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Bow eye removal/repair?
Mallard1100
#1 Print Post
Posted on 06/09/18 - 11:58 AM
Member

Posts: 49
Comments: 1
Joined: 03/24/16

Hi gents, I was trolling yesterday and noticed some water leaking out of the bow compartment drain on my 1974 Montauk. Upon further inspection I noticed water was coming in from around the base of the bow eye hook from within the bow compartment. The bow eye itself is solid on the outside with no movement, but there are some gaps on the perimeter where I guess the water is being pushed in from. Any tips on removal? I would assume rebed and installed with 4200/5200? Should I competely remove and reinstall/rebed or seal from the outside perimeter of the eye with 5200?


(please use the full 4 digit year per the guideline #1 at the top of this page)


Edited by Joe Kriz on 06/09/18 - 12:10 PM
 
Mallard1100
#2 Print Post
Posted on 06/10/18 - 11:37 AM
Member

Posts: 49
Comments: 1
Joined: 03/24/16

Never mind gents. I should be all good. I found and researched some old threads and know what to do. I think my only issue will be breaking loose the lifting eye from inside the bow locker. Hopefully I can get creative and get some decent torque on it after I soak it in kroil or pb blaster. I think that will be my biggest challenge.

 
gchuba
#3 Print Post
Posted on 06/11/18 - 7:54 AM
Member

Posts: 1675
Comments: 0
Joined: 03/31/13

I found TRI-FLOW with teflon to be my secret thread loosener.

 
Mallard1100
#4 Print Post
Posted on 06/11/18 - 3:31 PM
Member

Posts: 49
Comments: 1
Joined: 03/24/16

UPDATE. For those doing this repair as it seems like a common one, I found quite a few resources to remove the lifting eye but not much about removing it on older hulls like my 74 where the eye is inside the bottom of the anchor locker. Luckily I found one older thread where the gentleman used a 2 inch socket, breaker bar and appropriate length extension. The 2 inch socket fit perfectly over the lifting eye and I had it removed in no time after soaking in a penetrating compound. This tip proved very crucial as I couldn't imagine any other way to get any kind of real torque on it so deep in the locker while in an angled/ tapered position.

 
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