounds like a special screw from Boston Whaler with epoxy or such on end?. Screws seem may be easier than rivets. FYI - Sue said rivets are 5/8 long? 6. Then put in red rubrail in base. Questions: 1. anyone see any issue with the plan? 2. anyone have a thought about seemingly stiff rail base and making it easier to work with...heat?
biggiefl	#8  Posted on 09/09/19 - 1:11 PM
Member Posts: 890 Comments: 4 Joined: 05/08/06	Good plan! You will need 2 friends. One to hold the "base" as straight as possible in front of you and another doing the same behind you while you drill and screw it on. Let the insert sit in the sun to get warm. Use a wide screw driver or small pry bar and a rubber mallet to beat that in. It can be a pain as the "base" does not flex much. I think that rubrail does not have the inner gasket type part as there is no issue if water gets behind it due to the cap. In other words it is only a 2 piece, not a 3 like a Montauk takes. 24 Whalers so far....
WandCNewport	#9  Posted on 09/09/19 - 1:30 PM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/23/19	Final Question as I’m seeing varying responses reagarding fasteners. For those that have actually replaced the rubrail (base and insert) on a Newport please. Thanks in advance. Ready to start putting on the new base and I’m getting concerned if the fastener is correct. Screws vs Rivets??? Note rivets were used in base previously. I have #10 1.5” SS screws, flathead/ countersink with epoxy on threads, self taping from Sue at twin cities marine. This means you need no drilling but need to countersink the the surface hole in the base to accomdate the countersink screw head. I keep reading about people who used rivets. Before I begin attaching base...is the use of the screws OK? Or should I go to 5/8 rivets as also suggested option from Sue? Thanks to anyone who has done this on a Newport.
Acseatsri	#10  Posted on 09/10/19 - 1:19 PM
Member Posts: 61 Comments: 0 Joined: 04/05/15	I used 3/16 x 5/8 long rivets on a 1982 Montauk this spring and they work great . I like rivets because they grip the entire circumference of the hole, no sharp edges to cut and weaken the fiberglass around the hole, especially when working against a dock. I believe that was the reason they used rivets and not screws. If you do use screws, it will be difficult to get the countersink concentric to the hole. It needs to be near flush to get the insert to fit in properly, so if you go this route, make sure to use a combination drill/countersinking bit. Will also be a lot easier if you have 3-4 bar clamps to clamp it in place while drilling and riveting, heat gun helps a lot going around the corners of the bow. I clamp on both sides of the rivet and clamp it down to the top of the gunwale with another clamp. If you do use rivets, it's important to hold the head of the rivet firmly against the rail when you set them, otherwise you could have a gap between the boat and rail. Edited by Acseatsri on 09/10/19 - 1:31 PM
action	#11  Posted on 09/10/19 - 3:09 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	When we did my 1988 Montauk in the spring, I used the rivets that came with the kit from Sue and bought some extras. At a suggestion here, I marked the gunwales. I borrowed a pneumatic rivet gun which was a big help for setting all of those rivets. I think they are pretty cheap on Harbor Freight also.
gchuba	#12  Posted on 09/10/19 - 4:02 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	I did the rub rail on my 22' 1979 Revenge. A member once referred that the channel receiver was like working with "coiled concrete". I agree. The receiver piece is pre drilled for the rivets or screws (I prefer screws for installing). It should be a little longer than the original so you can "dry place" to make sure the new installation is staggered. I filled my holes with Splash Zone because they are hidden by the rub rail. I recommend leaving the receiver piece a little long and start installing. I went from the stern to the bow because I have a 90 degree miter cut for a short 6" piece. I was going to have my receiver continuous around the bow but Tom Clark (an earlier very talented advisor with this club) said to leave a seem at the front. I would assume for expansion and contraction. So I started at the stern....worked my way to the bow.....cut in place at the bow joint. That channel is tough, I left it in place for a week with some clamps and such because it had memory from the coil. Helped straighten it a bit before installing Good luck Edited by gchuba on 09/10/19 - 4:42 PM